n 


OR, 


A  PEEP  AT  THE  AZTECS, 


ONE  WHO  HAS  SEEN  THEM. 


2d    EDITION, 
WITH    MAP    AND    ILLUSTRATIONS 


NEW    YORK: 

CHARLES     B.     NORTON. 

1854. 


TO 
JOtlN  L.  STEPHENS,  Esa., 

This  little  volume 

la 

Most  respectfully  dedicated, 
As  a  slight  expression  of  the  esteem  and 

Admiration  of  one 
Who  would  be  his  emulator  in 
Antiquarian  Researches. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


INTRODUCTION 


PART    FIRST. 


KIND  READER  : — 

In  thus  presenting  himself  to  your  notice, 
for  the  first  time,  the  author  begs  leave  to  state, — 
merely  for  his  own  interest, — that  the  substance 
of  the  following  pages  was  not  originally  written 
with  the  intention  of  being  published,  but  was 
comprised  in  a  journal,  kept  for  the  amusement 
of  his  family  and  a  few  very  intimate  friends. 
But  during  a  visit,  recently  made  to  the  city  of 
New  York,  several  works,  of  a  similar  character 
to  that  which  is  now  given  up  for  inspection,  were 
placed  in  his  hands,  and,  on  reading  them,  it 
appeared  to  him  that  the  latter  part  of  his  travel- 
ling journal  might,  with  but  little  trouble,  be 
altered  into  a  book,  which,  in  its  singularity, 


might  equal,  and,  possibly,  in  its  truth,  excel, 
those  with  which  he  had  met.  Persuaded  of  this, 
he  consulted  the  few  who  had  read  his  narrative, 
and,  fortified  by  their  unanimous  advice  to  have 
it  exposed  to  the  censorship  of  the  public^  he 
commenced  his  pleasant  task  of  reducing  it  from 
its  voluminous  dimensions,  to  the  size  in  which  it 
now  makes  its  appearance. 

As  to  the  truth  of  the  work  presented  to  you, 
the  author  will  vouch  for  every  word,  although  he 
has  not  sufficient  vanity  to  let  you  read  it  without 
stating  that  he  does  not  pretend  to  be  anything 
like  a  good  writer ;  and  that  his  production  is  not 
given  as  an  artistic  performance,  but  as  a  plain 
and  concise  statement  of  facts, — of  things  that  if 
disbelieved  now,  will  soon  be  verified  by  future 
travellers.  Bruce's  great  discoveries  in  Abyssi- 
nia were  laughed  at  and  scorned,  by  even  the 
learned  of  the  world,  as  the  romantic  effusions  of 
a  traveller  who  wished  to  ascertain  how  much  the 
stay-at-homes  could  be  fooled  into  crediting.  This 
simple  narrative  merely  tests  and  confirms  the 
truth  of  the  traditions  current  among  the  Quich- 
uas  of  Peru,  and  may  also  be  ridiculed  and 
derided ; — not  that  the  author  compares  himself 
to  James  Bruce,  for  the  orbit  of  the  last  is  entirely 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  former's  vision,  though 
not  of  his  ambition. 


PREFACE.  Ill 

The  discovery, — if  he  may  so  term  it, — that  is 
narrated  in  the  following  pages  will  at  least  afford 
a  solid  foundation  for  men, — more  learned  than 
himself, — to  erect  an  imperishable  edifice  upon. 

The  author  finds  it  exceedingly  difficult  to 
inform  the  reader  in  what  style  the  present  com- 
position is  written,  it  being  partly  in  the  form  of 
a  narrative,  and  partly  taken,  verbatim,  from  the 
journal ;  but  if  this  curious  compound  fails  to  give 
satisfaction,  he  believes  that,  at  least,  it  is  "  some- 
thing new." 

Now,  considerate  peruser,  your  most  humble 
servitor  must  confess  that  he  has  a  particular  dis- 
like of  those  works,  which  are  what  is  usually 
termed  "spun  out,"  and,  in  consequence,  he  has 
done  his  best  not  to  be  prolix.  In  carrying  out 
this  purpose  it  is  not  at  all  improbable  but  that 
he  has  fallen  over  the  other  side  of  the  fence, 
and  been  entirely  too  concise.  However  that 
may  be,  whether  his  book  is  good,  bad  or  indiffer- 
ent, he  presents  it  to  you,  leaving  it  to  your  bet- 
ter judgment  to  decide,  requesting  permission,  at 
the  same  time,  to  sign  himself,  in  advance, 

Gentle  reader,   your  most   obliged  and 
obedient  servant, 

A.  R.  MlDDLETOUN  PAYNE. 
Philadelphia,  August  2<M,  1849. 


CONTENTS. 


PART  FIRST. 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Start,  .  .  .  .  .13 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Voyage. — Arrival  at  Para. — Cause  of  the  Expedi- 
tion.— A  Meeting  on  the  Banks  of  the  Dead  Sea. — 
Object  of  the  Expedition,  .  .  .  .18 

CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  from  Para. — Character  of  Baggage. — The  Rio 
Tapajos. — A  Meeting  in  the  Wilderness,  .  .  25 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Navigation  of  the  lower  Tapajos. — Aground. — The 
Rio  Arinos. — Povoacao. — The  Beginning  of  the  Journey,  31 

CHAPTER  V. 

A  Brazilian  Forest.' — A  Curiosity. — A  Lion  monkey. — 
The  Hills.— An  Ascent.— A  Supper  in  the  dark.  .  37 

CHAPTER  VI. 

First  View  of  the  Valley. — Encounter  on  the  descent. — 
The  Cura9aofOcopaltepec,  .  .  .  .44 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  Quauhtitlan. — Ocopal. — Colucatl. — The 
Mexican  Character  of  Names. — Night  View  from  the 
Fortress,  .  .  .  .  .  .52 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

A  mistake. — First  View  of  the  Capital. — Reception  at  the 
Gates,  .......  58 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  the  Park  and  Palace,  .  .  .64 

CHAPTER  X. 

Dinner. — A  Promenade. — The  Court  of  Justice. — Tian- 
guez— The  Close  of  the  first  day,  .  .  .72 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Audience. — Exchange  of  presents. — An  Afternoon's 
Ramble  in  Search  of  Sights.— The  Streets,  .  .81 

CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Tianguez.— Visit  from  the  Inca.— A  proposed  Change 
of  Quarters. — A  Walk  to  see  the  Premises. — A  Remove.  90 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  'Stall.' — Inca's  Visit. — The  Incaress. — Moderate 
Prices. — Business.— Sunday.  .  .  .  .98 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

4 

Selling  Out. — The  Chronology  of  Geral. — Another  Re- 
move,  .  .  .  .  .  .  ,104 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  New  Calendar. — A  visit  to  an  Useful  Institution. — 
A  Present,  .  .  .  .  .  .113 


CONTENTS.  xi 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  Council  House. — Tribunal  of  Music,  .  .119 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

An  Excursion.— The  Upper  Lake. — Patapalanamit. — 
Izlinapan. — Pocotatl. — Return  toGeral. — Temple  of  the 
Sun, 127 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A  Visit  to  the  Royal  Library. — An  Invitation. — The  Pa- 
lace of  the  Manitepec. — An  Incident,  .  .135 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Tezcutlipotenango. — Otompan. — Mixocolo. — The  Covered 
Market  Place.— Poanango,  .  .  .  .143 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Atalatl.— Xaromba.— A  Visit  to  the  Salt  Mines.— A  Dan- 
gerous  Piece  of  Fun.  .  .  .  .  .151 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Tcman. — The  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Panonco. — Gopal. — 
The  Temple  on  the  Atolatepec.— Tontam.— Edarallaqua,  1 60 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Magazines  of  the  Edarallaquatepec. — The  Fortress 
of  Jacoqulatl. — Acaposinga,  .  .  .  .168 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Audience  Chamber. — Temple  of  the  Moon. — Depar- 
ture from  Acaposinga. — The  Canoa. — Gymnasium,       .     174 
s 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  Year's  Day.— The  Empress's  Throne  Room.— Her 
Costume. — Farewell  Audience. — Presents. — Departure 
from  the  Valley,  .  .  .  .  182 


I  - 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

What  occurred  on  the  route  from  the  Sierra  to  Povoacao. — 
A  Little  too  Late. — Povoacao  to  Angejo. — Conclusion,  .     189 

APPENDIX.— No.  1. 

The    Tianguez,  (Chap.    X.);    and  Gymnasium,   (Chap. 
XXIII.),  .  .  .  .  .  .195 

APPENDIX.— No.  2. 

The  New  Calendar,  (Chapter  XVII.)        .  .  .198 

APPENDIX.— No.  3.  200 

INTRODUCTION  TO  SUPPLEMENT.  205 

PART  SECOND. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Government,  Rerenue,  Military  and  Civil  Institutions,  etc.    208 

CHAPTER  II. 

Modes  of  Communication,  .  .  .    220 

CHAPTER  III. 

Buildings :— Materials,  Style,  Solidity,  &c.,          .  .    230 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Domestic  Manners  and  Customs,  ....    240 

CHAPTER  V. 

Pastoral  Life,         .  .  .    25G 


PART  FIRST. 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Start. 

ON  Monday,  August  16th  1847  I  left  the 
Charleston  Hotel  in  Meeting  Street,  in  company 
with  Edward  Laury  Grey  Esq, — who  was  to  be 
my  companion  throughout  my  travels, — for  the 
large  brig  Augusta,  of  Baltimore,  bound  for  Rio 
Janeiro  but  which  was  to  drop  us  at  Para. 

I  had  not  yet  seen  the  accommodations  of  the 
vessel  as  my  friend  Grey  had  arranged  all  the 
preliminaries  without  troubling  me,  for  which  I 
was  very  thankful, — and  full  of  confidence  in  his 
talents  for  getting  ready  the l  fixings*  necessary  for 
such  a  voyage,  I  ascended  the  side,  and  stepped 
or  rather  stumbled  on  board ;  for  the  fact  of  the 
taffrail's  being  considerably  above  the  level  of  the 
deck,  entirely  escaping  my  memory,  I  placed  one 
foot  on  the  top  of  the  former  and  bringing  my 
other  one  up  too  quickly,  I  lost  my  balance,  and 
thinking  it  preferable  to  fall  on  a  barrel  of  pickled 
pork  than  into  the  Cooper  River,  made  a  plunge 
forward,  and  the  next  second  was  sprawling  on 

2 


14  THE  START. 

the  top  of  the  selected  pedestal.  However  I  soon 
*  righted  myself  as  the  sailors  would  say,  and  get- 
ting into  a  more  dignified  position,  looked  around 
me. 

Confusion  worse  confounded  !  The  brig  was 
taking  in  the  fag  end  of  the  provisions  for  the 
voyage,  and  the  men  were  rolling  barrel  on  barrel 
of  salt  beef,  pork,  butter,  and  various  other  un- 
palatable edibles,  so  close  to  the  extremities  of 
our  patent  leathers,  that  Grey  and  I  determined 
to  evacuate  this  provisional  department,  and  de- 
scended into  the  lower  regions,  that  I  might  in- 
spect the  lodgings, — I  positively  have  not,  now,  the 
assurance  to  call  them  £  accommodations,' — which 
had  been  prepared  for  us. 

My  stateroom  was  the  first  visited. 

We  both  got  in,  somehow ;  and  it  is  but  fair 
that  I  should  tell  of  the  state  in  which  it  was. 
The  two  berths  were  without  mattresses,  pillows, 
sheets,  or  coverlid,  being  nothing  but  the  slats  on 
which  all  the  above  enumerated  comforts  are 
usually  placed ;  two  chairs  in  a  very  dilapidated 
plight  comprised  the  sitting  down  conveniences. 
One  of  these  was  frightfully  near  being  seatless, 
but  this  I  subsequently  remedied  by  tacking  a  stout 
India  silk  handkerchief  over  the  frame, — while 
the  other  which  was  tetertortering  on  two  legs, 
fortunately  diagonally  opposite  each  other,  I  ren- 


OUR  STATEROOMS.  15 

dered  available  bv  snrvnorting  one  of  the  vacated 
corners  on  the  ledge  of  the  lower  berth,  and  prop- 
ping up  the  other  by  an  apparatus  consisting  of 
the  wall,  a  carpet  bag,  and  a  portable  fishing  rod ; 
when  thus  -arranged  it  could  be  used,  but  when 
seated  upon  it,  the  occupant  had  to  be  on  the 
look  out,  for  at  best  it  was  but  a  precarious  situa- 
tion. 

The  washstand  was  a  fixture  in  the  shape  of  a 
quarter  segment  of  a  circle,  fastened  in  the  corner 
behind  the  door,  considerably  interfering  with 
the  opening  propensities  of  the  latter,  and  forc- 
ing the  person  seeking  an  entrance,  to  slide  in 
sideways,  much  to  the  danger  of  coat-tails  from 
a  preposterously  large  catch,  set  into  the  door- 
post. 

Ned's  stateroom  was  far  better  furnished  than 
mine,  but  was  much  less  clean,  so  leaving  him  to 
put  to  rights  his  vast  chamber,  I  started  on  a  tour 
of  inspection  in  the  centre  cabin,  or  "saloon," 
to  call  it  by  the  name  with  which  it  was  compli- 
mented by  the  master  of  the  brig. 

Having  come  out  of  a  stateroom,  it  had  really 
an  imposing  appearance,  and  looked  to  me  like 
quite  a  sizeable  apartment,  but  in  fact  it  was  the 
smallest  one  I  had  ever  seen,  in  a  vessel  of  the 
Augusta's  dimensions.  Along  the  middle  of  it 
was  a  stationary  mahogany  dining,  breakfasting 


16  THE  START. 

and  suppering  table,  all  in  one,  which .  was 
amazingly  far  from  clean.  All  around  this  fixture 
were  backless  benches,  also  elected  to  the  deck 
and  at  a  most  uncomfortable  distance  from  the 
eating  board,  so  arranged,  perchance,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  "  notion"  that,  if  a  sudden  lurch 
should  occur  while  the  passengers  were  at  meals, 
the  contents  of  their  plates,  and  the  condiments 
waiting  to  go  on  them,  could  slip  on  the  floor 
between  the  edge  of  the  table  and  the  knees  of 
the  eaters.  If  this  had  been  the  intention, 
although  it  might  have  answered  in  common 
cases,  on  an  uncommon  one  it  did  not,  as  I  dis- 
covered, to  the  severe  detriment  of  a  new  pair  of 
inexpressibles. 

Over  the  centre  of  the  table  depended  a  trio  of 
swinging  lamps,  vi  ich  being  of  a  construction  un- 
suited  for  ships,  and  burning  oil  of  the  odoriferous 
kind,  had  a  very  singular  fancy,  when  filled  and 
lit  at  supper,  of  sprinkling  everything  on  the 
table  that  was  within  the  range  of  their  devas- 
tating showers. 

On  each  side  of  the  'saloon,'  were  several 
doors  leading  into  the  staterooms,  and  at  the  end, 
a  pair  of  folding  doors  admitted  me  to  the  private 
or  ladies'  cabin,  which,  for  a  wonder,  was  scrupu- 
lously clean  and  neat,  forming,  as  may  be  imagin- 


THE  START.  IT 

ed  rather  a  strong  contrast  with  what  I  had  pre- 
viously seen. 

Having  fully  explored  the  premises  I  returned 
to  Grey,  and  together  we  ascended  the  companion 
way  to  take  a  last  glimpse  at  Charleston.  As  we 
stepped  on  deck,  a  tug — which  had  been  getting 
up  steam  ever  since  we  had  come  on  board — let 
go  her  ropes,  and  the  Augusta,  being  fastened  to 
her,  in  five  minutes  we  had  started  fairly  on  our 
long  tour. 


18 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  Voyage. — Arrival  at  Para. — Cause  of  the  Expedition. — A 
Meeting  on  the  Banks  of  the  Dead  Sea. — Object  of  the  Ex- 
pedition. 

IF  I  wished  I  could  make  a  volume  of  our  voy- 
age alone,  but  as  others  have  written  on  that 
subject  numberless  times,  far  better  than  I  ever 
hope  to,  and  as  I  do  not  wish  to  be  long  from  the 
object  of  our  tour  and  this  book,  I  will  give  but 
a  short  account  of  my  uncomfortablenesses.  On 
the  first  night  out  I  obtained  a  hammock,  and 
had  it  swung  in  the  ladies'  cabin,  which  was  un- 
occupied, where  I  slept  very  pleasantly  every 
succeeding  night,  until  our  arrival  at  Havana  on 
the  Sunday  morning  following  our  departure. 
At  this  beautiful  and  musical  capital,  the  Augusta 
remained  until  high  tide  on  Tuesday  morning, 
when,  having  received  two  feminine  passengers 
among  the  several  that  came  on  board,  I  was 
obliged  to  retire  to  my  proper  stateroom  when  we 
sailed.  In  order  to  occupy  my  berth,  my  camp 
bedding  had  to  be  rummaged  up  from  among  the 
numerous  bales  of  goods  and  packing  cases 


THE  VOYAGE.  19 

directed  to  "Messrs.  Payne  and  Grey,  Para." 
However,  it  was  found  without  much  difficulty, 
and  on  Tuesday  night  I  took  up  my  quarters  in 
the  upper-berth,  among  the  cockroaches,  who  ex- 
pressed their  disapprobation  of  my  invasion  of 
their  territories  by  running  over  my  hands  and 
face  in  the  most  obstreperous  manner.  I  got  to 
sleep  at  last  and  slept  pretty  well  until  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  an  unexpected  and 
very  severe  sea  struck  the  brig,  tossing  me  from 
my  elevated  position  to  the  floor,  where  I  remained 
a  few  moments,  covered  with  three  carpet  bags, 
the  bedding,  chairs,  clothes,  &c.,  &c.  I  got  up, 
as  soon  as  I  could  extricate  myself,  a  good  deal 
bruised,  and  fully  recognizing  the  truth,  "  He  that 
exalteth  himself,  shall  be  abased."  I  made  up 
my  bed  in  the  lower  berth  and  slept  there  every 
succeeding  night  that  I  was  on  board. 

Now  Grey  and  I  are  two  of  those  fortunate 
few  who  never  suffer  from  sea-sickness,  and  it  was 
owing  to  this  circumstance  that  we  became  ac- 
quainted with  each  other,  which  occurred  in  1834, 
on  board  of  an  English  ship  on  a  voyage  from 
Great  Britain  to  St.  Petersburg,  on  which  occa- 
sion every  soul,  save  us  two,  was  down  with  it. 
Ned  seeing  that  I  was  the  only  person  in  the 
cabin  well  enough  to  talk,  introduced  himself,  and 
we  commenced  conversing.  Since  then  we  never 


20  ARRIVAL  AT  PARA. 

went  on  any  travels  without  being  together.  But 
if  we  were  exempted,  the  servants  which  accom- 
panied us  on  the  present  occasion,  were  not,  all 
three  of  them  being  incapacitated  from  talking 
or  walking. 

The  brig  anchored  off  'the  flourishing  town 
of  Para,' — as  the  geographies  have  it, — on  the 
morning  of  Wednesday,  September  the  15th, 
after  a  moderately  quick  pa  wage  of  twenty-two 
days  from  Cuba.  The  sailors  immediately  com- 
menced landing  our  merchandize  and  baggage. 

The  moon  shone  brightly  over  the  wide  harbor, 
silvering  its  placid  waters  as  Ned  and  I  bade 
adieu  to  some  of  our  fellow-passengers,  who  had 
come  on  shore,  immediately  on  the  arrival -of  the 
Augusta,  in  the  morning,  to  spend  a  day  t  in 
town.'  They  were  rowed  off  in  one  of  the  boats 
that  had  brought  the  last  of  our  effects,  and  in  a 
few  moments  after  they  got  on  board,  the  anchor 
was  weighed,  and  the  'Brig  Augusta,  of  Balti- 
more,' set  sail  for  Rio  Janeiro. 

It  is  now  time  that  the  object  of  our  expedition 
should  be  made  known,  and  to  do  this  it  is  neces- 
sary to  learn,  first,  the  cause,  for  which  I  must  go 
back  to  the  winter  of  1845-6,  when  in  company 
with  Mr.  Grey,  I  was  travelling  in  Syria. 

It  was  early  in  the  evening  of  the  first  Satur- 
day in  the  February  of  the  latter  year,  that  we 


CAUSE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  21 

pitched  our  tents  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Asphal- 
tites,  the  once  Yale  of  Siddim. 

We  had  hardly  done  so,  when  one  of  the 
natives,  attached  to  our  little  party,  came  to  my 
tent  and  said  that  another  American  gentleman 
was  at  an  encampment  half  a  league  further 
south.  On  hearing  this  both  Grey  and  I  remount- 
ed our  horses,  regardless  of  the  fatigue  we  had 
endured  from  a  long  day's  journey,  and  galloped 
to  the  designated  spot.  Here  we  found  an  Amer- 
ican^ certainly,  but  he  was  a  native  of  Lima,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  speak  Spanish,  instead  of 
English,  as  we  had  hoped  to  be  able  to  do. 
Nevertheless,  we  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening, 
and,  during  it,  the  conversation  naturally  turned 
upon  travellers,  thence  to  antiquarian  researches, 
and,  from  this,  to  lost  nations.  Grey  spoke  of 
the  ancient  Peruvians  and  Mexicans,  of  their 
descendants'  degeneracy,  in  having  lost  the  arts 
and  sciences  of  their  ancestors,  and  of  the  gene- 
rally received  opinion  that  these  two  monarchies 
were  ignorant  of  one  another's  existence.  "  It  is 
true,"  here  said  the  gentleman  of  Lima,  "  that 
such  is  the  common  opinion,  but  it  is  a  mistaken 
one.  The  two  nations  of  which  you  spoke,  sir, 
not  only  know  the  situation,  resources,  civiliza- 
tion and  government  of  each  other's  territory,  but 
actually  exchanged  visits,  if  I  may  believe  a  hiero- 


2Z  CAUSE  OF 

glyphical  manuscript  which  I  found,  accidentally, 
among  the  wrecks  of  the  once  magnificent  library 
of  the  Museum,  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  What  I 
have  already  said,  perhaps,  astonishes  you,  but 
there  is  more  to  be  told,  which  I  learnt  from  the 
same  manuscript.  When  Cortes,  for  the  second 
time,  entered  the  valley  of  Tenochtitlan,  many  of 
the  inhabitants,  contrary  to  the  express  com- 
mands of  Guatemotzin,  fled  from  their  homes,  and, 
penetrating  through  the  territories  of  the  Guate- 
malan kingdoms,  entered, — after  much  fatigue, 
and  much  reduced  in  number, — the  government 
of  the  Incas,  taking  up  their  residence  in  Cuzco. 
So  far  goes  the  scroll,  but  I  can  tell  still  more 
from  traditions  current  among  the  Quichuas. 
The  expatriated  Mexicans  had  scarcely  settled 
themselves  in  the  above  named  city,  when  Pizarro 
and  his  followers,  having  murdered  Atahuallpa, 
and  Toparca  having  died,  entered  the  capital, 
naming  Manca  as  Inca.  Notwithstanding  their 
submission  to  the  invaders,  all  the  Peruvians  were 
not  satisfied  with  this  rapid  change  of  rulers,  and 
many  of  them,  together  with  the  Mexicans,  broke 
into  the  palace  of  the  lately  murdered  Inca, 
(Atahuallpa)  where  his  wives  and  children  were 
still  wailing  at  his  death.  The  patriots  and  their 
friends,  persuaded  several  of  these  disconsolate 
beings  to  accompany  them,  and  this  little  party 


THE  EXPEDITION.  23 

set  out  to  found  an  Incalate  in  the, — to  them, — 
wilderness  of  Brazil. 

"  Five  years  since,"  continued  the  narrator, 
"  I  was  spending  a  few  weeks  in  the  town  of 
Villa  Bella,  near  the  source  of  the  Rio  Guapore, 
and  on  one  occasion,  being  exceedingly  fond  of 
excursions  and  rambling  walks,  I  accompanied  a 
few  friends  to  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Paricis,  to 
stay  two  or  three  days  there.  On  the  second  day 
we  all  set  off,  scrambling  up  the  mountains.  Most 
of  the  party  gave  out  half  way  up,  and  when  I 
got  near  the  top,  I  found  that  I  was  alone.  How- 
ever, I  persevered  and  reached  the  summit. 
Before  me  was  spread  the  valley  of  the  Incas  ! 
As  I  commenced  descending  towards  the  thickly 
built  cities  below  me,  my  progress  was  arrested 
by  several  men,  wearing  the  dress  ascribed  to  the 
ancient  Peruvians, — who  sprung  out  of  a  covert, 
and  obliged  me  to  retrace  my  steps,  telling  me 
in  the  Aucaquis  language,  whicn  I  fortunately 
understood,  that  no  armed  stranger,  which  I 
unhappily  chanced  to  be, — was  admitted  into 
their  valley,  which  they  call  Geral.*  The  fol- 
lowing day  our  party  returned  to  Villa  Bella, 

*  The  reader  will  notice  that  on  some  maps  the  Sierra  is 
named  the  Geral  Mountains.  It  is,  therefore,  probable  that  the 
author  and  his  friend  were  not  the  first  to  penetrate  this  singular 
territory. 


24 


and  you,  gentlemen,  are  the  first  persons  who 
have  ever  heard  of  my  adventure,  and  its  vexati- 
ous termination." 

This ,  speech  was  the  cause  of  our  expedition, 
and  the  object  of  it  was  to  gain  an  entrance  into 
this  unvisited,  and  nearly  unknown,  valley.  To 
effect  this  we  had  decided  upon  assuming  the 
character  of  merchants,  and  in  this,  the  most 
peaceful  guise  we  knew  of,  we  started  for  the 
Geral-milco.* 

*  This  being  the  first  time  that  the  title  of  our  volume  is 
introduced,  we  take  the  opportunity  of  explaining  thai  *  JtftZco' 
is  an  Aztecan  word,  signify  ing  Valley. 


25 


CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  from  Para. — Character  of  Baggage. — The  Rio 
Tapajos. — A  Meeting  in  the  Wilderness. 

WE  remained  at  Para  until  Saturday  morning, 
September  18th,  when  we  embarked  on  board  of 
a  small  schooner,  called  the  '  St.  Joao,'  bound 
for  the  town  of  Santarem,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Tapajos  and  Amazon,  where  we  intended  to  pro- 
cure a  boat  of  some  kind  or  other,  to  take  us 
up  the  former  river  as  far  as  we  wanted  to  go, 
which  I  well  knew  was  further  than  any  boat  at 
Para  had  ever  gone.  The  baggage  had  been 
placed  on  board  the  schooner  on  Thursday,  and 
it  is  but  fair  that  I  should  tell  of  what  that  bag- 
gage was  composed. 

Our  character  of  merchants  was  not  so  much 
assumed  as  we  would  have  liked  it  to  have  been, 
as  neither  Ned  nor  I  was,  at  that  time,  well 
enough  off  in  the  goods  of  this  world  to  travel 
such  a  distance  without  carrying  a  '  venture'  along 
with  us.  The  c  venture'  on  this  occasion  was  of 
some  value,  as  several  real  merchants,  of  our 
acquaintance,  had  kindly  interested  themselves 


26  SANTAREM. 

in  our  welfare,  by  consigning  all  sorts  of  things 
to  us  on  commission,  such  as  cutlery,  hardware, 
tea,  cooking  utensils,  a  few  agricultural  imple- 
ments, silks,  satins,  velvets,  &c.,  being  such  arti- 
cles as  would  sell  to  great  advantage  in  Lima, 
Quito,  or  any  of  the  cities  on  the  Pacific  side  of 
the  Andes,  should  we  fail  in  obtaining  admission 
to  the  valley.  We  had,  independently  of  the 
above,  some  really  valuable  articles  which  Ned 
and  I  had  brought  from  Asia  in  1842 ;  and  for 
our  own  use  during  the  travels,  we  carried  edibles 
to  some  amount,  and  all  of  the  best  quality.  Our 
personal  baggage  was  reduced  to  its  lowest  limits, 
and  thus  provided  we  sailed  on  the  Amazon,  em- 
ploying the  time  in  perfecting  ourselves  in  that 
most  comprehensive  language — the  Amaquis,  with 
which  we  had  been  previously  acquainted  in  a 
slight  degree. 

About  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
Thursday  following  our  departure  from  Para,  we 
arrived  at  the  unaccountably  dirty  town  of  Santa- 
rem,  in  front  of  which  were  a  great  many  inde- 
scribable conveyances  intended  to  float  on  the 
river.  Immediately  upon  leaving  the  '  St.  Joao,' 
we  pounced  upon  one  of  these,  which  was  the 
only  specimen,  that  we  saw,  that  had  the  slight- 
est appearance  of  being  able  to  stand  upright, 
and  engaged  it  forthwith. 


RIO  TAPAJOS.  27 

We  got  off  at  five  o'clock  the  next  morning, 
and,  considering  the  singular  form  of  our  convey- 
ance, we  travelled  pretty  rapidly  over  the  surface 
of  the  beautiful  Rio  Tapajos.  The  wind  contin- 
ued in  our  favour  all  day,  and  about  seven  in  the 
evening  we  passed  the  last  settlement  of  any  size 
on  the  river, — that  is  to  say,  the  village  of  Aldea 
de  Mondrucus, — and  at  dark  entered  the  verge  of 
the  great  interior  forest  of  Brazil,  but  it  was  too 
late  to  see  anything  distinctly.  Our  captain  told 
us  that  we  should  have  enough  of  the  woods 
before  we  reached  Povoacao,  as  there  was  nothing 
else  all  the  way,  if  we  excepted  a  family  or  two, 
that  had  cut  down  a  few  trees,  and  built  a  house 
on  the  banks  of  the  river, — we  consequently  rolled 
ourselves  up  in  our  cloaks  and  turned  the  after 
deck  into  a  bed,  where, — or  on  which, — we  slept 
soundly  until  a  little  before  sunrise,  when  the 
captain  awoke  us,  and  we  went  to  the  side  of  the 
boat  to  see  all  that  was  to  be  seen,  which  was  not 
much,  as  it  was  nearly  as  dark  as  pitch,  but  we 
discovered  that  our  vessel  was  at  a  stand  still. 

In  a  few  moments  the  purple  clouds,  that  herald 
the  rising  of  the  sun,  appeared  above  the  horizon, 
and,  rapidly  ascending  to  the  zenith,  were  closely 
followed  by  others,  of  various  shades  of  pink,  and 
at  last  the  sudden  appearance  of  a  globe  of  intense 
light,  warned  us  of  the  day's  having  fairly  com- 


28  A  MEETING  IN 

menced.  We  now  found  that  our  craft  had 
stopped  before  what,  in  our  Western  states,  would 
be  called  a  '  clearing,'  where  a  hut  or  two,  built 
of  logs,  proclaimed  the  residence  of  man,  in  a 
more  civilized  state  than  is  usually  found  in  the 
.interior  of  Brazil. 

Almost  with  the  sun,  a  tall,  gawky  looking 
genius  came  out  of  one  of  the  cabins  with  a  large 
package  of  skins  in  his  hands.  "  That  is,  unmis- 
takably, a  Yankee,"  I  whispered  to  Ned;  "try 
him  when  he  comes  up."  So,  when  the  "squat- 
ter" got  to  the  side  of  the  boat  and  had,  in  horri- 
bly bad  Spanish,  consigned  his  bundle  to  the  cap- 
tain, that  it  might  be  taken  to  Povoacao,  Grey 
called  out,  in  English, 

"  Hollo,  there !  I  guess  you're  a  Yankee,  aint 
you  ?" 

The  poor  fellow  looked  quite  surprised  at  being 
addressed  in  his  native  idiom,  and  stared  at  us 
most  unmercifully,  replying: — "Waal,  stranger, 
I  reckon  I  come  from  the  Bay  state." 

"How  did  you  get  into  this  outlandish  place?" 
was  Ned's  next  query,  and  the  squatter  told  us 
his  long  and  miserable  tale,  which  I  will  condense 
into  the  smallest  space.  Going  on  board  of  a 
whaling  ship,  after  a  long  and  disastrous  voyage, 
the  vessel  was  wrecked  on  the  North-east  coast  of 
Australia.  With  some  of  his  ship-mates  he  set 


THE  WILDERNESS.  29 

out  to  walk  from  the  wreck  to  the  town  of  Sidney, 
where  he  and  one  other  arrived  after  much  hard- 
ship. Having  resided  in  this  settlement  for  a 
few  months,  he  at  last  joined  an  English  convict- 
ship,  which  was  to  return  to  England,  touching 
at  Rio  Janeiro,  as  a  sailor.  While  the  ship  was 
at  Rio  he  deserted,  having  been  badly  treated, 
and  hid  himself  until  it  had  departed,  when  he 
applied  to  nearly  all  the  United  States'  ships  in 
port,  none  of  which  required  his  services,  so  he 
started  alone,  on  foot  for  Para.  In  passing 
through  the  country  he  thought  it  would  be  a  fine 
place  to  settle  in.  He  got  to  Para,  and  found  a 
situation  on  board  of  a  schooner  bound  for  Nahant, 
where  he  arrived  in  safety  after  a  perilous  passage. 
The  next  spring  he  brought  out  his  family 
and  had  established  himself  where  we  had  found 
him. 

«  We  asked  him  how  he  got  on,  and  if  he  liked 
his  "location,"  to  which  he  replied:  "  Business 
is  thrivin'  in  the  skin  trade,  but  the  Injins  is 
rayther  troublesome.  As  to  the  situation,  it's 
good  enough  for  the  landway,  but  as  hot  as  ten 
thunders !" 

We  made  him  a  present  of  some  cutlery,  which 
we  knew  would  be  useful  to  a  man  in  his  sitivation, 
although  it  was  with  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  that 
we  got  him  to  overcome  his  Yankee  pride  and 


30  A  MEETING  ETC. 

receive  it,  and  after  a  long  conversation,  we  bade 
farewell.  Our  sails  were  set  and  we  once  more 
started  for  Povoacao. 

As  our  captain  had  told  us,  the  banks  of  the 
river  were  covered  with  a  thick  forest,  through 
which  the  sun  could  scarcely  penetrate  ;  there 
was  no  breeze  of  any  consequence,  and  we  had  to 
take  to  the  oars,  to  cool  ourselves. 


31 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Navigation  of  the  lower   Tapajos. — Aground. — The   Rio 
Arinos. — Povoacao. — The  Beginning  of  the  Journey. 

ON  the  second  day's  journey  we  had  noticed 
that  the  width  of  the  river  rapidly  decreased,  so 
what  was  our  astonishment,  on  awaking  on  Sun- 
day morning,  to  find  our  boat  sailing  over  an  ex- 
panse of  water,  at  least  four  miles  wide  !  It  was 
the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Azovedo,  one  of  the  largest 
tributaries  of  the  Tapajos,  and  emptying  itself 
into  the  latter  from  the  south.  About  ten  o'clock 
we  came  to  the  mouth  of  another  stream,  pouring 
its  waters  from  the  north,  and,  on  my  maps,  with- 
out a  name,  but  called  by  our  captain,  the  Rio 
Urupas.  At  noon,  or  a  very  little  after,  we 
passed  the  mouth  of  a  third  stream  from  the 
south,  named  the  Rio  Cavaiva. 

The  Tapajos  now  grew  gradually  narrower,  and 
at  the  same  time  more  shallow,  so  that  one  of  the 
six  seamen  belonging  to  our  vessel,  was  constantly 
at  the  bows  on  the  look  out  for  sand  banks,  sunken 
rocks,  and  other  enemies  to  navigation,  for  the 
lead  was  not  required  on  account  of  the  great 
transparency  of  the  water. 


32  AGROUND. 

"  Labordo  !  labordo  !  vito  !  Labordo  !  Santa 
Maria!" -suddenly  exclaimed  our  foreman,  while 
the  helmsman  endeavored  to  obey  his  order.  But 
it  was  too  late,  I  heard  the  grating  noise  of  the 
sand  beneath  the  keel  (if  it  had  one,)  and  we 
were  aground  !  The  sailors  calling  upon  all  the 
saints  in  the  calendar,  and  more  too,  seized  two 
long  stout  spars,  which  are  always  carried  by  the 
vessels  going  up  and  down  the  inland  rivers  of 
South  America,  and  with  desperate  shoves  and 
pushes,  at  length  got  our  craft  off. 

At  a  little  after  six  in  the  afternoon,  the  bows 
of  the  boat  were  turned  directly  towards  the 
eastern  shore,  and  I  imagined  that  we  were  going 
straight  aground  for  a  second  time,  as  I  could  see 
nothing  but  foliage.  Notwithstanding  appear- 
ances, nothing  of  the  kind  took  place,  for  the 
mast, — being  suddenly  deprived  of  the  sails, — 
parted  the  branches  of  the  trees,  and  in  two 
minutes  we  were  resting  quietly  in  the  centre  of 
what  we  travellers  at  first,  took  for  a  lake,  but  in 
fact  jj  was  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Arinos.  The 
continuation  of  the  river  was  invisible  from  our 
situation,  and  that  part  of  it  which  we  did  see, 
was  perfectly  circular,  entirely  surrounded  "by 
hills  of  about  fifty  feet  in  height,  thickly  wooded 
from  their  summits  to  the  very  edge  of  the  river, 
where  the  densely  foliaged  trees  swept  their 


POVOACAO.  33 

luxuriant  branches  in  the  pure,  cool,  fresh  water, 
which  flowed  silently  to  its  shallow  outlet,  the 
width  of  which  was  hidden  by  the  trees  which 
had  taken  root  in  the  damp  soil,  and  had  grown 
up,  completing  this  grand  natural  amphitheatre. 
The  little  lake, — I  must  call  it  so, — was  dotted 
over  with  small  conical  islands,  covered  with  trees, 
and  seeming  like  forests  growing  in  the  water. 

The  sails  were  again  set,  and,  with  a  light 
breeze  which  wafted  us  along,  we  darted  into  the 
Rio  Arinos. 

At  half  past  twelve  on  Monday,  we  arrived  in 
front  of  Povoacao,  further  than  which  we  could 
not  have  gone,  if  we  had  wished,  as  about  a  mile 
from  the  town  there  is  a  little  cascade,  just  high 
enough  to  prevent  navigation.  Across  the  Ari- 
nos, at  this  town,  is  thrown  a  fragile  structure, 
honoured  by  the  name  of  bridge,  but  on  which,  I 
am  not  ashamed  to  own,  I  always  felt  very  inse- 
cure and  rather  alarmed.  It  is,  or  was,  built  in 
the  following  manner.  Three  ropes  are  stretched 
between  the  banks,  and  on  these  are  lashed  narrow 
boards,  exactly  the  width  of  the  bridge  in  length, 
about  a  foot  wide,  and  placed  about  eighteen 
inches  apart.  In  1830, 1  think,  a  bridge,  similar 
to  this,  broke  in  half  during  the  periodical  rains, 
and  precipitated  several  persons  into  a  torrent 
over  which  it  had  been  cast.  This  accident  was, 


34  POVOACAO. 

it  is  said,  caused  by  the  shrinking  of  the  wet 
ropes. 

Povoacao  is,  at  the  smallest  computation,  three 
hundred  and  forty  miles  from  any  civilized  com- 
munity, and  but  little  known  on  the  Atlantic. 
Indeed,  I  doubt  very  much  if  I  could  have  found 
a  vessel,  at  Para,  whose  captain  was  acquainted 
with  its  precise  situation.  It  is,  nevertheless,  a 
settlement  of  some  size,  and  a  few  of  the  inhabit- 
ants have  immense  droves  of  horses,  mules,  and 
other  beasts  of  burden,  and  they  also  have  ex- 
tensive plantations  of  tropical  productions,  which, 
however,  are  not  sufficiently  well  cultivated  to 
prove  very  lucrative.  The  town  has  suffered 
severely  from  several  attacks  made  upon  it  by  the 
surrounding  savage  tribes,  who  appear  to  bear 
the  greatest  enmity  towards  all  new  settlers. 

Immediately  on  arriving  our  baggage  was  taken 
out  of  the  boat,  and  placed,  for  the  time  being, 
under  the  portico  of  a  house,  which,  being  desert- 
ed, we  took  the  liberty  of  entering  and  establish- 
ing as  our  head  quarters  during  our  stay.  In  the 
afternoon  I  procured  five  horses, — for  the  use  of 
ourselves  and  servants, — and  thirty  mules  to  carry 
our  merchandise  and  baggage,  which  we  spent  all 
day  Tuesday  in  dividing  into  packages  suitable 
for  a  mule's  back,  leaving  the  empty  packing  cases 


JOURNEY.  35 

in  the  house,  of  which  we  had  so  summarily  taken 
possession. 

Wednesday  morning  was  the  tug  of  war.  We 
got  up  long  before  dawn,  and,  by  torchlight,  com- 
menced loading  our  animals,  which  employed 
us  fully  until  sunrise,  when  we  took  a  slight 
breakfast,  saddled  our  horses,  mounted  them,  and 
set  out  on  our  journey. 

We  ventured  to  carry  arms  as  far  as  the  Terra 
Incognita,  if  we  were  to  find  it,  and  if  we  did  do  so 
they  were  such  as  could  easily  be  concealed,  the 
rifles  having  been  made  with  the  shortest  barrels 
consistent  with  safety.  Each  of  us,  servants 
included,  had  one  of  those  inestimable  inven- 
tions know  as  Colt's  Revolvers,  and  good  stout 
bowie  knives  were  not  omitted  in  our  accoutre- 
ments. 

Crossing  the  ticklish  bridge,  we  continued  along 
the  river's  bank  all  day  long,  passing  at  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Oru,  which  empties  itself  into  the  Arinos  from 
the  south  east,  and  at  sunset  we  encamped  for 
the  night,  on  the  edge  of  the  forest,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  two  rivers,  Sumidor  and  Flores, 
which  together  form  that  on  which  Povoacao  is 
situated. 

Our  tents  were  pitched,  the  mules  unloaded, 
and,  with  the  horses,  turned  out  to  graze.  Large 


36  JOURNEY. 

fires  were  kindled  around  .our  small  camp  to 
keep  away  the  wild  animals ;  and  after  eating 
our  supper  we  sank  to  rest,  and  slept  without 
the  slightest  interruption  until  the  first  beams 
of  the  rising  sun  warned  us  to  arise  and  pre- 
pare for  another  day's  travel,  which  we  did,  and 
pursued  our  way  along  the  western  bank  of  the 
Sumidor. 


37 


CHAPTER  V. 

A  Brazilian    Forest. — A  Curiosity. — A  Lion    monkey. — The 
Hills. — An  Ascent. — A  Supper  in  the  dark. 

MONDAY  evening,  October  4th. — The  fifth  day 
of  our  land  journey  ings  is  over,  we  having  rested 
all  yesterday  on  the  banks  of  the  Sumidor,  where 
we  arrived  on  Saturday.  This  morning,  at  sun- 
rise, we  left  the  river  and,  for  the  first  time,  en- 
tered the  Brazilian  Forest,  through  which  we  have 
been  slowly  forcing  our  way,  since  that  time. 
Nothing,  however,  can  be  more  beautiful  than  the 
scenery  around  some  of  the  natural  openings,  in 
one  of  which  we  are  now  encamped.  A  tiny 
rivulet  bubbles  over  the  stony  bed,  with  a  rocky 
shore  nearly  covered  with  the  Lecythis  that 
bears  the  curious  flower  so  much  resembling  a 
pitcher.  Trees  of  every  tropical  variety  sur- 
round this  streamlet.  The  airy  foliaged  silk- 
tree,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  but  which  I 
think,  botanists  term  Bombax,  the  trunk  and 
branches  of  which,  particularly  the  latter,  are 
armed  with  long  and  sharp  thorns ;  the  trumpet- 
tree  with  its  straight,  tall  stem  and  tufted  bran- 
ches, the  innumerable  palms,  with  their  broad, 

umbrella-like  summits,  grow  every  where  of  every 
4 


38  BRAZILIAN   FOREST. 

size,  from  the  gigantic  Charita,  down  to  the  little 
dwarf  palm,  which  spreads  its  large  thick  leaves 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground.  Then  there  is 
the  glorious  rosewood  tree,  or  jacarantha,  charm- 
ing us  with  the  richness  of  its  enormous  gold- 
coloured  flowers,  and  the  magnificence  of  its 
feathered  leaves ;  the  delightfully  perfumed 
Vanilla,  the  delicious  Tonquin  bean;  and  the 
not  quite  so  agreeable  ipecacuanha  and  sarsa- 
parilla.  We  have  just  been  drinking  some 
vegetable  milk  obtained  with  the  assistance  of  my 
pen-knife  from  the  very  appropriately  named  cow- 
tree,  and  it  is  very  much  like  animal  milk,  though 
not  quite  so  rich.  Ife  is  said  to  have  all  the  quali- 
ties of  the  latter : — was  butter  ever  made  of  it  ? 
Ned's  fowling  piece — and  mine  too,  for  that 
matter, — has  been  popping  all  day  at  the  gor- 
geously plumed  birds :  toucans,  parrots,  curas- 
sows,  macaws/paroquets,  guans,  and  many  another 
of  the  feathered  tribes  have  representativ^s  in  our 
game  bags,  forming  quite  a  congress,  some  indeed 
calculated  for  a  provisional  government.  I  have 
one  of  those  rarely  seen  curl-crested  Aracari  so 
much  prized  for  their  beautiful  plumage.  Ned  is 
decidedly  jealous  of  this  possession  of  mine,  as  I 
am  of  one  of  his, — an  equal  curiosity  in  the  shape 
of  a  darra,  or  bell  bird.  Unfortunately  this  last 
loses  its  principal  charm  in  dying,  this  is  to  say, 


BRAZILIAN  FOREST.  39 

its  voice,  which  has  the  peculiar  metallic  sound 
from  which  it  derives  its  common  name. 

I  have  found  M — r — e's  air  gun  of  much  use 
in  killing  the  lovely  little  humming  birds,  thou- 
sands of  which,  of  every  colour  in  the  rainhow,  dart 
ahout  among  the  singularly  shaped  parasitical 
plants  that  cling  to  nearly  every  tree.  Grey 
intends  preserving  the  skins  of  our  most  beau- 
tiful birds,  to  take  home  with  him  and  have 
stuffed.  They  will  form  a  very  valuable  and 
scarce  collection. 

"Wednesday  evening,  October  6th. — If  there  is 
to  be  an  end  of  our  journey  ings  before  we  reach 
the  Pacific  coast,  I  think  that  we  are  not  now  far 
from  it,  being  encamped  at  the  source  of  the  little 
Rio  Oteicorolla,  a  branch  of  the  Rio  St.  Rito,  the 
last  known  tributary  of  any  size,  of  the  Tapajos. 

We  face  the  south  west,  and  on  our  left  and  in 
front  of  us,  the  serrated  summits  of  the  Sierra 
Paricis, — or  Parexis, — rear  themselves  towards 
the  sky,  as  we  can  see  through  the  openings  of 
the  forest  which  is  not  near  so  thick  as  it  has  been 
during  our  last  day's  journey,  and  I  think  that 
within  a  few  miles  of  where  we  now  are,  there 
must  be  either  a  plain  or  a  river,  but  that  remains 
to  be  proved,  as  neither  are  down  on  my  miserable 
maps. 

Throughout  our  travels  from  Povoacao  we  have 


40  LION    MONKEY. 

not  seen  a  single  wild  animal,  if  we  except  the 
tribes  of  monkeys,  who  are  wild  enough  in  all 
conscience  and  infest  the  whole  forest.  We  caught 
yesterday  afternoon  a  young  lion  monkey  other- 
wise called  the  marikina  (Midas  Rosalia),  a  most 
ridiculous  caricature  of  his  majestic  godfather, 
being  a  positive  daguerreotype  likeness.  It  had  a 
ferocious  mane,  and  a  whisking,  tufted,  tail.  His 
actions  and  colour  resembled  the  African  Lion  pre- 
cisely, but  the  face  seemed  perpetually  on  the  grin 
from  the  peculiar  set  of  the  mouth.  He  was  less 
than  a  foot  long,  and  we  were  anxious  to  keep  and 
bring  him  home  with  us,  but  the  little  rascal  took 
it  into  his  head  to  make  himself  scarce  last  night 
and  we  are  left  quite  disconsolate  at  his  loss. 

I  am  writing  in  my  tent  by  the  light  of  a  candle, 
which, — in  lieu  of  a  candle  stick, — is  placed  in 
6  a  hole,'  cut  in  the  top  of  a  ripe  pineapple.  We 
have  had  a  long  day's  journey,  and  as  I  am  pro- 
portionably  tired,  I  shall  close  my  journal. 

On  Thursday  morning,  the  seventh  of  October, 
we  did  not  commence  our  march  until  near  nine 
o'clock,  having  been  detained  by  a  mule  having 
strayed  away.  However,  we  found  her,  and  set 
out,  coming,  at  eleven  o'clock  to  the  edge  of  the 
woods. 

Before  us  was  spread  a  plain,  and,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  a  mile,  rose  a  range  of  precipitous 


THE  HILLS.  41 

hills,  nearly  fourteen  hundred  feet  high  as  we  sub- 
sequently found,  although,  at  first  sight,  they 
seemed  much  lower.  Two  immense  mountains, — 
by  comparison, — reared  their  hoary  heads  behind 
these  hills,  and  still  further  back  peeped  the 
Sierra  Paricis,  blue  in  the  distance,  but  becoming 
gradually  of  a  more  distinct  colour  as  they  swelled 
toward  our  left,  which  they  passed,  being  lost 
to  our  veiw  by  the  intervening  forest.  On  the 
right  they  came  partially  up  to  meet  the  range  of 
hills,  and  then  retreated  to  their  old  position. 

As  we  approached  the  hills,  in  a  line  towards 
the  south  east,  we  heard  the  sound  of  descending 
water,  and  at  length  saw,  several  miles  to  our 
right,  the  mist  rising  from  a  series  of  broad  catar- 
acts, one  above  the  other,  being  altogether,  about 
a  hundred  feet  high.  From  the  foot  of  the  lowest 
fall  ran  a  stream,  winding  its  tortuous  way  through 
the  plain,  and  losing  itself  in  the  woods.  On  the 
extreme  right,  at  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles 
west-south-west  of  the  cataracts,  as  well  as  I 
could  judge,  was  one  of  the  two  high  mountains 
above  mentioned, — a  towering,  needle-like  peak, 
the  upper  part  of  which  was  buried  in  snow,  while 
below  this  came  narrow  bands  of  different  shades 
of  green.  The  other  one  was  much  lower  and 
about  the  same  distance  due  south  of  us : — towards 
it  we  rode,  examining  the  hills  carefully,  in  search 


42  AN   ASCENT. 

of  a  sufficiently  easy  slope,  as  all  we  then  saw, 
were  nearly  inaccessible  for  mules,  letting  alone 
the  horses  and  ourselves. 

We  rode,  and  rode  rapidly  too,  until  our  horses 
nearly  gave  out,  but  there  was  still  nothing  to  be 
seen  but  absolute  precipices.  We  had  passed  the 
smaller  of  the  two  tall  mountains,  and  were  just 
determining  to  call  the  annoying  hills,  the  Sierra 
Perplex-us,  in  contradistinction  to  the  neighbour- 
ing Sierra  Parexis,  when  we  discovered  a  gentle 
hill, — by  comparison.  It  being  very  near  sun- 
down, and  the  ascent  to  the  lowest  plateau  being 
very  long,  we  decided  upon  encamping  for  the 
night  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  just  where  we  were, 
which  we  did,  being  very  much  fatigued  after  a 
most  tiresome  ride. 

We  commenced  the  ascent  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
after  an  exceedingly  dangerous  and  fatiguing 
climb,  reached  the  first  plateau  from  the  ground, 
at  two,  having  been  seven  hours  on  the  hill.  Be- 
tween the  fatigue,  excitement,  heat,  and  a  good 
dinner,  we  fell  asleep  after  having  demolished  the 
latter  almost  entirely,  and  did  not  rouse  ourselves 
until  long  after  three,  when  we  recommenced 
climbing,  this  time  for  the  summit,  which  we  did 
not  gain  until  the  moon  was  shining  resplend- 
ently. 

When  there,  the  tinder  box  could  not  be  found, 


STOPPER  IN  THE  DARK.  43 

and,  as  it  has  as  yet,  not  been  discovered  what 
kind  of  lens  it  takes  to  light  a  fire  by  the  ray  of 
the  moon, — we  fully  expected  to  be  obliged  to  go 
to  rest  supperless,  or  nearly  so,  as  we  thought 
that  our  meal  could  only  consist  of  the  rather 
scanty  remains  of  our  dinner. 

But  such  was  not  fated  to  be  our  doom,  as  our 
most  excellent  and  thoughtful  cook, — by  name 
Harry  Boyd,  who  with  his  two  brothers  Peter  and 
Joseph,  have  accompanied  Ned  and  I  in  all  our 
many  travels, — had  provided,  in  case  of  accidents, 
an  ample  store  of  bananas,  pineapples,  and  other 
fruits  growing  wild  on  the  plain  and  in  the  forest, 
which  he  now  produced. 

We  devoured  them  with  wondrous  avidity,  in 
darkness,  and  in  silence,  all  of  us  being  much  too 
busily  engaged  to  talk.  After  this  we  turned  in 
immediately,  and  slept  like  so  many  humming 
tops,  not  even  dreaming  of  what  we  "jjere  in  hopes 
of  having  the  pleasure  of  seeing  on  the  following 
morning. 


44 


CHAPTER  VI. 

First  View  of  the  Valley. — Encounter  on  the  descent. — The 
Curac.a  of  Ocopaltepec. 

As  may  be  supposed,  all  five  of  us  were  up  and 
stirring  long  enough  before  dawn,  waiting  in  anxi- 
ety for  the  rising  of  the  "diurnal  luminary,"  as 
Carlyle  calls  it, — for  we  felt  assured  that  we  were 
near  the  wished-for  termination  of  our  journey. 
All  that  we  could  discern,  by  the  light  of  the 
gradually  fading  stars,  was  an  indistinct  mass  on 
our  right,  blacker  than  the  nearly  impenetrable 
darkness,  but  which,  from  its  situation,  we  con- 
jectured to  be  the  smaller  peak  of  the  two  hills. 

At  lengtl^  after  an  apparently  interminable 
wait  on  our  part,  the  first  rays  of  the  sun  struck 
the  top  of  this  mass,  and  quickly  descending,  dis- 
played the  mountain,  terraced  from  its  summit  to 
the  ground,  as  we  could  easily  see  even  at  the 
distance  we  were  from  it.  In  a  moment  more  we 
found  that  we  were  standing  on  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  a  valley,  surrounded,  on  a  little  more 
than  two  of  its  sides,  by  the  towering,  heaven- 
threatening  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Paricis,  while 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  VALLEY.  45 

the  remainder  was  compassed  in  by  the  hills  we 
had  seen  two  days  before.  The  level  of  the 
valley  was  closely  covered  with  fortified  cities, 
walled  and  unwalled  towns  and  villages,*  con- 
nected with  each  other  by  stone  causeways, 
lined,  on  either  side,  with  rows  of  trees.  Not  far 
from  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  which  we  were, 
stood  a  large  walled  town,  whose  white  buildings 
glistened  in  the  sun's  rays,  and  the  mountain 
itself  was  terraced  more  than  three-fourths  of  the 
way  up,  thickly  strewn  with  hamlets  and  the  resi- 
dences of  the  owners  or  tenants,  and  of  the 
labourers  on  the  plantations,  which  last  glowed 
with  all  kinds  of  vegetation, — from  the  golden 
wheat  of  the  north,  which  was  flourishing  on  the 
upper  terrace,  and  which, — being  moved  by  the 
morning's  cool  and  gentle  zephyrs, — seemed  to 
bow  to  the  newly  risen  orb  of  day,  bending  its 
bearded  heads  as  if  in  humble  adoration  of  that 
Great  Being  who  had  sent  the  refreshing  air, — 
down  to  the  stately  groves  of  banana,  jatropha, 

*  I  must  here  mention  that'  on  the  map,  which  forms  the 
frontispiece  of  this  book, — I  have  only  placed  those  cities,  towns, 
&c.,  which  I  have  actually  visited,  and  of  which  I  happen  to 
know  the  names  and  situations.  By  the  native  maps, — which  I 
subsequently  saw, — it  appears  that  there  are  more  than  twice  as 
many  towns  as  I  had  put  down.  Notwithstanding  this,  I  have 
left  the  map  in  its  original  state,  and  thus  it  makes  its  appear- 
ance. 

4* 


46  VALLEY  OF  GERAL. 

and  cocoa,  growing  on  the  level  of  the  valley,  and 
seeming  to  triumph  in  the  protection  of  a  just 
Providence. 

As  the  day  became  more  advanced,  the  houses 
gave  up  their  occupants,  who  trooped  to  their 
work  through  the  luxuriant  fields : — at  the  height 
which  we  were  above  them,  they  looked  more  like 
ants  than  men. 

Our  view  on  the  north  west  was  bounded  by 
the  tallest  of  the  two  peaks,  and  terminated,  in 
all  other  directions,  by  the  misty-blue,  undefined 
mountains  of  the  Sierra  Paricis.  On  the  extreme 
south-western  corner  of  the  valley  we  could  indis- 
tinctly see  an  immense  fortified  city,  the  largest 
in  view,  and  which  we  immediately  fixed  upon  as 
the  capital. 

No !  there  was  not  the  slightest  doubt  about 
it — we  had  found  the  VALLEY  OP  GERAL  ! — but 
we  had  not  entered  it.  This  last  had  now  to  be 
attempted,  and  as  a  premonitory  symptom  of  our 
intention  to  do  so,  all  our  weapons  and  firearms 
were  concealed  with  the  greatest  care,  and  load- 
ing our  mules,  we  mounted  our  horses,  and  com- 
menced the  descent  of  the  fertile  Sierra,  which 
rolled  down  gracefully  and  gradually ;  in  every 
respect  the  very  opposite  of  its  other  side,  where 
nearly  perpendicular  cliffs  combatted  for  supre- 
macy with  unmistakably  sterile  slopes. 


ENCOUNTER  ON  THE  DESCENT.  47 

We  descended  toward  the  south-west  in  the 
direction  of  the  large  town,  near  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  and  before  we  reached  the  wheat  pla- 
teau, encountered  an  immense  herd  of  llamas, 
attended  by  twenty  or  thirty  natives.  These 
last,  on  seeing  us,  took  to  their  heels,  and  all  but 
flew  down  the  terraces,  closely  followed  by  their 
gentle  and  pretty  charges.  This  annoyed  us,  as 
we  had  wished  to  make  friends  with  them,  so  that 
we  might  give  them  to  understand  our  amica- 
ble intentions.  In  order  to  overtake  them, 
Ned  and  I  put  spurs  to  our  horses,  and,  leaving 
the  mules  in  the  care  of  the  servants  that 
they  might  be  made  to  follow  us  down  to  the  val- 
ley, we  galloped  after  the  fleeing  Uamaherds. 

This  was  easier  said  than  done,  for  our  steeds, 
not  having  been  trained  to  walk  up  and  down 
stairs,  could  not  descend  the  short  flights  which 
connected  the  terraces,  without  exposing  their 
riders  to  the  danger  of  their  relative  positions 
being  reversed ;  that  is  to  say,  the  horse  on  top 
of  the  man.  As  we  did  not  think  this  would  be 
as  agreeable  as  the  usual  method  of  riding,  we 
gave  up  all  idea  of  catching  the  fugitives,  and, 
dismounting,  led  the  animals.  The  servants  and 
mules  soon  joined  us,  the  former  leading  their 
horses,  and  the  latter  descending  without  the 
slightest  difficulty.  As  we  went  on  we  saw  seve- 


48  ENCOUNTER  ON  THE  DESCENT* 

ral  parties  of  labourers,  but  on  our  approach  they 
all  fled,  and  we  pursued  our  course  uninterrupt- 
edly until  eleven  o'clock,  about  which  hour  we 
gained  the  second  terrace  from  the  ground. 

Here  we  were  rather  surprised  to  find  a  large 
body  of  warriors,  drawn  up  so  as  to  prevent  our 
further  progress,  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
lances,  javelins,  slings,  and  other  barbarian  wea- 
pons, and  also  carrying  numerous  banners  with 
different  devices  on  them.  Those  whom  we  sin- 
gled out  as  chieftains  were  assembled,  in  front  of 
the  army,  around  a  low  litter  of  a  reddish  coloured 
wood  inlaid  with  mother  of  pearl  and  gold.  As 
we  came  near,  the  curtains  of  this  conveyance 
were  opened,  and  there  descended  a  person  evi- 
dently somebody,  attired  in  a  superb  dress.  A 
rim  of  gold, — ornamented  with  pendant  jewels  of 
great  value,  and  decorated  with  an  aigrette,  com- 
posed of  the  feathers  of  the  rhea,  or  American 
ostrich,  dyed  scarlet, — encircled  his  head;  over 
his  shoulders  was  a  mantle  of  peculiar  form,  some- 
what resembling  a  poncho,  save  that  it  was  of 
even  length  all  around,  and  had  holes  for  the 
arms  to  come  through, — it  fell  nearly  to  his 
knees,  and  was  made  of  some  thick  white  stuff, 
richly  embroidered  with  gold  cross-bars,  and  bor- 
dered with  scarlet;  his  feet  were  defended  by 
sandals,  with  gold  soles,  and  having  the  leathern 


CURACA  OF  OCOPALTEPEC.  49 

straps  bossed  with  the  same  metal.  He  was 
about  twenty-seven  years  of  age,  nearly  six  feet 
tall,  and  had  a  very  prepossessing  expression  of 
countenance. 

As  he  descended,  all  the  attendant  chiefs 
touched,  with  their  right  hand,  first  their  fore- 
head and  then  the  ground.  Seeing  that  he 
approached  us,  we  all  halted  and  awaited  his 
arrival.  He  came  on  quickly,  attended  by  the 
chieftains,  and  when  immediately  before  us,  at  a 
distance  of  about  five  feet,  they  all  stopped  short. 
A  chief,  who  stood  by  the  side  of  the  principal 
person,  now  addressed  us  in  Amaquis,  which 
speech,  although  it  loses  much  by  its  bad  transla- 
tion, I  give  in  full,  as  it  was  as  curt  as  you 
please. 

"  Cioaco,  the  brave  and  mighty  Curaga  of  Oco- 
paltepec,  demands  in  the  name  of  Orteguilla,  the 
Inca,  our  father,  and  the  Child  of  the  Sun,  why  the 
strangers  have  dared  to  enter  the  Geral-milco 
without  asking  the  consent  of  our  father  the  Inca  ?" 

"We  come,"  I  answered,  " from  the  far  north 
to  sell  our  goods  in  the  city  of  the  Inca,  and  we 
bring  presents  to  him."  "  How  do  we  know  but 
that  you  come  as  enemies?"  asked  a  ferocious 
looking  gentleman  behind  the  Curaga.  "  If  we 
were  enemies  would  there  not  be  more  of  us  ?"  I 
asked;  "and  since  when  have  enemies  brought 


50  ENCOUNTER  ON  THE  DESCENT. 

presents  ?  Do  not  enemies  come  with  bows  and 
spears?"  This  was  unanswerable,  and  Ned, 
taking  my  hint,  went  to  extract  a  present  from 
the  load  of  one  of  the  mules,  while  I  kept  up  the 
conversation.  In  a  moment  Grey  reappeared 
bearing  in  his  arms  a  roll  of  mazarine  blue  silk, — 
not  out  of  my  goods, — and  an  axe.  When  I  saw 
the  last  I  felt  afraid  the  Curaga's  opinion  of  our 
being  enemies  might  return  on  seeing  us  armed 
with  such  a  formidable  looking  weapon,  but  when 
I  presented  them  to  him,  they  were  received  with 
evident  admiration,  and  it  was  clear  that  we  were 
considered  as  friends  now.  He  returned  most  of 
his  thanks  with  his  fine  eyes,  as  he  said  but  little, 
and  the  other  spokesman,  after  conferring  with 
him  for  a  short  time,  told  us  to  accompany  Cio- 
aco's  escort  to  the  nearest  town,  where  he  would 
leave  us,  while  he  went  on  to  the  Inca  to  request 
admission  in  our  name. 

The  Curaga  then  entered  his  litter  and  descend- 
ed the  two  terraces,  closely  followed  by  our  party. 
When  we  got  to  the  level  of  the  valley,  and  on  a 
broad  stone  causeway,  we  mounted  our  horses,  to 
the  great  fright  of  the  army,  who  had  never  seen 
such  big  four  legged  animals  before. 

At  three  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  walled  town 
to  which  we  had  originally  intended  to  direct  our 
steps,  but  ourselves  and  beasts  were  not  permitted 


ENCOUNTER  ON  THE  DESCENT.  51 

to  enter  the  gates.  Consequently  we  encamped 
where  we  were,  and  settled  ourselves  down  to 
await  the  arrival  of  a  message  from  the  Inca,  our 
tents  being  strictly  guarded  by  a  number  of  war- 
riors under  a  chief  named  Mixtecaltzin. 


52 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  Quauhtitlan. — Ocopal. — Colucatl. — The  Mexi- 
can Character  of  Names. — Night  View  from  the  Fortress. 

AT  four  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning,  October 
10th,  1847,  we  were  awakened  by  the  arrival- of 
the  Inca's  answer,  which  was  immediately  com- 
municated to  us  by  Mixtecaltzin,  and  as  it  may 
be  considered  a  curiosity,  I  insert  the  transla- 
tion. 

"  To  the  Strangers  at  Quauhtitlan : — 

"  The  Inca  Orteguilla,  Child  of  the  Sun  and 
Moon,  the  Brother  of  the  Stars,  orders  them  to 
come,  on  receiving  this,  to  his  city.  He  com- 
mands their  escort  to  keep  them  from  entering 
the  towns,  as  the  strange  creatures  they  have 
with  them  may  hurt  the  townsmen.  He  has  a 
house  for  them,  meat  for  them,  a  stall  in  the 
Market  Place  for  their  goods,  and  room  for  their 
presents.  ,Let  them  haste. 

"  In  the  name  of  the  Inca, 

"APIXTAMATL  HUAXTEUCTLI." 


0€OPAL. — COLUCATL.  53 

This  document*  is  in  Amaquis  of  course,  and 
is  inscribed  upon  paper,  made  from  the  inner 
bark  of  the  cocoa-tree,  in  coloured  hieroglyphics. 

In  obedience  to  the  command  it  contained,  we 
commenced  preparing  for  instant  departure  from 
Quauhtitlan,  and  at  five  o'clock  started,  accom- 
panied by  the  same  escort,  who  were  horridly 
afraid  of  our  horses  and  mules.  We  were,  of 
course,  obliged  to  rein  in  the  former  to  a  walk  so 
that  the  warriors  might  keep  up  with  us,  and  in 
this  manner  we  poked  along  until  ten  o'clock 
when  we  got  to  a  town,  the  name  of  which  I 
found  was  Ocopal.  Although  it  was  unwalled  we 
were  not  permitted  to  enter,  but  were  left,  about 
half  a  mile  from  it,  to  eat  and  refresh  ourselves. 

After  eleven  we  set  out  again  with  a  new  escort 
but  the  same  chief,  and  at  three  halted  once  more 
for  a  change  of  warriors  outside  the  town  of 
Colucatl,  which,  being  situated  upon  a  rising 
ground,  afforded  a  very  good  view  of  the  large 
walled  city,  mentioned  in  the  last  chapter,  as 
occupying  the  south-western  corner  of  the  valley, 
— and  I  could  see  that  it  partially  enclosed  a  good- 
sized  lake,  and  that  the  walls, — of  great  height, — 

*  As  the  reader  may  suppose,  it  is  still  in  my  possession,  and 
is  carefully  kept. 


54  MEXICAN  CHARACTER  OF  NAMES. 

encompassed  parts  of  the  plateaus  of  the  surround- 
ing mountains. 

We  had  travelled  all  the  way  from  Quauhtitlan 
over  stone  causeways,  bordered  by  rows  of  trees, 
and  almost  lined  with  houses  and  gardens,  the 
plantations  being  almost  exclusively  confined  to 
the  terraces  of  the  mountains.  Our  warriors  were 
not  ready  to  accompany  us  until  after  four  o'clock, 
when  we  left  Colucatl,  proceeding  in  a  direction 
nearly  due  west,  a  very  little  deviating  towards 
the  south. 

What  had  surprised  me  most  during  our  first  day 
in  the  valley  was  the  great  prevalence  of  Mexi- 
can names,  for  I  had  heard  but  three  that  bore 
the  slightest  resemblance  to  those  attributed  to 
the  Peruvians, — viz.,  Orteguilla,  the  name  of 
the  Inca ;  Cioaco,  that  of  the  friendly  Curaga ; 
and  Geral,  the  appellation  of  the  valley.  But 
this  last  was  un-Peruvianized  by  means  of  the 
Astecan  addition  of  'milco,'  meaning  valley. 
The  name  of  the  chief  of  our  escort, — Mixtecalt- 
zin,  and  those  of  two  of  the  towns  through  which 
we  had  passed, — Quauhtitlan  and  Colucatl, — pre- 
sented the  three  characteristic,  consonantal,  ter- 
minations of  the  northern  language. 

At  twenty  minutes  past  six,  our  party  halted 
at  the  town  of  Ameralqua,  on  the  banks  of  the 
lake, — which  I  now  learnt  was  called  Naloma, — 


AMERALQUA.  55 

where,  Ned,  I,  and  the  servants,  took  our  sup- 
pers. The  Lake  was  not  only  ornamented  with 
four,  real  fortified  islands,  but  with  innumerable 
little  floating  fellows,  called  by  the  ancient  inhab- 
itants of  Tenochtitlan,  Chinampas,  so  I  was  not 
at  all  astonished  to  hear  them  so  termed  by  our  es- 
cort. From  the  town  to  the  nearest  of  the  island 
forts,  there  ran  a  strong  dyke, — or  more  proper- 
ly bridge,  as  the  water  passed  through  numerous 
triangular  openings, — and  we  saw  that  the  isles 
themselves  were  connected  with  each  other  in  the 
same  manner,  and  also,  that  the  one  nearest  the 
city  was  joined  to  it  by  three  remarkably  broad 
ones,  two  of  which  appeared  to  be  a  continuation 
of  the  walls  encompassing  the  capital. 

The  town  end  of  the  dike  of  Ameralqua  was 
defended  by  two  fortresses  of  great  height  and 
strength,  and  the  sun  had  not  yet  set, — although 
it  was  nearly  half  past  seven, — when  we  passed 
between  them  and  got  on  the  dike. 

We  had  nearly  reached  the  first  island  when 
Mixtecaltzin,  cried  out, — "  Hasten !  Oh  warriors ! 
Our  Master  is  bidding  farewell  to  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  of  Atola  !  Hasten,  or  the  gates  of 
the  fortress  will  be  closed."  The  men  walked 
faster,  and  Ned  and  I  put  our  horses  in  a  gallop, 
much  to  the  fear  of  the  escort,  who  crowded  to 
one  side  of  the  dike  that  we  might  pass  on. 


56  NIGHT    VIEW 

As  the  last  man  entered  the  fortress,  the  sun  set, 
and  the  gates  clanged  together  behind  us — and  be- 
fore us  too,  which  was  more  than  we  bargained 
for.  That  we  should  have  to  spend  the  night 
where  we  were,  was  plainly  evident,  and  in  con- 
sequence we  selected  a  camping  ground  upon  the 
stone  court-yard,  where  the  animals  were  now 
driven,  fastened  and  unloaded.  This  done,  Ned 
and  I  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  walls  to  see 
what  was  to  be  seen,  and  there  undoubtedly  was 
something  very  well  worth  seeing. 

Athough  the  sun  had  not  been  down  an  hour, 
it  was  dark  as  midnight,  there  being  as  yet  no 
moon,  and  the  stars  not  having  so  soon  attained 
their  greatest  brilliancy.  The  grey  unillumina- 
ted,  jagged  walls  of  the  three  other  island  for- 
tresses were  immediately  before  us,  accidentally 
so  placed  as  to  form  what  appeared  from  our  sit- 
uation to  be  a  barrier  across  the  lake.  Beyond 
these  the  Sierra  Paricis  could  just  be  discerned 
from  its  greater  darkness  than  the  sky,  and  also 
by  its  many  summits  having  already  received,  on 
their  eastern  sides,  the  first  rays  of  the  moon,  as 
yet  invisible  in  the  less  elevated  parts  of  the  val- 
ley. As  we  gazed  on  this  singular  scene  a 
change  suddenly  came  over  it,  rendering  it  even 
more  remarkable.  A  brilliant,  but  flickering  red 
light  at  once  illuminated  the  lower  plateaus  of 


FROM  THE  FORTRESS.  57 

the  Sierra,  and  this  being  lost  in  the  foliage  of 
higher  terraces  had  a  peculiar  and  mysterious 
effect.  Nearest  to  us  were  the  now  apparently 
coal-black  walls  of  the  forts,  immediately  above 
them  glowed  the  fiery  light  melting  into  impen- 
etrable darkness,  over  which  gleamed  the  snow- 
capped moon-lit  summits  of  the  mountains. 

After  regarding  this  magnificent  coup  d'oeil 
for  some  time,  we  inquired  the  cause  of  the  red 
flickering  light,  and  learnt  that  it  was  produced 
by  fires  kindled  on  the  roof  of  every  house  in 
Geral  on  the  rising  of  the  moon  whenever  that 
took  place.  As  the  heavenly  lamp  of  night  rose 
higher  and  higher,  the  fires  one  by  one  died  out, 
but  the  native  of  whom  we  inquired,  told  us  that 
on  those  nights  when  the  '  Mother  of  the  Inca,' 
— as  they  call  the  moon, — did  not  appear,  the 
fires  were  kept  up  until  daybreak. 

We  retired  to  rest  at  ten  o'clock,  having  been 
notified  to  the  effect  that  we  should  have  to  start 
on  the  first  glimpse  of  the  sun. 


58 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

A  mistake. — First  View  of  the  Capital. — Reception  at  the 
Gates. 

IN  pursuance  of  the  orders  communicated  to 
us,  we  were  ready  to  start  at  dawn,  but  as  the 
gates  of  the  fortress  could  not  be  opened  until 
sunrise,  we  were  obliged  to  await  that  event.  In 
the  meantime  we  fished  our  way,  in  the  darkness, 
to  a  gate,  leading  as  we  thought  to  the  dike  con- 
necting the  island,  on  which  we  were,  with  the 
next  in  order  towards  the  city,  and  here  we 
seated  ourselves,  wondering  why  we  were  not 
joined  by  our  escort.  The  sun  soon  made  his 
appearance  over  the  eastern  mountains,  and  the 
gates  were  thrown  open  by  the  officials.  We 
were  about  to  pass  through  at  once,  alone,  and 
should  have  done  so,  had  not  Grey  taken  a  peep 
first  and  found  out  that  we  were  at  the  wrong 
dike,  as  this  one  left  to  the  shores  of  the  lake, 
although  it  was  not  that  by  which  we  had  entered 
the  fortress  on  the  previous  night. 

As  we  stood  still,  wondering  what  we  should 
do  next,  we  were  relieved  by  the  appearance  of 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  CAPITAL.  59 

Mixtecaltzin,  who  had,  we  found,  been  searching 
for  us  every  where.  He  told  us  that,  this  was  a 
dike  leading  to  a  little  town  named  Onadella,  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  lake,  and  added  that  the 
men  awaited  us  at  another  gate,  whither  we 
immediately  followed  him,  the  horses  and  mules 
being  led  by  the  servants.  We  were  soon  on  the 
proper  dike,  and  in  a  short  time  passed  through 
the  three  other  fortresses,  entering,  from  the  last 
one,  on  the  middle  of  the  three  bridges  leading  to 
the  city,  it  being  the  shortest  and  also  the  broad- 
est, as  the  greater  part  of  the  others  was  occu- 
pied by  the  walls  of  the  city  which  connected  the 
banks  of  the  lake  and  the  island  forts  by  means 
of  the  two  dikes. 

Crowds  of  people  swarmed  on  the  bridge  we 
crossed, — although  we  obtained  an  easy  passage 
from  their  fear  of  our  animals, — and  the  lake  was  a 
mass  of  canoes  filled  with  natives.  At  the  end 
of  the  dike  frowned  a  high,  stone,  fortified  build- 
ing with  a  wide  entrance,  evidently  one  of  the 
city  gates. 

I  chanced  to  look  towards  my  left,  and  I  saw 
the  capital.  Being  built  on  a  gradually  rising 
ground,  a  plan  of  it  might  almost  have  been 
drawn  from  where  I  was.  In  some  parts,  mon- 
strously broad  streets,  flanked  by  large  houses  of 
white  stone  with  flat  roofs,  with  gardens  around 


60  RECEPTION. 

them, — ran  from  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  Paricis  to 
the  very  edge  of  the  lake,  in  perfectly  straight 
lines.  Hundreds  of  elevated  buildings, — proba- 
bly temples,  towered  over  the  city,  which  was  di- 
versified with  immense  parks,  or  enclosures  filled 
with  trees. 

We  moved  on  but  slowly  through  the  dense  crowd, 
and  passed  through  the  dike  gate.  As  we  entered 
this  strong  fortress,  our  ears  were  shocked  by  a 
sudden  burst  of  savage  and  discordant  music, — 
it  was  the  Inca's  band, — and  in  a  few  moments 
he  and  his  cortege  came  in  sight.  A  more  gor- 
geous display  I  never  saw. 

The  procession  was  opened  by  a  throng  of 
military  officers  in  their  magnificent  costumes. 
On  their  heads  they  wore  helmets  formed  like 
the  heads  of  various  wild  animals,  composed  of 
silver,  gold,  or  bronze,  ornamented, — rather  sin- 
gularly, and,  according  to  my  ideas,  very  inap- 
propriately,— with  crests  of  feathers  and  jewels. 
Cuirasses, — made  of  either  of  the  three  above 
named  metals,  but  invariably  wrought  like  the 
scales  of  a  fish, — were  placed  over  their  breasts, 
with  kelts,  of  different  materials,  falling  from 
their  lower  edge,  reaching  nearly  to  the  knee. 
On  their  shoulders,  and  hanging  down  their 
backs,  were  fastened  cloaks  either  of  stained  or 
embroidered  cotton  cloth,  or  of  feather  work.  A 


RECEPTION.  61 

few  of  the  most  renowned  warriors,  I  suppose, 
wore  the  skins  of  wild  beasts,  the  head  resting  on 
the  helmet,  and  the  fore  paws  falling  over  the 
shoulders.  All  of  these  chieftains  were  armed 
with  different  kinds  of  weapons. 

Next  came  the  band, — not  par  excellence, — con- 
sisting of  a  great  many  natives  making  a  most 
horrific  noise  upon  reed  flutes,  wooden  trumpets, 
snakeskin  drums,  conches,  and  other  barbarous 
inventions  intended  to  discourse  most  excruciating 
music.  After  these  came  a  large  number  of  no- 
bles, probably  those  holding  high  offices  of  state. 
They  wore  dresses  like  that  which  Cioaco  had  on 
during  our  interview  on  the  terrace  of  the  little 
sierra.  Carried  on  the  shoulders  of  sixteen  of 
these  magnificently  attired  gentlemen,  was  an 
open  litter,  composed  of  gold,  superbly  wrought, 
bossed  with  precious  stones  and  inlaid  with  mother 
of  pearl,  having  a  canopy  of  the  feathers  of  the 
Rhea,  dyed  in  various  colours.  In  this  was  seated 
the  Inca,  Orteguilla,  wearing  the  llautu,  the 
sacred  borla,  and  the  military  dress  of  an  officer 
of  high  rank,  it  being  composed  of  a  golden 
ciruass  bossed  with  silver,  and  studded  with  gems, 
golden  sandals,  similarly  decorated,  the  skin  of  a 
jaguar  served  for  a  cloak,  and  a  kelt  of  green 
plumaje.  The  crimson  fringe  of  the  borla  fell 
almost  in  his  eyes,  giving  a  most  singular  expres- 
5 


62  RECEPTION. 

sion  to  an  otherwise  strikingly  handsome  face,  his 
features  being  regular  and  his  complexion  of  a 
clear,  although  dark,  olive.  His  eyes  were  remark- 
ably fine,  and  had  an  exceedingly  benevolent  and 
engaging  expression.    I  should  not  think  that  he 
was  over  forty,  if  so  much.     His  only  disfigure- 
ment was  in  his  ears,  which  having  been  cut, 
according  to  'fashion,'  for  the  insertion  of  large, 
jewelled  balls  of   gold, — -the  insignia   of   royal 
birth, — had  gradually  been  pulled  down  by  the 
weight   of  these   cumbrous   articles,  until   they 
rested  on  his  shoulders ;  but  they  were  a  good 
deal  hidden  by  his  hair,  which  was, — as  indeed 
was  that   of   every  noble   present, — excessively 
long  and  curling  in  ringlets. 

On  seeing  us,  he  motioned  the  procession  to 
stop,  and,  descending  from  his  litter,  approached 
us,  followed  closely  by  the  nobles,  while  Ned  and 
I  advanced  to  meet  him. 

Then  commenced  an  interchange  of  compli- 
ments, in  the  course  of  which  we  ascertained,  with 
considerable  difficulty,  that  we  were  welcome  to 
Geral,  that  the  city  was  open  to  us,  and  that  a 
palace  had  been  prepared  for  our  reception. 
Having  spun  this  little  information  out, — in  the 
manner  of  some  modern  novelists, — as  the  subject 
of  at  least  ten  minutes  conversation,  the  Inca 
retired  to  his  litter  and  from  the  fortress,  attended 


RECEPTION.  63 

by  the  same  retinue,  with  the  exception  of  two 
nobles  whom  he  left  behind  him  to  conduct  us  to 
our  palace ; — their  names  were  Conatzin  and 
Oradalda. 

We  followed  them  through  several  broad  streets, 
filled  with  people, — although  it  was  very  early  in 
the  morning, — and  ornamented  with  many  splen- 
did public  buildings  and  equally  handsome  private 
residences,  until  we  got  to  the  Great  Market 
Place,  or  Tianguez,  as  the  Mexicans  called  it, 
and  the  Geralians  call  it,  which  is  precisely  the 
same  thing. 

Here  we  dismounted, — for  on  entering  the  city 
we  had  placed  ourselves  in  the  saddle,  in  order  to 
have  a  better  view  of  it, — and  led  our  horses 
across  this  vast  enclosure,  as  we  were  fearful  that 
they  might  injure  some  of  the  many  natives,  who 
were  already  afraid  of  them,  and  the  place  was 
thronged  with  the  buying  and  selling  part  of  the 
population. 

Still  under  the  guidance  of  the  two  fine-looking 
and  courteous  chiefs,  we  entered  an  extravagantly 
broad  thoroughfare,  at  the  end  of  which,  was 
pointed  out  to  our  notice,  the  immense  park,  and 
palace  intended  for  our  occupation. 


64 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Description  of  the  Park  and  Palace. 

WE  soon  entered  the  gilt-gates  of  the  large  park 
•which  encircled  the  building,  and  rode  up  a  broad 
avenue  leading  to  the  great  entrance,  where  we 
found  a  crowd  of  native  servants  who  had  been 
sent  to  wait  on  us  by  the  Inca.  Here  we  alighted 
and  immediately  commenced  hunting  for  an  out 
building  suitable  for  a  stable,  which  Ned  soon 
found  at  a  short  distance  in  the  rear  of  the  palace, 
and  the  animals  were  taken  there  as  soon  as  the 
servants  had  unloaded  the  mules  and  had  placed 
the  packs  in  the  large  hall.  This  being  done, 
and  a  slight  breakfast  having  been  despatched, 
Ned  and  I,  under  the  guidance  of  one  of  the 
numerous  attendants  in  the  palace,  took  a  survey 
of  our  new  domicile. 

As  I  have  before  mentioned,  it  was  surrounded 
by  a  large  park,  which  we  subsequently  found  to 
contain  a  little  over  two  hundred  acres,  filled  with 
beds  of  gorgeous  flowers,  fountains,  pavilions, 
shrubberies  and  groves  of  trees,  and^also  contain- 
ing an  extensive  aviary,  which  I  might  almost  call 


PAKK  AND  PALACE.  65 

a  natural  one,  as  it  was  formed  only  by  a  net,  of 
very  fine  mesh,  thrown  over  the  tops  of  several 
trees,  and  securely  fastened;to  the  ground.  Here 
and  there  through  the  luxuriant  foliage  might  be 
seen  the  glittering  of  the  sun  on  the  large  artificial 
lakes  intended  for  bathing. 

The  palace  was  of  grey  stone,  one  story  high, 
with  a  flat  roof,  or  azotea,  as  the  Spaniards  would 
call  it ;  its  length  was  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and 
the  depth  nine  hundred,  the  height  being  thirty 
two.  The  roof  was  .reached  by  two  exterior 
flights  of  steps,  placed  in  front  of  the  building,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  divide  the  facade  into  three 
equal  parts,  and  they  were  each  eighty  feet  broad 
consisting  of  fifty  one  steps,  each  step  being  eight 
inches  high  and  fourteen  deep  ;  thus  making  the 
distance  between  the  front  of  the  lowest  step,  and 
the  fagade  of  the  palace,  fifty  nine  feet,  six  inches. 
On  either  side  of  these  flights  were  two  monstrous 
serpents  carved,  with  a  good  deal  of  skill,  out  of 
white  marble,  to  serve  as  banisters.  The  heads  of 
these  four  snakes  rested  on  the  ground  at  the  foot 
of  the  steps,  and  their  widely  distended  mouths, 
ferocious  looking  teeth,  and  lolling-out  tongues, 
had  an  exceedingly  curious,  not  to  say  frightful, 
effect.  The  length  of  their  upper  jaws,  from  the 
corner  of  the  mouth  to  the  tip  of  the  nose,  was 
thirteen  feet  eight  inches,  and  there  was  sufficient 


66  PALACE. 

space  between  the  two  jaws  for  a  seven-footer  to 
stand,  with  ease.  This  will  give  an  idea  of  their 
appearance. 

Although  the  palace  was,  as  I  mentioned  before, 
but  one  story  in  height,  from  the  outside  it  looked 
as  if  it  were  two  ;  for  at  a  distance  of  twelve  feet 
from  the  ground  there  projected  a  cornice,  and 
above  this  the  building  ascended  eighteen  feet, 
not,  however,  on  the  same  line  as  the  portion 
below  the  cornice,  but  eight  or  nine  feet  further 
back.  Beneath  the  cornice,  the  building  was 
composed  of  oblong  blocks  of  granite,  of  equal 
size,  and  much  resembling  what  is  called  rustic 
work  in  architecture,  it  being  unhewn,  and  only 
smooth  for  about  two  inches  on  each  side  of  the 
seams.  But  the  false  story  was  a  mass  of  magni- 
ficent decoration,  abounding  in  lattice  work,  of 
stone,  of  the  most  beautiful  description  and 
carving,  in  which  last  I  noticed,  figuring  conspic- 
uously, the  ornament  so  generally  known  as  the 
*  Grecian  border.'  The  corners  of  this  second 
part  were  rounded  and  most  grotesquely  carved, 
with  large  oblongs,  in  which  scrolls  were  so 
arranged  as  to  represent  the  human  face,  the 
nose  being  imaged  by  a  most  curious  and  fanciful 
projection,  about  as  much  like  what  it  was 
intended  for,  as  a  chandelier  would  be.  Those 
parts  of  the  faQade,  where  the  three  entrances 


PALACE.  67 

• 

were  placed,  were  sunk  back  about  twenty  feet, 
and  the  corners  of  these  recesses  were  also 
rounded  and  adorned  as  above  described. 

The  principal  entrance  was  between  the  two 
flights  of  steps,  and  was  an  opening,  twelve  feet 
high  by  ten  wide,  with  a  gate  of  gilt  bronze,  and 
this  admitted  you  into  a  very  broad  hall,  paved 
with  marble,  leading  to  a  large  circular  court  in 
the  centre  of  the  building.  On  both  sides  of  this 
were  apertures,  having  draperies  of  different 
colours  hanging  over  them  to  serve  as  doors.  I 
will  here  mention  that  the  court  yard  received 
three  other  halls, — like  that  which  I  am  about  to 
describe, — one  leading  from  the  back,  and  the 
other  two  from  either  end  of  the  structure. 

Our  guide  moved  aside  the  drapery  of  the  first 
door  on  the  right,  as  we  entered  the  hall,  and  we 
stood  in  a  spacious  apartment,  about  100  feet 
square.  At  a  distance  of  twenty  feet  from  the 
walls  rose  a  square  of  porphyry  columns, — closely 
resembling  in  form  those  of  the  East  Indian  tem- 
ples, being  of  a  vase-like  shape,  standing  on  a 
tall  pedestal,  with  a  capital  somewhat  resembling 
a  compressed  cushion, — richly  carved,  and  sup- 
porting a  balustrade  which  surrounded  an  open- 
ing in  the  roof,  through  which  a  flood  of  light 
poured  down  on  a  small  fountain  which  bubbled 
in  the  centre  of  the  room.  The  walls  were  hung 


68  PALACE. 

with  a  pale  sea-green  tapestry,  embroidered  "with 
gold  flowers,  and  the  piles  of  cushions,  of  all 
shapes  and  sizes,  that  were  thrown  over  the^  mar- 
ble floor,  were  of  the  same  colour  and  style. 

Another  piece  of  tapestry  was  raised  by  our 
guide,  and  admitted  us  into  a  hall,  which  we 
crossed  and  entered  a  second  room  much  larger 
than  the  first,  but  of  similar  construction.  The 
colour  which  principally  attracted  the  eye,  how- 
ever, was  not  as  agreeable,  being  a  sickly,  sul- 
phureous yellow.  Leaving  this  ghostly  room 
as  quickly  as  possible,  we  passed  through  seve- 
ral small  apartments,  until  we  came  to  a  nar- 
row entry,  whicn,  we  were  told,  was  made  in 
the  northern  wall  of  the  palace,  and  along  this 
we  walked  for  some  distance,  till,  at  last,  we  came 
to  a  granite  wall,  forming  the  termination  of  the 
entry  :— on  our  left  was  a  hanging.  It  was 
raised  and  we  entered  an  apartment,  long  and 
narrow, — by  comparison.  Two  sky-lights, — if  I 
may  so  call  them, — afforded  the  only  illumination 
of  this  saloon,  which  was  hung  with  gray  tapestry, 
looped  up  so  as  to  display  an  underhanging  of 
buff  embroidered  with  silver.  The  floor  was  of 
highly  polished  marble,  and  the  ceiling  of  carved 
rose-wood.  The  cushions  in  this  room  were  of 
gray  and  silver. 

Not  to  fatigue  the  reader,  I  will  describe  but 


PALACE.  69 

one  room  more, — my  chamber,  which  was  situated 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  central  hall,  and 
entered  by  passing  through  two  smaller  apart- 
ments, handsomely  furnished,  and  appropriated 
to  my  particular  use.  On  seeing  this  apartment, 
both  Ned  and  I  decided  upon  its  being  the  most 
splendid  in  the  palace. 

It  was  sixty-five  feet  long,  forty  wide,  and 
twenty-five  high,  with  the  usual  square  of  por- 
phyry columns  in  the  centre,  here  enclosing  a 
space  of  twenty  feet,  in  the  middle  [of  which 
was  a  fountain.  The  ceiling  was  of  cedar, 
covered  with  very  delicately  carved  foliage ;  the 
floor  was  only  visible  within  the  square  of  the 
columns,  where  it  was  composed  of  differently 
coloured  woods,  so  put  together  as  to  form  a  pat- 
tern ;  the  other  and  greater  portion  was  raised 
three  steps  higher  than  that  around  the  fountain, 
and  was  covered  with  a  thick,  velvety  looking, 
creamish-coloured  material,  embroidered  all  over 
with  large  bouquets  of  flowers,  so  beautifully  done, 
as  to  seem  like  real  ones. 

The  walls  were  draped  with  scarlet  tapestry 
embroidered  with  gold  cross-bars,  having  a  circle 
of  silver  in  the  centre  of  each  square,  and  a  very 
deep,  rich  border  of  gold  flowers.  These  hang- 
ings fell  from  a  gilt  cornice,  that  ran  around  the 
top  of  three  of  the  walls ;  but  on  the  left  hand  side, 
5* 


70  PALACE. 

as  you  entered,  the  tapestry  only  fell  fourteen 
feet,  for  at  that  height  from  the  floor,  the  false 
second  story  protruded  into  the  apartment,  seem- 
ing like  one  of  those  galleries  so  often  met  with 
in  the  old  manor  houses  of  merry  England. 
Through  the  lattice  work  of  this  intrusion  the 
sun  was  permitted  to  pour  his  rays,  it  being 
undraped. 

At  the  end  of  the  room,  opposite  the  entrance, 
was  what  served  for  a  bed ; — consisting  of  a  white 
cushion, — or  rather,  ottoman, — starred  with  gold, 
seven  or  eight  feet  square,  two  feet  high,  and 
plentifully  provided  with  small  cushions.  It 
stood  under  a  canopy  of  feather-work,  raised 
twenty  feet  from  the  floor,  supported  in  front  by 
two  slender  silver  columns,  and,  on  the  back  wall, 
falling  to  the  floor.  Above  the  back  of  the  can- 
opy was  a  huge  silver  circle  surrounded  with 
small  silver  stars,  and  in  each  corner  of  the  room 
stood  an  incense  table,  of  gold,  magnificently 
chased,  and  furnished  with  vases,  and  caskets  of 
incense.  The  rest  of  the  furniture  consisted  of 
stools  and  tables,  elaborately  carved  out  of  solid 
blocks  of  ebony,  cedar,  rosewood,  and  other 
woods,  highly  polished,  and  the  former  having 
crimson  cushions. 

I  will  end  this  chapter  by  describing  the  cir- 
cular court  in  the  centre  of  the  palace.  This 


PALACE.  71 

extensive  opening  had  a  diameter  of  four  hun- 
dred and  thirty  odd  feet,  and  was  surrounded  by 
a  portico  supported  by  a  double  ^ow  of  the  tall, 
vase-like  pillars,  before  spoken  of.  In  the  centre 
of  the  enclosed  space  was  a  large  and  fine  foun- 
tain, and  four  others  were  at  equal  distances 
around  it.  The  whole  court  was  paved  with 
white  marble  of  the  purest  quality,  interrupted, 
here  and  there,  by  large  beds  of  the  most  fra- 
grant flowers  of  the  tropics,  very  carefully  tended 
by  the  multitude  of  gardeners  who  were  attached 
to  the  large  retinue  of  the  Inca. 

This,  I  hope,  will  give  a  slight  idea  of  the 
magnificence  in  the  midst  of  which  we  now,  so 
unexpectedly,  found  ourselves  placed;  for  we 
had  never  even  dreamt  of  falling  in  with  such 
splendour  when  we  left  Charleston. 

It  must  not  be  imagined  that  I  ascertained  all 
the  measurements  given  in  the  course  of  this 
chapter  in  the  first  day's  examination  of  the  pa- 
lace, as  such  is  not  the  fact.  They  were  made 
long  afterwards,  but  I  thought  best  to  insert  them 
with  the  preceding  description.- 


72 


CHAPTER  X. 

Dinner. — A  Promenade. — The  Court  of  Justice. — Tiangucz — 
The  Close  of  the  first  day. 

WE  did  not  complete  our  explorations  of  the 
Palace  until  nearly  twelve  o'clock,  but  having,  at 
last  finished,  we  set  to  work.  That  is  to  say,  we 
removed, — by  the  help  of  the  natives,  and  our 
own  servants, — all  our  merchandise  into  one  of 
the  numerous  unoccupied  rooms,  and  all  our  pri- 
vate baggage  was  placed  in  our  separate  apart- 
ments, which  were  in  a  row,  side  by  side, 
mine  being  next  to  the  outer  wall,  Ned's  next, 
then  those  of  our  three  attendants.  This  en- 
gaged us  fully  until  two  o'clock,  a  little  after 
which  hour,  a  native  servant  entered  the  saloon 
where  we  were,  and, — understanding  his  low  sa- 
lute,— we  followed  him  through  several  apartments 
which  we  had  not  before  seen. 

He  raised  a  piece  of  tapestry,  and  admitted  us 
into  a  long  room,  hung  with  light  blue  drapery,  em- 
broidered in  silver,  and  lighted  by  three  skylights. 
Under  the  middle  one  of  these  there  was  no 


DINNER.  73 

fountain,  but  in  its  place  stood  a  good  sized  ta- 
ble, with  five  couches  around  it.  The  table  was 
covered  with  a  white  cotton  cloth,  having  a  deep 
border  of  silver  embroidery,  and  laid  out  with  a 
mass  of  gold  plate,  while  before  each  guest  was 
placed  a  tall  silver  goblet,  containing  a  very  sin- 
gular and  questionable  looking  concoction  which 
neither  Ned  nor  I  were,  at  first,  very  anxious  to 
taste.  At  last  Grey, — invariably  the  first  in  eve- 
ry novel  and  dangerous  adventure, — resolutely 
seized  that  before  him,  looked  at  the  contents, 
made  a  wry  face,  but,  nevertheless,  put  it  to  his 
lips,  cautiously.  One  gentle  sip, — a  look  of  sur- 
prise, and  an  exclamation,  were  rapidly  followed 
by  a  vacuum  in  the  goblet,  while  I  was  recom- 
mended to  try  it.  I  did  so,  and  found  it  good. 
It  was  a  celebrated  beverage  of  the  ancient  Peru- 
vians and  Mexicans,  and  called  by  the  latter 
4  Chocolatl,'  being  a  preparation  of  Cocoa,  flavour- 
ed with  vanilla,  and  beaten  up  to  a  froth,  in 
which  latter  state  it  was  cooled  and  drunk  freely 
of  during  the  day.* 

*  It  is  Bernal  Diaz  who, — in  his  veritable  history  of  the  Con- 
quest of  Mexico, — states  that  Montezuma  had  a  quantity, 
amounting  to  nearly  four  gallons,  of  this  beverage  prepared  for 
his  own  private,  daily,  consumption !  But  as  the  valiant  Con- 
quistador, above  named,  is  generally  believed  to  have  been  tal- 
ented in  the  art  of  drawing  the  long  bow,  in  more  senses  than 
one,  we  will  take  his  moderate  estimate  at  one  fourt A,  and  try 


74  DINNER. 

The  dishes  on  the  board  were  mostly  vegeta- 
ble ;  and  besides  these  we  had  parched  maize ;  a 
mixture  like  soup,  but  strongly  flavoured  with 
orange  juice ;  tortillas,  or  something  very  much 
resembling  them ;  and  boiled  fish.  The  baked 
flesh  of  the  llama  also  appeared  conspicuously, 
flanked  by  birds, — likewise  baked, — such  as  guans, 
curassows,  the  Cancroma  Cochlearca,  (or  boat- 
bill,)  and  others,  whose  names  I  was  not  acquaint- 
ed with.  The  first  two  were  unexceptionably 
fine,  and  were  the  most  delicately  flavoured  fowls 
I  ever  ate,  but  the  third  had  a  slightly  fishy  taste 
which  was  not  precisely  agreeable. 

We  brought  our  own  knives  and  forks  to  the 
table,  but  the  former  were  already  supplied  by 
ones  made  of  itzli,  and  the  latter  were  supplanted 
by  sharp  pointed  rods  of  gold.  By  each  plate  was 
a  square  piece  of  stuff,  answering  as  a  napkin, 
righly  embroidered  with  gold  and  also  with  stained 
porcupine  quills,  which  latter  mode  of  ornamen- 
tation was  rather  inconvenient,  and  might  have 
been  dispensed  with. 

The  first  course  having  been  demolished,  the 

our  best  to  credit  that  the  unfortunate  monarch,  in  question, 
drank  one  gallon  a  day  ;  and,  if  true,  he  must  have  had  wonder- 
fully  great  swallowing  capacities.  The  drink,  however,  is  ex- 
quisite, tasting  somewhat  like  harlequin  ice  cream  in  a  melted 
state. 


DINNER.  75 

whole  table  service  was  cleared  away,  even  to  the 
cloth,  nothing  being  left  but  the  napkins.  While 
a  clean  cloth  was  being  put  on,  and  silver  plates 
given  to  each  diner,  servants  came  to  each  of  us 
with  silver  basins,  filled  with  perfumed  water,  in 
which  to  wash  our  hands,  they  being  wiped  on 
the  napkins,  which  were  now  removed,  and 
replaced  by  others  of  scarlet  and  blue  cotton, 
something  like  our  d'Oyleys,  but  deeply  fringed 
with  intermingled  threads  of  gold  and  silver. 

Fruits  were  now  placed  on  the  table ;  bananas, 
pine  apples,  lemons,  citrons,  oranges,  &c. ;  and 
here  another  singular  beverage  appeared,  of  a 
perfectly  white  colour,  being  composed  of  milk 
from  the  cow  tree,  flavoured  with  pine  apple  juice, 
and  sweetened  by  being  stirred  with  fresh  sugar 
cane.  Pulque  was  on  the  boar^in  silver  vases  of 
very  graceful  forms,  but  I  do  not  think  any  of 
us  touched  it.  I  know  that  I  would  not  taste  it 
on  any  account,  having  done  so,  once,  in  Vera 
Cruz.  The  repast  ended  with  a  second  goblet  of 
chocolatl,  which  none  now  hesitated  about  drain- 
ing. 

Not  long  after  dinner,  we  received  a  visit  from 
an  individual,  who  announced  himself  as  Palayna, 
an  officer  of  the  Inca's  household,  who  had  been 
sent  to  take  us  to  the  Tianguez,  that  we  might 
select  a  stall  for  the  sale  of  our  merchandize. 


76  A  PROMENADE. 

"We  acknowledged  Orteguilla's  kindness,  notwith- 
standing that  we  thought  him  to  be  rather  pre- 
mature,— and  set  out  with  his  messenger,  for  the 
market  place. 

On  the  way  to  it  we  passed  several  small,  but 
magnificent  palaces,  surrounded  by  large  gar- 
dens,— which,  Palayna  informed  us,  were  the 
residences  of  the  higher  officers  of  state,  and  the 
street  was  named,  that  of  the  Nobles.  After  a 
much  longer  walk  than  we  had  bargained  for,  the 
street  opened  into  the  Tianguez.  On  our  left 
rose  a  majestic  edifice,  composed  of  three  stories, 
each  succeeding  one  being  smaller  than  the 
last,  so  that  the  flat  roof  of  the  lowest  formed  a 
terrace  around  the  second,  and  so  on,  while  the 
separate  stories  were  reached  by  an  immense 
flight  of  steps.  Our  guide  told  us  that  this  was  the 
Court  of  Justice  belonging  to  the  Tianguez,  and 
accompanied  us  into  it,  where  we  were  received 
by  three  natives,  dressed  in  long  blue  robes,  whom 
we  conjectured  to  be  the  judges.  Nor  were  we 
wrong,  for  we  had  not  been  in  the  building  five 
minutes,  when  a  crowd  of  natives  rushed  in,  hav- 
ing in  their  midst  a  man,  who,  from  his  dress, 
we  knew  to  be  a  vendor  in  the  Tianguez.  All 
those  who  had  come  in  began  to  accuse  him, — 
with  amazing  volubility, — of  having  sold  some 
bad  fruit,  which  was  brought  in  to  prove  their 


A  PROMENADE.  77 

assertion.  The  judges  soon  despatched  the  case 
by  making  the  prisoner  eat  the  fruit,  which  he 
did  with  much  distaste,  and  then  went  away, 
after  leaving  some  money  on  a  table.  This  money 
consisted  of  plates  of  silver  about  as  thick  as 
a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  and  nearly  three  quarters 
of  an  inch  square,  perfectly  plain  and  having  a 
small  round  hole  in  the  centre.  I  should  think 
that  one  was  worth  about  thirty  two  cents.  One 
of  the  judges  told  me  that  it  was  called  an  ochol, 
and  that  there  were  others  of  bronze  and  gold ; 
one  of  the  latter  he  showed  me.  It  was  much 
smaller  than  the  silver  one,  although  of  the  same 
shape.*  He  appeared  much  surprised  at  my 
never  having  seen  one  before,  and  asked  what 


*  I  subsequently  found  that,  by  weight,  a  gold  ochol  was 
worth  $3  and  nearly  twenty-five  cents ;  but  there  is  another  way, 
and,  in  my  opinion,  a  fairer  one,  of  computing  the  commercial 
value  of  foreign  coins; — that  by  comparison  through  the  medi- 
um of  a  commodity  common  to  both  countries.  A  gojd  ochol 
will  purchase  4  nailles  of  wheat,  one  of  which  is  equal  to  four 
and  a  half  of  our  bushels.  To-day  in  Philadelphia  (August 
2nd,  1849)  white  wheat  is  selling  for  $1.12£  ;  consequently  an 
ochol  would  be  worth  $20.25  to-day. 

A  silver  ochol  is, — by  a  similar  computation, — equal  to 
$3.37  J,  as  six  of  them  make  a  gold  one  ;  and  one  of  bronze, — ten 
making  a  silver  ochol, — is  of  value  to  the  amount  of  thirty-three 
cents,  seven  mills  and  a  half,  which  is  near  enough  to  say  thirty- 
four  cents. 


78  THE  TIANGUEZ. 

they  used  in  the  north ;  so  I  took  out  my  purse 
and  showed  him  some  of  our  coins,  of  each 
of  which  I  fortunately  had  a  specimen.  The 
three,  and  Palayna,  looked  at  them  with  great 
curiosity,  and  much  admired  the  eagles  on  the 
reverse  of  the  coins.  Ned  mystified  them  by  dis- 
playing a  gold  Brazilian  Johannes,  which  he  hap- 
pened to  have  with  him, — and  by  telling  that  it 
was  the  principal  coin  of  the  country  in  which 
they  lived.  Of  course  they  could  not  understand 
that,  but  they  examined  and  highly  praised  its 
beauty,  which  I  never  could  find  out,  with  all  my 
superior  civilization. 

We  conversed,  for  some  time,  about  matters 
and  things  in  our  respective  nations,  and  at  last 
took  leave,  entering  the  Tianguez.*  This  im- 
mense inclosure  is  entirely  surrounded  by  a 
very  low  piazza,  forty  feet  wide  and  only  seven 
high,  supported  by  four  rows  of  granite  piers 
about  .two  feet  square,  dividing  it  into  stalls 
twelve  feet  broad. f  In  these  stalls  were  displayed 
all  the  different  products  and  manufactures  of 
the  valley,  while  around  the  fountains  in  the 

*  By  subsequent  measurement,  I  found  it  to  be  one  mile  and 
nearly  a  half  long  by  an  average  width  of  half  a  mile.  It  is 
exceedingly  irregular  in  its  form,  although  those  which  I  saw 
in  other  cities  were  perfectly  square  and  much  smaller. 

t  See  Appendix  Number  one. 


THE    TIANGUEZ.  79 

centre  were  large  droves  of  llamas,  vicunas,  &c., 
secured  in  their  folds  and  tended  by  their  herds- 
men. In  the  southeastern  portion  of  the  Tian- 
guez  a  great  many  stalls  were  occupied  as  work- 
shops for  the  manufacture  of  chairs,  tables,  and 
other  wooden  articles,  and  others  as  stone  cut- 
ting establishments,  which  operation  was  most 
laboriously  undertaken  with  tools  of  a  bronze 
composed  of  copper  with  an  alloy  of  tin. 

After  walking  all  the  way  round  the  crowded 
place,  we  selected  a  stall  on  the  northern  side, 
and  set  out  on  our  return  to  the  palace.  Palay- 
na  told  us  that,  notwithstanding  the  enormous 
size  of  the  market-place,  there  were  two  others 
within  the  walls  of  the  city;  a  large  circular  one 
near  the  banks  of  the  lake  of  Coxxoc,  and  the 
other,  much  smaller,  six  miles  to  the  east  of  the 
one  in  which  we  then  were.  Besides  these,  he 
said  there  were  two  streets  entirely  appropriated 
to  stalls  and  warehouses,  together  with  factories, 
one  of  which  was  called  the  '  Street  of  Facto- 
ries,' and  the  other  the  i  Street  of  the  Colucatl- 
tepec.' 

We  soon  got  home,  and  Palayna  took  his  leave, 
not,  however,  before  announcing  that  the  Inca 
would  give  us  an  audience  the  next  morning,  and 
dropping  a  few  hints  in  regard  to  the  presents 
which  would  be  expected  from  us. 


80  CLOSE    OF   FIRST   DAY. 

As  soon  as  he  was  off,  we  began  unpacking 
our  bales  to  see  what  we  had  fit  for  a  present  to 
so  '  great  and  distinguished'  a  personage  as  an 
Inca,  and  fortunately  were  able  to  decide  before 
supper,  which  was  served  at  eight,  and  which 
I  have  reason  to  expect,  was  a  meal  we  introduced 
for  the  first  time  into  the  valley.  As  we  now  knew 
the  way  to  the  dining  room,  we  proceeded  there, 
an,d  found  it  brilliantly  illuminated  by  numerous 
golden  candelabras,  supporting  large  terra-cotta 
cups  filled  with  some  sort  of  burning  fluid  highly 
perfumed  with  orange.  The  supper  itself  was  near- 
ly such  as  we  had  eaten  every,  night  during  our 
journey,  with  the  important  exception  of  the 
gold  service,  the  tortillas,  and  the  Chocolatl, 
which  again  made  its  appearance  in  the  same 
way  as  it  had  at  dinner. 

Having  partaken  of  this,  we  ascended  to  the 
flat  roof,  where  we  enjoyed  a  fine  panoramic 
view  of  the  city,  first  by  the  singular  effect  of 
the  fires,  and  then,  by  moonlight — after  which 
we  walked  about  in  the  park  until  after  ten,  when 
we  went  into  our  chambers. 

I  found  mine  lit  up  with  hanging  lamps,  one 
between  every  column  around  the  fountain. 
That  night  I  slept  soundly,  and  so  closed  the 
first  day  in  the  city  of  Geral, — Monday,  October 
llth. 


81 


CHAPTER  XL 

The  Audience. — Exchange  of  presents. — An  Afternoon's  Ram- 
ble in  Search  of  Sights.— The  Streets. 

TUESDAY,  October  12th. — I  did  not  hurry  my- 
self about  rising  this  morning  and, — although, 
by  the  force  of  habit,  I  awoke  before  dawn, — I 
put  myself  to  sleep  again  by  rejoicing  that  there 
was  nothing  to  prevent  me  from  so  doing.  0  ! 
it  was  delightful !  and  I  positively  believe  that  I 
was  more  refreshed  by  those  three  hours  of  extra 
snoosing,  than  I  had  been  by  all  the  rest  of  the 
night.  However,  at  seven,  I  roused  myself,  and 
after  bathing  at  the  cool  fountain,  dressed  and 
left  my  chamber,  at  the  entrance  of  which  I  met 
Ned  who  was  coming  to  see  if  I  was  sick,  from 
having  slept  so  much  longer  than  usual. 

After  we  had  breakfasted,  he  and  I  put  the 
presents  for  Orteguilla  on  a  mule,  and,  saddling 
our  horses,  went  to  make  ourselves  spruce  for 
the  audience.  At  half  past  ten  or  thereabouts, 
the  gates  of  the  park  gave  admittance  to  Onalpo, 
— an  officer  of  the  house-hold,  bearing  a  long 


82  THE    AUDIENCE. 

Peruvian  word  as  a*title,  the  exact  interpretation 
of  which  is  Lord  of  the  Gates, — who  had  been  sent 
with  a  goodly  train  of  attendants,  by  the  Inca, 
to  conduct  us  to  the  royal  palace,  Orteguilla 
having  sense  enough  to  know  that  we  could  not 
find  the  way  ourselves.  Ned  and  I  mounted  and 
started  at  eleven  o'clock,  with  Peter  and  the 
mule  behind  us,  and  surrounded  by  a  number  of 
Onalpo's  attendants. 

After  a  ride  of  over  two  miles,  we  entered  the 
gates  of  a  park,  and  found  ourselves  before  the 
Inca  Palace,  which  is,  at  least,  sixty  feet  high, 
although  consisting  of  but  one  story, — and  of 
monstrous  size.  But  what  struck  me  as  singular, 
directly  I  approached  the  building,  was  that  the 
front  only  is  of  stone,  the  sides  and  outbuildings 
being  of  wood.  It  has  four  large  staircases  in  front, 
which  strongly  resembles  that  of  the  Palace 
we  occupy.  I  had  not  much  time  or  opportunity 
to  examine  it  this  morning,  as  we  merely  went 
towards,  not  along,  the  side-  It  is  very  different 
from  ours  in  one  particular,  and  that  is,  that  it 
stands  on  a  terrace,  raised  four  or  five  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  ascended  to,  by  means  of  a 
flight  of  very  steep  steps,  at  the  foot  of  which 
we  were  obliged  to  leave  the  horses,  but  brought 
muley  with  us.  The  terrace  was  covered  with 
natives  in  their  peace  costumes,  glittering  with 


THE    AUDIENCE.  88 

precious  stones  and  metals,  but  they  moved 
aside  so  as  to  form  an  alley  for  us  to  pass 
through,  actuated — I  expect, — more  by  a  fear  of 
the  mule  than  by  a  wish  to  please  us. 

We  first  entered  a  large  hall,  were  Onalpo 
slipped  off  his  sandals,  covered  his  handsome 
dress  with  a  long  black  robe,  and  strapping  a 
small  bundle  on  his  back,  signified  his  readiness 
to  conduct  us  to  the  Inca.  Seeing  us  to  be  all 
impatience,  he  lifted  a  heavy  drapery,  and  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  threshold  of  a  broad,  and 
exceedingly  lengthy  saloon,  with  two  rows  of  gilt 
columns  running  the  whole  length  of  it,  and  lit 
by  the  immense  lattices  in  each  wall,  partially 
shaded  by  hangings  of  light  blue,  sprinkled  with 
small  golden  suns.  The  ceiling  is  of  carved  rose- 
wood, and  the  floor,  between  the  ranges  of  columns, 
is  covered  with  a  carpet  like  that  in  my  chamber, 
while,  between  the  columns  and  the  wall,  it  is 
composed  of  different  coloured  marbles,  as  well  as 
I  could  see,  from  the  immense  number  of  black- 
robed  nobles  standing  there.  At  the  end  of  the 
room,  opposite  to  that  at  which  we  entered,  is  the 
throne  of  the  Inca,  the  canopy  over  which  is  com- 
posed of  crimson, — so  richly  embroidered  with 
gold  and  jewels  that  the  ground  can  scarcely  be 
seen, — and  it  falls,  in  graceful  folds,  on  either 
side  of  the  chair  of  state, — from  a  golden  sun, 


84  THE  AUDIENCE. 

suspended  some  distance  above  the  throne.  The 
throne,  itself,  stands  on  a  long  dais,  covered  with 
white  cloth  embroidered  with  silver, — and  is  a 
gold  stool,  with  a  large  sun  behind  it. 

On  this  sat  Orteguilla,  with  the  llautu,  borla, 
and  the  sacred  robe  of  blue  resplendent  with 
jewels  of  great  value.  He  was  surrounded  by  all 
the  high  officers  of  the  realm,  in  black  robes,  un- 
sandled,  and  bebundled, — among  whom  I  easily 
recognised  the  Curaga  of  Ocopaltepec. 

We  left  the  mule  at  the  door  under  Pete's 
charge  and  entered.  On  seeing  us,  the  Inca  de- 
scended from  his  throne,  and,  advancing  to  meet 
us,  did  so  about  the  middle  of  the  room,  whence 
he  conducted  us  to  the  dais,  where  seats  had  been 
provided  for  Ned  and  I.  We  conversed  for  more 
than  an  hour  about  different  things,  but  princi- 
pally upon  our  respective  countries,  more  particu- 
larly about  the  United  States ;  in  regard  to  such 
subjects,  Ortiguilla  appears  to  be  greatly  inter- 
ested. • 

I  now  began  to  think  it  time  to  depart,  and  con- 
sequently  signalled  for  Pete  to  lead  the  mule  in, — 
over  the  beautiful  carpet.  But  if  I  had  no  scruples 
about  having  it  walked  on  by  her,  she  had,  and 
would  not  come  in.  Pete  coaxed,  muley  was  obsti- 
nate, and  though  he  alternately  pulled,  pushed,  and 
whipped,  not  a  step  would  her  ladyship  take.  At 


EXCHANGE  OF  PRESENTS.  85 

last  he  took  my  motioned  hints,  and  unloaded  her, 
bringing  the  articles  up  himself.  These  the  Inca 
accepted,  and,  after  examining  them  attentively, 
had  them  removed  from  the  throne  room.  In  a 
few  moments,  a  train  of  attendants  came  in  bear- 
ing a  return  of  presents  of  the  most  magnificent 
description,  one  of  "which  I  will  take  space  to  de- 
scribe. It  is  the  representation  of  a  bird,  the  body 
of  which  is  composed  of  the  most  beautiful  green 
feathers,  the  breast  being  variegated  like  that  of 
a  humming  bird ;  the  wings  are  of  purplish  black, 
and  the  long  tail,  of  brilliant  scarlet.  The  beak, 
legs,  and  claws,  are  of  gold,  partially  enamelled, 
and  the  eyes,  are  of  two  rubies,  each  set  round 
with  small  brilliants.*  It  is  about  two  feet  high, 
including  the  pedestal  on  which  it  stands. 

Having  understood  from  Onalpo,  that  the  re- 
ception of  presents  was  the  signal  of  departure, 
we  took  our  leave,  and  returned  home. 

Dinner  over,  Ned  proposed  taking  "a  ramble 
over  the  city  to  see  what  we  could  see ;  so  he  and 

*  This, — and  many  other  valuable  presents,  received  at  vari- 
ous times, — is  still  in  my  possession,  and  together  with  all  the 
others  given  to  Ned  and  me  during  our  stay  in  the  valley,  form  a 
collection,  exceedingly  rare  and  curious.  If  any  of  my  readers 
should  ever  pass  through  Orangeburg  Co.,  S.  C.,  near  the  town 
of  that  name,  they  will  find,  easily,  my  country  box,  where  it 
will  be  shown  to  the  visitor  with  pleasure. 
6 


86  .      AFTERNOON'S  RAMBLE 

I  got  our  hats  and  set  off,  without  a  guide,  first 
for  the  Tianguez,  that  being  the  only  place  with 
whose  situation  we  were  familiar.  It  is  almost  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  palace,  and  we  got  there 
much  sooner  than  we  expected.  There  were  but  a 
few  stalls  occupied,  and  fewer  people  in  the  mar- 
ket place.  We  saw,  peeping  over  the  houses  at 
the  eastern  end,  two  pyramidal  structures,  each 
crowned  with  a  building,  and  we  bent  our  steps 
that  way  to  take  a  closer  view.  Leaving  the 
Tianguez  by  a  thoroughfare  called  the  Street  of 
the  Sun,  we  passed  one  block  of  houses,  and,  cross- 
ing a  street,  were  walking  on,  when  we  came 
against  a  bronze  railing  and  gate,  being  part  of 
the  enclosure  of  a  large  park,  in  which  stood  the 
two  edifices  mentioned  above,  and  also  three  or 
four,  long,  'low,  marble  buildings  on  the  ground. 

Finding  we  could  not  obtain  an  entrance,  we 
turned  to  our  left,  in  the  street  we  had  just  crossed, 
and  proceeded  along  it  for  several  blocks,  the 
park  still  continuing  on  our  right  hand.  After 
passing  three  streets  we  came  to  the  north  west 
corner  of  the  enclosure,  and  turning  toward  the 
east  we  walked  one  block,  when  we  saw,  a  short 
distance  before  us,  that  the  street  was  obstructed 
by  a  continuation  of  the  park,  so  we  went  into 
the  next  one  on  our  left,  which  was  narrow  and 
nearly  destitute  of  people, 


IN   SEARCH  OF   SIGHTS.  87 

We  loitered  along  this  for  five  or  six  blocks, 
when  we  became  aware  of  a  hum,  as  of  many 
voices.  Hurrying  on,  a  turn  in  the  very  crooked 
street,  displayed  to  our  view,  a  wide  thoroughfare 
— crossing  that  in  which  we  were, — jammed  with 
men  popping  in  and  out  of  the  lower  stories  of 
the  tall  buildings  which  were  erected  close 
together  all  along  both  sides  of  the  way.  We 
forced  ourselves  through  the  throng  to  one  side, 
and  saw  that  these  lower  stories  were  nothing 
more  nor  less  than  stores,  filled  with  all  sorts  of 
beautiful  things ; — armour,  gold  and  silver  servi- 
ces, vases,  tripods,  articles  of  clothing,  jew- 
elry, furniture,  &c.  &c.  &c.  Carried  irresistibly, 
towards  the  east,  we  tried,  ineffectually,  to  force 
ourselves  into  one  of  the  cross  streets.  We  then 
inquired  of  one  of  the  surrounding  crowd,  what 
was  the  name,  of  the  thoroughfare  in  which  we 
were,  and  were  told  that  it  was  the  Street  of  the 
Factories. 

Not  long  after,  we  crossed  a  broad  way,  also 
crammed  with  people,  and  this  current  overpower- 
ing the  other,  swallowed  us  up,  and  we  were 
carried  toward  the  north.  We  soon  learnt  that 
this  was  the  other  great  commercial  street, — that 
of  the  Colucatltepec.  In  a  few  moments  I  saw, 
not  far  before  us,  a  cubical  monument,  about  six- 
teen feet  high,  seven  feet  square  at  the  base,  and 


88  THE  STREETS. 

four  at  the  top,  of  white  marble,  surmounted  by 
a  large  silver  urn,  and,  as  we  approached,  the 
crowd  divided  on  each  side  of  it,  so  as  to  pass 
on. 

We,  however,  stopped  and  perceived  that  the 
marble  was  covered  with  a  hieroglyphical  inscrip- 
tion. Happening  to  glance  toward  my  left,  I  saw 
a  wide  street,  meeting  that  in  which  we  were,  at 
an  acute  angle,  and  pointing  it  out  to  Ned, — for 
the  noise  was  so  great  that  it  was  useless  to  speak, 
— we  darted  through  the  crowd.  We  walked  on 
pretty  fast  for  three  blocks,  and  again  came  in 
contact  with  the  Street  of  the  Factories,  through 
the  moving  multitude  in  which,  we  penetrated 
with  a  great  deal  of  difficulty,  and  in  course 
of  time  reached  the  Tianguez,  by  the  broad 
streets  around  which  we  escaped  from  the  pal- 
ace. 

In  the  Market  Place  we  were  informed  that  to- 
morrow will  be  a  market  day,  and  we  consequently 
came  home  as  fast  as  we  could,  to  commence  get- 
ting ready  to  move  our  merchandize  to  our  stall, 
which  I  do  not  think  that  I  shall  like  at  all.  I 
have  a  good  mind  to  apply  to  the  Inca  for  one  of 
the  Shops  in  the  Street  of  the  Factories,  and  if  I 
were  to  do  so,  I  am  pretty  sure  of  being  success- 
ful. 

Is  it  not  singular  that  since  I  have  crossed  the 


STAY  AT  HOME   FEMALES.  89 

Sierra,  I  have  not  laid  my  eyes  upon  one  of  the 
gentler  sex,  who  do  not  appear  to  stir  out  of 
their  houses.  Small  children,  also,  are  absolute 
curiosities.  What  a  comfort! 


90 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Tianguez. — Visit  from  the.  Inca. — A  proposed  Change  of 
Quarters. — A  Walk  to  see  the  Premises. — A  Remove. 

WEDNESDAY,  October  13th. — With  the  rise  of 
this  morning's  sun  we  left  the  palace  for  the  Tian- 
guez with  fifteen  laden  mules,  and  our  stall  was 
soon  open.  Our  stock  in  trade  to-day  consisted 
of  agricultural  implements,  spades,  rakes,  hoes, 
shovels,  &c.,  not  omitting  our  two  small  portable 
ploughs,  harrows  and  cultivators.  These  last  six 
articles  were  conspicuously  displayed,  and  attract- 
ed a  good  deal  of  attention. 

Three  hours  had  passed,  and  we  had  had  no 
business,  when  the  Inca  suddenly  popped  in  from 
the  back  part  of  the  stall  and  joined  us.  He 
examined  every  thing  and  appeared  much  inter- 
ested in  my  explanations  of  the  use  of  the  arti- 
cles. When  I  had  finished  my  account  of  the 
utility  of  the  plough,  he  said, — "I  must  see  this 
done,  xitulo,  (stranger).  I  will  come  to  you 
before  our  Master  (the  sun)  goes  to  rest  the  sec- 
ond time,  and  we  will  go  out  of  the  walls  and  see 
what  this  thing  does." 


VISIT  FKOM  THE  INCA.  91 

Soon  after  he  asked  if  we  had  seen  much  of 
the  city  as  yet,  so  I  told  him  of  our  yesterday 
afternoon's  walk,  at  the  same  time,  hinting  that 
I  should  prefer  a  stall  in  one  of  the  commercial 
streets,  to  that  which  we  had  in  the  Tianguez. 
Orteguilla  took  the  hint  readily,  and  promised  to 
let  us  have  one,  but  not  in  either  of  the  streets 
which  we  had  visited,  as  they  were  never  hon- 
oured with  the  presence  of  the  lords  or  ladies  of 
Geral.  That  which  he  is  going  to  appropriate  to 
us,  is  in  a  third  street,  which  he  called — "my 
street  of  stores,  the  Street  of  the  Ocelot."  We 
have  to  leave  the  palace  while  we  have  a  shop,  as 
it  is  necessary  to  have  a  guard  over  the  goods ; 
to  this  we  do  not  object,  and  told  him  that  we 
would  visit  the  street  first,  and  then  inform  him 
how  we  liked  it.  He  remained  with  us  for  some 
time,  and  then  took  his  leave,  but  we  stayed  at 
our  post  until  half-past  two,  when  we  packed  up 
and  departed,  just  as  rich  in  merchandize  and 
poor  in  pocket  as  we  came,  not  having  sold  a  sin- 
gle article. 

At  four  Ned  and  I  set  out  to  look  for  the 
i  fashionable  shopping  street  of  Geral,'  under  the 
guidance  of  a  native  servant  attached  to  the  pal- 
ace. We  left  the  park  by  the  southern  entrance, 
and  walked  along  the  walls  as  far  as  the  south- 
eastern corner  of  the  enclosure,  when  we  turned 


92  SHOPPING  STREET. 

to  the  right  into  the  thoroughfare  which  passes 
in  front  of  the  palace,  and  which  is  called  the 
Street  of  the  Huaxtepec.  Along  this  we  walked, 
passing  two  streets ; — the  third  was  that  of  the 
Ocelot. 

This  had  a  row  of  trees  on  each  side,  and  the 
buildings  were  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  standing 
in  large  gardens  and  overshadowed  by  palm  and 
other  trees.  There  was  not  a  foot  passenger  to 
be  seen,  beside  ourselves,  in  the  whole  street,  if 
we  except  the  carriers  of  the  numerous  splendid 
litters,  some  of  which  were  open,  but  the  greater 
part  closed  with  gilt  lattice  work.  The  for- 
mer were  occupied  by  the  curac,as  and  nobles  of 
the  Incalate  in  full  feather,  while  our  guide  told 
us  that  the  others  were  those  of  the  feminine  part 
of  the  upper  classes,  but  we  could  not  see  the 
occupants,  as  they  did  not  alight  to  visit  the 
shops,  but  were  carried,  litters  and  all,  into  a  hall 
before  each  establishment. 

We  went  down  this  street,  in  admiration  of  the 
beautiful  shops,  and,  at  length,  entered  the  park 
surrounding  the  Inca's  palace.  We  were  imme- 
diately conducted  to  him,  and  he  appears  to  be 
pleased  at  our  liking  f  his  Street  of  Stores,'  as  he 
invariably  calls  it,  and  promises  to  have  a  shop 
ready  for  us  by  the  day  after  to-morrow.  We 
remained  some  time,  and  as  we  left  he  begged  us 


PLOUGHING.  93 

to  visit  him  frequently  in  this  off-hand  manner. 
The  more  I  see  of  him,  the  better  I  like  him,  as 
he  appears  to  be  a  very  sensible,  indeed,  an  intel- 
lectual man,  and  to  have  a  very  sound  judgment. 
I  do  not  doubt  but  that  he  is  one  of  the  best 
scholars  in  his  little  empire. 

On  arriving  at  the  palace  we  found  a  present 
from  Conatzin, — one  of  the  chiefs  who  conducted 
us  on  our  arrival  in  the  city, — in  the  shape  of  a 
double  palanquin,  made  of  rosewood,  lined  with 
scarlet,  and  having  two  long  handles  at  each 
extremity. 

Thursday  evening,  October  14th. — We  spent  a 
good  deal  of  the  morning  in  practising  two  of 
the  horses  in  a  plough,  and  after  some  trouble 
got  them  in  presentably  decent  kelter.  About 
three  o'clock  a  train  of  litters  made  its  appear- 
ance before  the  principal  entrance,  containing 
the  Inca,  Cioaco,  Movoga*  Curaga  of  Poanago, 
Opanilla,  the  Lord  of  the  plains,  and  many  dig- 
nitaries, with  fine  faces  and  long  names. 

A  litter  had  been  provided  for  Ned  and  another 
for  me,  so  that  we  had  not  an  oportunity  of  using 
Conatzin's  gift.  We  got  in,  the  servants  mount- 
ed their  horses,  leading  two  mules  loaded  with 
the  implements  to  be  tried,  and  the  two  horses 
who  were  to  pull  these,  followed  Peter  and  John, 
because  they  had  to,  being  fastened  by  ropes  to 
6* 


94  AGRICULTURAL    EXPERIMENTS. 

the  tails  of  the  animals  ridden  by  those  two 
men.  The  cortege  started.  Ascending  the  ter- 
races of  the  Huaxtepec,  and  leaving  the  city  by 
a  small  gate,  it  issued  forth  upon  the  great  pla- 
teau, before  the  walls,  which  was  to  be  the  scene 
of  our  operations. 

The  parts  of  the  implements  were  taken  off 
the  mules,  put  together,  horses  attached,  and 
several  furrows  made  with  the  plough,  much  to 
the  satisfaction,  of  the  Inca  and  his  suite,  who 
had  descended  from  their  litters,  in  order  to 
watch  the  proceedings  more  narrowly.  With 
equal  success  but  not  with  equal  advantages,  the 
other  machines  were  tried,  and  the  result  of  the 
expedition,  exhibition,  and  experiments,  was 
that  Orteguilla  determined  to  introduce  all  of 
them,  on  his  own  lands,  to  be  drawn  by  llamas ; 
— and,  what  was  of  much  more  consequence  to 
us,  he  purchased  the  six  on  the  spot.  Having 
packed  up,  we  returned  to  the  city,  so  tired  that 
I  can  scarcely  write,  and  will  say  no  more,  save 
that  of  all  uncomfortable  conveniences  for  trans- 
portation, give  me  an  old  stage  on  a  rutty  road, 
rather  than  a  litter. 

The  day  subsequent  to  our  agricultural  trip, 
we  received  word  from  Apixtamatl,  the  Lord  of 
Huax,  and  also  the  Inca's  secretary, — if  I  may 


PROPOSED    REMOVAL.  95 

use  that  word, — that  '  the  stall  of  eight  sides,'  in 
the  Street  of  the  Ocelot,  was  ready  for  our  re- 
ception. So  we  instantly  prepared  for  a  remove 
to  the  establishment  indicated.  The  merchandize 
was  put  on  the  mules,  the  horses  were  saddled, 
and  away  we  went  guided  by  the  attendant  who 
brought  the  message. 

In  twenty  minutes  we  entered  a  large  garden, 
ornamented  with  several  small  fountains,  beds  of 
flowers,  and  groups  of  trees.  In  the  middle  of 
the  front  of  this  garden  was  a  good-sized,  octa- 
gon-shaped, building  of  white  marble,  open 
in  front,  the  roof  being  supported  by  six  orien- 
tal-like columns.  Passing  between  these  we  en- 
tered a  hall,  in  the  shape  of  a  trapeaoid,  paved 
with  marble.  Opposite  to  the  entrance  were 
four  moro  pillars,  like  the  others,  permitting  a 
view  of  the  room  in  the  heart  of  the  erection. 
On  either  side  of  the  hall  was  an  aperture  fitted 
with  a  strong  bronze  gate,  partially  concealed, 
as  were  the  whole  of  the  walls,  by  hangings  of 
pale  pink  embroidered  in  silver.  The  ceiling 
was  of  polished  rosewood,  and  though  there  was 
no  skylight  there  was  a  fountain.  Leaving  this 
hall  we  entered  the  central  apartment  which  was 
octagon  in  form,  having  a  diameter  of  over  forty 
feet.  The  roof,  which  was  much  more  elevated 
than  that  of  the  hall,  was  composed  of  cedar, 


96  NEW   QUARTERS. 

richly  carved,  and  ascended  on  a  slight  angle  to 
meet  the  skylight, — by  which  the  room  was  lit, 
— under  which  sparkled  a  fountain  in  a  porphy- 
ry basin.  There  were  no  columns  except  the  four 
leading  into  the  hall,  and  the  floor  was  composed  of 
different  coloured  marbles.  The  tapestry  on  the 
walls  was  of  a  bright  mazarine  blue,  embroidered 
with  silver,  and  curtains  of  the  same,  concealed 
the  entrances  to  the  room,  which  were  three  in 
number,  without  counting  that  of  the  hall. 
About  the  room  were  scattered  a  great  many 
large  tables,  and  seats  of  all  kinds, — it  was  the 
<  stall !' 

Reentering  the  hall,  and  passing  through  the 
opening  on  the  right,  we  found  ourselves  on  the 
threshold  of  a  saloon,  of  precisely  the  same  size 
and  shape  as  the  hall ;  and  a  second  succeeded, 
similar  to  the  first,  save  that  it  communicated 
with  the  shop.  After  this  second  saloon  came 
my  chamber.  The  aperture  on  the  left  hand 
side  of  the  hall,  led  first  into  Ned's  room, 
and  then  into  two  more,  appropriated  to  the 
three  servants.  These  six  rooms  were  all  lit  by 
small  skylights  and  had  fountains.  The  eighth 
room  corresponded  to  the  hall  and  was  used  as  a 
dining  room,  and  a  door,  or  opening  in  it,  oppo- 
site the  entrance  from  the  shop,  communicated 
with  the  culinary  department,  and  lodgings  of 


NEW   QUARTERS.  97 

the  native  servants,  who  were  as  numerous  here, 
— in  proportion — as  in  the  palace. 

I  hope  that  this  will  give  a  distinct  idea  of  our 
temporary  habitation,  in  which,  immediately  upon 
our  arrival,  we  began  to  arrange  our  goods  for  the 
next  day's  business. 


98 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The '  Stall.'— Inca's  Visit.— The  Incaress.*— Moderate  Prices.— 
Business. — Sunday. 

ON  Saturday  morning,  at  nine  o'clock,  we  open- 
ed our  front  gates,  and  those  leading  into  the 
shop,  seating  ourselves,  in  the  latter,  to  wait 
patiently  for  customers,  surrounded  by  velvets, 
silks,  brocades,  laces,  muslins,  shawls,  and  some 
rather-out-of-place  rugs.  Beside  these,  on  a  very 
large  table,  were  displayed  two  magnificient 
Persian  carpets, — which  I  mentioned  in  chapter 
third, — while  four  more  were  spread  on  the  floor. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  all  these  articles  had 
been  confided  to  our  care  for  a  trade  with  Lima 
or  Quito,  in  which  cities  foreign  goods  sell  like 
lightning  from  their  superiority  over  the  native 
manufactures,  and  also  from  their  scarcity. 

We  had  not  been  open  five  minutes  when  a  litter 
was  carried  into  the  hall  and  Orteguilla  descended 
from  it.  I  went  forward  to  meet  him,  but  he 

This  most  untranslatable  word  I  have 
rendered  above  in  the  best  way  I  could, 
although  in  the  text  I  shall  use  Empress, 
as  more  pronounceable. 


INCA'S  VISIT.  99 

hardly  said  a  word  as  he  gazed  fixedly  upon  the 
articles  displayed  in  the  shop.  "How  is  this  ?" 
he  asked;  "two  Suns  ago  I  saw  your  goods. 
They  were  all  sharp  and  turned  up  the  ground. 
I  see  them  now.  They  are  fit  for  clothes.  How 
is  this  ?"  We  explained  to  him  that  we  had 
brought  many  different  kinds  of  things,  and  that 
those  he  now  saw  were  intended,  in  most  cases, 
for  the  use  of  the  other  sex.  He  examined  every- 
thing, and  purchased  a  Persian  carpet  with  which 
he  was  in  ecstacies,  going  away  soon  in  order  to 
bring  his  wife  to  us. 

He  had  not  been  gone  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  when  seven  or  eight  closed  litters  were 
brought  into  the  hall,  guarded  by  a  file  of  chief- 
tains in  full  costume.  The  palanquins  were 
opened,  and  each  permitted  the  egress  of  two 
ladies,  who  ranged  themselves  against  the  walls 
of  the  hall,  as  a  golden  litter,  also  guarded,  made 
its  appearance  on  the  threshold.  This  was  un- 
closed and  the  Inca  first  came  out,  followed  by  a 
tall  and  elegant  looking  female,  magnificently 
attired,  who  came  into  the  store  with  him,  attended 
by  all  the  ladies,  the  chieftains  letting  fall  the 
curtains  between  the  hall  and  shop,  and  guarding 
all  the  doors. 

"  Ahtelaqua,  my  wife,"  introduced  Orteguilla, 
addressing  Ned  and  I,  who  had  advanced  to  meet 


100  THE  INCA'S  WIFE. 

them, — "I  have  come  to  show  her  your  stall." 
We  saluted,  and  conducted  madame  to  a  seat, 
and,  while  she  gazed  around  at  the  new  goods 
presented  for  her  inspection,  I  took  a  good  look 
at  her  and  her  dress.  Her  long  brown  hair  curled 
in  heavy  ringlets  over  her  back  and  shoulders, 
being  confined  around  her  brow  by  a  golden  cir- 
clet set  with  precious  stones,  having  in  front,  an 
upright  ornament  of  serpents  twisted  around  a 
ruby  of  immense  size,  from  the  back  of  which 
rose  a  plume  of  white  feathers.  Her  complexion 
was  a  rich  olive,  her  teeth  like  pearls,  her  eyes 
large  and  expressive,  her  nose  slightly  aquiline, 
and  her  forehead,  high  and  intellectual  looking. 
Close  around  her  throat  was  a  gorget  of  blue 
cotton  cloth,  richly  embroidered  with  jewels  and 
silver,  and  from  this  depended  a  long  robe  of 
white, — also  embroidered, — confined  above  her 
waist  by  a  low  cut  bodice  of  blue  and  silver. 
The  skirt  was  very  full,  and  of  sufficient  length 
to  form  a  train,  which  made  her  look  taller  than 
she  really  was.  Her  arms  were  exposed  from  the 
shoulder,  where  were  fastened  long,  open  sleeves 
of  blue,  stiff  with  gems  and  embroidery.  Her 
small'  hands  and  wrists  were  a  mass  of  the  most 
valuable  jewels.  Such  was  Ahtelaqua,  and  her 
admiration  of  our  stock  was  unbounded,  which 
undoubtedly  showed  her  superior  judgment.  The 


MODERATE  PilICE4 

other  ladies,  who  were  scattered  over  the  room, 
in  groups  of  two  or  three,  sitting  and  standing 
without  much  regard  to  etiquette, — were  habited 
in  a  similar  manner  but  with  less  magnificence, 
none  of  them,  however,  had  the  right,— as  I  after- 
wards found, — to  wear  more  than  two  feathers  in 
their  circlet,  while  their  mistress  could  carry  as 
many  as  she  liked,  though  not  less  than  four. 

The  empress  nearly  made  our  fortunes  by  the 
multiplicity  of  her  purchases,  although  she  took 
but  one  of  the  Persian  carpets,  being  evidently 
frightened  at  the  tremendous  price  Grey  set  upon 
them, — two  thousand  gold  ochols,  very  near 
$7,500!)  which  when  Ned  mentioned,  I  turned 
completely  round  to  see  how  he  had  the  face  to 
ask  so  much ;  but  he  understood  the  business,  and 
afterwards  told  me,  that  he  charged  so  highly, 
to  afford  others  a  chance  of  getting  one,  as  he 
saw  glances  of  admiration  pass  between  the  atten- 
dant ladies.  He  was  right,  as  before  one  o'clock 
that  day,  the  other  four  had  been  sold  to  the  ladies 
of  the  suite  at  a  still  more  extravagant  price  ;  and 
in  this  manner  Ned  managed  with  everything 
that  Ahtelaqua  procured.  It  was  a  true  Yankee 
trick,  but  all  is  fair  in  trade  as  well  as  in  war. 

As  the  royal  party  was  beginning  to  show  signs 
of  an  intention  to  leave,  Grey  ordered  Harry 
Boyd  to  bring  in  some  prepared  tea,  that  Orte- 


102  L   j'.BtrsjNESS. 

guilla  might  pronounce  his  opinion  upon  that 
popular  beverage.  It  soon  came  in  two  goblets, 
one  of  which  I  gave  to  the  Inca,  while  Ned  pre- 
sented the  other  to  his  Empress.  They  approved 
highly  of  it,  so  much  so  indeed  that  I  thought  it 
advisable  to  give  Orteguilla  several  pounds  with 
full  directions  how  to  make  use  of  it,  while  Grey 
propitiated  the  future  good  will  of  the  Imperial 
Spouse  by  the  presentation  of  one  of  our  six 
beautiful  lace  veils,  and  soon  after,  the  whole 
party  departed. 

The  rest  of  the  morning  we  were  run  down 
with  customers,  for  the  Inca  had  been  seen  enter- 
ing, and  in  the  afternoon  our  stock  was  nearly 
cleared  out.  It  was  very  evident  to  us  that  our 
visit  to  the  valley  would  turn  out  a  profitable 
affair  not  only  to  ourselves,  but  to  our  consignors 
also. 

At  seven  o'clock  we  illuminated  the  shop  with 
hanging  lamps  and  groups  of  sterine  candles,  and 
again  it  was  crowded  to  suffocation.  Our  three  ser- 
vants were  called  in,  and  all  were  actively  em- 
ployed until  midnight,  when  we  cleared  the  shop, 
closed  the  gates,  and  retired  to  rest,  a  good  deal 
fatigued. 

The  next  day  being  Sunday,  we  kept  our  store 
closed,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  our  heathen 
visitors,  who  were  rather  provoked,  that  we 


SUNDAY.  103 

would  not  sell  anything.  We  spent  all  the  day 
in  the  house,  reading  and  receiving  visits  in  the 
morning,  while  the  afternoon,  and  part  of  the 
evening  were  employed  by  us  in  arranging  our 
stock  for  the  approaching  business  of  Monday. 
The  remainder  of  the  evening  was  occupied  in 
walking  in  our  large  garden,  where  I,  at  last 
thought  of  the  north  and  my  fireside,  for  we  had 
no  need  of  a  fire  or  anything  like  one,  the  heat 
being  very  great  without. 


104 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Selling  Out. — The  Chronology  of  Geral. — Another  Remove. 

ON  Monday  the  18th  of  October,  our  establish- 
ment contained  a  rather  singular  collection  of 
goods  to  be  seen  together.  On  one  side  were  the 
remnants  of  Saturday's  dealings;  on  another, 
cutlery  of  all  kinds;  on  a  third  were  tea  and 
sugar  boxes ;  on  a  fourth,  cooking  utensils ;  on  a 
fifth,  agricultural  hardware,  and  so  on  around  the 
room. 

Nevertheless,  we  were  as  busy  as  before,  be- 
cause we  happened  to  be, — for  the  time, — 'the 
fashion.'  Orteguilla  came  early  and  cleared  out 
all  our  hardware  at  an  immense  expense;  the 
ladies  of  the  city  entirely  swept  off  Saturday's 
leavings,  the  tea,  sugar  and  cooking  utensils,  of 
which  last  I  was  certain,  at  the  time,  that  they 
did  not  know  the  use,  and  I  was  not  astonished 
in  the  least  degree,  when — some  weeks  after, — 
while  visiting  a  palace  on  the  Manitepec,  I  saw  a 
brightly  polished,  copper  tea  kettle, — standing  on 
a  table  in  a  splendid  salon, — filled  with  flowers ! 

It  was  very  evident  that  another  day  would 


CHRONOLOGY  OF  GERAL.  105 

close  us,  and  such  was  the  case,  as  on  Tuesday, 
we  were  obliged  to  shut  up  before  noon. 

Tuesday  evening,  October  19th.  *  *  *  *  *.  So 
after  dinner  Ned  and  I  sauntered  down  to  the 
Royal  Palace,  and,  on  being  announced,  were  in- 
stantly admitted  to  the  Inca,  whom  we  told  that 
we  were  sold  out,  merely  awaiting  his  pleasure, 
to  go  back  to  the  old  palace,  as  we  were  residing 
in  a  situation  which,  if  immediately  taken  posses- 
sion of  by  another  merchant,  would  prove  profita- 
ble. Orteguilla  then  said  that  our  old  quarters 
were  at  our  service  for  any  length  of  time,  upon 
which  I  informed  him  that  we  intended  to  leave 
in  the  beginning  of  next  January  saying  the 
word, — without  thinking, — in  English. 

"Jan'ry!"  exclaimed  the  Inca;  "what  is 
that?" 

"  It  is  the  first  month  of  the  year,"  I  answer- 
ed, and  here  ensued  a  chronological  conversation, 
which,  if  I  wished,  I  could  not  give  word  for 
word,  and  shall  therefore  take  the  liberty  of  put- 
ting down  what  I  learnt  by  it. 

The  year  of  these  people  is  divided  into  fifteen 
months  of  twenty -four  days  each,  and  these 
months  are  subdivided  into  four  weeks  of  equal 
length ;  on  every  sixth  day  a  market  is  held.  The 
names  of  the  months  are  as  follows ;  Olab, — com- 
mencing on  the  tenth  of  June, — Canno,  Malan, 


106  CHRONOLOGY  OF  GERAL. 

Cop,  Koo,  Zina,  Naon,  Pavan,  Queloo,  Zapx, 
Kamem,  Geb,  Allac,  Memib,  Caxc, — the  days 
composing  the  first  week  of  every  month  are 
called  En,  Chi-en,  Mal-en,  Hun-en,  Oil-en,  Kab- 
en ;  those  of  the  second  week,  Ac,  Chi-ac,  Mal- 
ac,  Hun-ac,  011-ac,  Kab-ac ;  those  of  the  third 
week,  Cum,  Chi-cum,  Mal-cum,  Hun-cum,  011- 
cum,  Kab-cum ;  and  those  of  the  fourth  week, 
Ila,  Chi-ila,  Mal-ila,  Hun-ila,  011-ila,  and  Kab-ila. 
In  speaking  of  a  day,  its  name  is  placed  after  that 
of  the  month,  as  Caxc-Kab-ila,  which  is  the  last 
day  of  the  year. 

As  the  number  of  days,  given  by  the  above 
arrangement,  was  found  to  fall  five  short  of  the 
usual  and  proper  number  of  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five,  these  five  are  added,  regularly,  between 
the  end  of  the  month  Caxc  and  the  beginning  of 
Olab,  consisting  of  the  fifth,  sixth,  seventh,  eighth, 
and  ninth  of  June.  They  do  not  belong  to  any 
month,  and  are  named  Odar,  Nordo,  Caman, 
Sonn,  and  Tuled. 

Not  understanding  the  theory  of  the  Bissextile 
intercalation  of  a  day,  they  use  a  much  more 
exact,  but  less  convenient  method,  in  the  end, 
which,  singularly  enough,  is  precisely  like  that 
made  use  of  by  the  inhabitants  of  Yucatan  on  the 
discovery  of  that  peninsula  by  the  Spaniards. 
How  this  happened  I  will  not  attempt  to  explain, 


CHRONOLOGY  OF  GERAL.  107 

for  the  best  reason  in  the  world,  I  do  not  know 
myself,  and  am,  therefore,  unable  to  do  as  I  would 
be  done  by.  They  divide  time  into  periods  of  fifty- 
two  of  their  years,  at  the  end  of  each  of  which  they 
intercalate  twelve  and  a  half  days, — in  my  opinion, 
a  very  inconvenient  piece  of  business.  These 
cycles  are  called  by  them,  <  sheaves  of  years,'  and 
are  represented  by  four  bundles  of  thirteen  rods 
each,  which  are  placed  in  the  Council  house,  and 
from  which  the  reigning  Inca  takes  one  every 
Caxc-Kafi-ila. 

In  order  to  designate  every  year  of  the  cycle 
with  exactness,  they  divide  the  latter  into  four 
equal  parts,  representing  each  fourth  by  an 
arrow-head,  which  is  placed  in  four  different  posi- 
tions to  denote  the  separate  periods  of  thirteen 
years.  Dots,  from  one  to  thirteen,  inclusive,  were 
placed  in  regular  succession  before  the  years  of 
each  part,  and  the  four  arrow-heads  were  also 
repeated  with  them  in  order.* 

*  I  feel  convinced,  on  copying  the  above  from  my  journal, 
that  I  have  not  described  this  clearly,  and  therefore  give  the  fol- 
lowing table  of  one  cycle,  to  explain  my  meaning.  It  will  be 
seen  that  by  the  adjoining  simple  and  ingenious  arrangement, 
the  same  hieroglyphic  never  appears  twice  with  the  same  num- 
ber of  dots,  so  that  any  year  in  the  cycle  may,  at  once,  be  recog- 
nized. 


First  Part. 

Second  Part. 

Years 
of 
Cycle. 

Dots. 

Hiero- 
glyphic. 

rears 
of 
Cycle. 

Dots. 

Hiero- 
crlyphic. 

1 

A 

1 

O 

2 

<3> 

2 

4 

3 

& 

3 

o 

4 

.  .  .  . 

4> 

4 

.  .  .  . 

? 

5 

t) 

5 



,_,, 

6 

0 

6 



4 

• 

7 



A 

7 



^0 

8 

... 

t> 

8 

.    . 

? 

9 

... 

^ 

9 

^ 

10 

0 

10 

.    .. 

4 

11 

•• 

A 

11 

o 

12 

•  • 

0 

12 

.   .. 

f 

13 

•• 

9 

13 

0 

Third  Part. 

Fourth  Part. 

Years 
of 
Cycle. 

Dots. 

Hiero- 
glyphic. 

Years 
of 
Cycle. 

Dots. 

Hiero- 
glyphic. 

1 

. 

A 

1 

. 

o. 

2 

ci> 

2 

9 

3 

^ 

3 

^ 

4 

.... 

<^ 

4 

.  .  .  . 

fa 

5 

4 

5 



^ 

6 



•0 

6 

.... 

^ 

7 

? 

7 

.... 

o 

•• 

8 

i 

<^ 

8 

4 

... 

9 



4 

9 

..  . 

cc> 

10 
11 



^ 

10 
11 

•  • 

^ 

12 

.... 

-? 

12 

•  • 

I 

13 

.." 

i 

13 

.... 

^ 

... 

110 


CHRONOLOGY  OF  GERAL. 


They  count  their  first  sheaf  from  June  10th 
1535,  when  they  first  settled  in  the  valley: 
the  years, — according  to  the  civilized  reckoning, — 
in  which  their  cycles  have  commenced  since  that 
period,  are  shown  in  the  following  table. 


Cycles. 

Number  of  Years. 

Date. 

1 

2 
3 
4 

5 
6 

'  7 

52 
104 
156 
208 
260 
312 

1535 

1587 
1639 
1691 
1743 
1795 
1847 

The  present  year  (1847),  is  the  first  of  the 
eighth  cycle  and  is  thus  hieroglyphically  ex- 
pressed. 

/wvwvv* 


The  points  indicate  the  Cycle.  It  will  be  no- 
ticed that  seven  of  them  are  perfect,  while  the 
eighth  has  but  just  commenced. 


CHRONOLOGY  OP  GERAL.  Ill 

The  people  believe  that  in  the  twelve  and  a 
half  intercalated  days  of  some  cycle,  the  world 
will  be  destroyed,  and  are  prone  to  break  every- 
thing they  can  lay  their  hands  on,  thinking  it 
useless  to  keep  anything  whole,  as  it  can  be  of  no 
further  use  to  them,  if  the  sun  burns  them  up 
with  the  earth.* 

The  i  Days  of  Misery,' — as  these  nearly-baker's- 
dozen  of  calamitous  supplementaries  are  called, — 
having  occurred  this  June,  the  calendar  of  Geral 
is  even  with  ours,  for  the  time,  and  there  will  be 
no  more  breakage  for  fifty-two  years,  but  the 
scenes  then  enacted  have  so  distressed  Orteguilla, 
that  he  is  determined  to  avoid  them  in  future,  by 
a  new  arrangement  of  the  almanac, — if  he  can 
find  one, — and  asked  us  if  we  knew  of  any  method 
by  which  they  could  be  eluded.  We,  of  course, 
mentioned  our  own,  and  he  has  requested  us  to 
arrange  it  with  names  from  those  of  the  months 
and  days,  used  by  the  Geralians,  for  the  purpose 
of  proposing  its  trial  to  the  Council  of  Nobles.f 

*  I  have  since  found  that  the  manufacturers,  stall-keepers,  and 
labourers,  merely  shut  up  their  places  of  business  without  break- 
ing anything,  leaving  that  to  be  done  by  the  rest  of  the  populace, 
who  would  be  obliged  to  replace  their  domestic  articles.  It  is 
a  singular  fact. 

t  This  institution  is  the  only  one  I  met  with  in  the  valley, 
where  the  Lords  and  Curac.as  have  the  right  of  debating  the  sub- 


112  CHRONOLOGY  OF  GERAL. 

He  has  ordered  Apixtamatl, — his  secretary, — to 
attend  on  us,  so  as  to  be  able  to  inscribe  our 
almanac  in  hieroglyphics  from  our  dictation,  as 
Ned  and  I  are  sadly  deficient  in  that  sort  of 
writing. 

We  took  our  leave  at  six  o'clock,  and  returned 
to  the  shop,  where  we  packed  up  our  baggage  as 
quickly  as  we  could,  and  came  back  to  our  old 
quarters  in  the  palace  which  actually  feels  like 
home. 


jects  brought  under  their  notice,  the  Inca  being  absolute  in 
every  other  matter.  The  cases  which  are  permitted  to  be  carried 
before  them  are  limited  to  a  very  few. 


113 


CHAPTER  XV. 

The  New  Calendar. — A  visit  loan  Useful  Institution. — 
A  Present. 

FRIDAY,  October  22nd, — I  have  not  had  time 
to  spare  to  journalise  since  Tuesday,  on  account 
of  our  task  of  arranging  the  months,  weeks,  and 
days,  which  has  occupied  every  moment.  On 
Wednesday  we  made  out  an  ephemeris  precisely 
like  ours,  thirty  one  days  in  some  months,  and 
thirty  in  others.  This  we  dictated  to  Apixtamatl, 
who  appeared  to  meditate  upon  every  one  of  the 
words,  so  slowly  did  he  make  his  hieroglyphics. 
However  he  finished,  at  last,  about  half  past  four 
in  the  afternoon,  and  immediately  carried  his 
laborious  production  to  Orteguilla  while  we  went 
to  our  apartment  for  the  purpose  of  dressing 
ourselves,  in  order  to  take  a  walk. 

Just  as  we  were  putting  on  our  hats  in  the  hall, 
the  Inca  and  his  secretary  made  their  appearance, 
the  former  bearing  in  his  hand  the  abominable 
almanac.  Ned  dashed  his  palm-leaf  on  the  table 
with  an  audible  wish  that  Orteguilla,  Apixtamatl 
and  the  calendar,  were  in  a  considerably  warmer 
place  than  a  heated  Dutch  oven,  but,  notwithstand- 


114  THE    NEW  CALENDAR. 

ing,  he  followed  all  three  into  a  saloon.  Here  the 
Inca  made  his  objections  to  our  method : — there 
much  was  too  great  a  difference  in  regard  to  the 
length  of  the  twelve  months.  We  explained  the 
reasons  of  it,  but  that  would  not  do ;  he  wanted 
some  arrangement  by  which  the  duration  of  all 
should  be  the  same.  We  told  him  that  what  he 
had  in  his  hand  was  precisely  similar  to  the  length 
of  all  the  months  in  every  civilized  country. 
Nothing  would  do,  and  so,  after  supping  with  us, 
— staying  until  after  ten, — and  begging  us  to  try 
some  other  way,  he  took  his  departure. 

We  went  to  work  again,  and  all  day  yesterday 
were  employed  in  ineffectual  attempts  to  find  a 
suitable  plan.  It  was  not  until  late  in  the  even- 
ing that  we  fixed  upon  one,  which  was,  this  morn- 
ing, dictated  to  our  poking  amanuensis,  who  con- 
veyed it  to  the  Royal  Palace  at  noon.  Orteguilla 
has  expressed  his  satisfaction  with  it,  notwith- 
standing the  unavoidable  extra  length  of  one 
month,  and  has  announced  his  intention  of  placing 
it  before  the  Council  as  soon  as  possible,  which  he 
has  since  told  us,  will  be  on  Trina-Cum, — next 
Tuesday. 

An  hour  since  we  again  essayed  a  sally,  but 
were  once  more  frustrated  in  our  attempt  by 
another  visit  from  the  Inca,  who  came  to  invite 
us  to  accompany  him,  to-morrow  morning,  to  his 


THE   MINT.  115 

rnint,*there  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  him 
receive  his  income,  or  a  portion  of  it.  We  accep- 
ted, of  course,  as  we  have  a  natural  desire  to  see 
all  that  is  to  be  seen.  It  is  now  half  past  six, 
and  not  twenty  minutes  since  the  Inca  left.  Here 
comes  Ned  to  take  a /walk  with  me. 

Saturday,  October  23d.  At  ten  o'clock  this 
morning,  Ned  and  I  mounted  our  horses  and 
galloped  to  the  Royal  Palace,  where  we  found 
Orteguilla  waiting  for  us,  seated  in  his  litter  and 
surrounded  by  all  the  high  officers  of  the  house- 
hold and  the  city. 

After  a  slow  progress  of  two  miles  in  an  hour, 
we  stopped  before  a  large  building  on  a  low  ter- 
race. Dismounting,  we  accompanied  the  Inca 
and  his  suite  into  a  good-sized  hall,  from  which 
we  entered  a  room,  on  the  left  hand  side,  about 
thirty  feet  by  twenty,  the  floor  of  which  was 
covered  to  the  depth  of  nearly  a  foot  and  a  half 
with  silver  ochols.  In  the  next  room,  bronze  ones 
were  to  be  seen  in  even  greater  profusion,  and  in 
the  third  apartment,  the  gold  was  thrown  upon 
the  floor  in  immense  piles,  as  if  from  bushel 

*  In  this,  as  well  as  in  many  other  cases  of  the  same  sort,  I 
have  given,  instead  of  the  literal  translation  of  the  Geralian  word, 
that  which  we  make  use  of  to  designate  the  same  kind  of  insti- 
tution, or  custom,  or  whatever  it  may  chance  to  be,  that  I  wish 
to  mention. 


116  THE  MINT. 

baskets.  Passing  through  a  large  opening  we 
entered  a  long  hall,  communicating  with  the  ter- 
race on  one  side,  and  on  the  other,  with  a  vast 
interior  courtyard,  filled  with  natives  busily  en- 
gaged in  stamping  out  the  coins.  There  must 
have  been  over  eight  hundred  of  these  workmen, 
and  the  Inca  told  me  that  in  some  buildings, 
close  to  the  mint,  there  were  twice  as  many  more, 
all  unceasingly  employed  for  twelve  hours  every 


The  method  of  forming  the  coins  is  easy  enough, 
the  only  implements  required,  being  a  square  cut- 
ting stamp  of  copper,  and  a  heavy  mallet.  The 
first  is  placed  upon  the  sheet  of  metal,  in  a  proper 
position,  and  one  stroke  of  the  latter  suffices  to 
make  an  ochol. 

Orteguilla  took  his  seat  upon  a  dais,  and  two 
stools  were  provided  for  Grey  and  me.  Here  we 
sat  for  five-  hours,  '  like  Patience  on  a  monu- 
ment,— smiling  in  grief,' — and  hunger,  watching 
the  money  being  counted  into  scarlet  sacks,  by 
the  many  officers  attached  to  the  institution,  and 
hearing  the  report  of  the  latter,  read  by  our  ex- 
cellent Apixtamatl,  who  drawled  it  over,  as  he 
had  poked  over  our  calendar,  totally  unconscious 
that  the  two  strangers  were  wishing  him  at  the 
bottom  of  the  Lake  of  Naloma,  or  of  the  report. 
At  last  he  did  come  to  an  end,  and  then  the 


THE  MINT.  117 

scarlet  bags  were  brought  in,  and  placed  on  the 
backs  of  the  Indian  carriers,  who  started  off  on 
a  kind  of  trot  to  deposit  the'  money  in  the  maga- 
zines, which  are  in  the  different  island  fortresses 
and  fortified  palaces.  Each  sack  contains 
eighteen  thousand  ochols,  and  every  one  of  the 
workmen  carried  two  sacks. 

This  immense  sum  is  received  by  the  Inca,  once 
in  twenty-four  days,  one-third  of  it  is,  however, 
appropriated  to  the  Sun,*  and  another  third  for 
the  payment  of  salaries,  the  remainder  being 
solely  his,  to  do  with  as  he  pleases.  At  four 
o'clock  a  splendid  collation  was  served,  and  after 
we  had  partaken  of  it,  we  returned  to  the  Palace 
heartily  tired.  On  our  arrival  at  this  last  place, 
we  found,  in  each  of  our  chambers,  a  sack  of  gold 
ochols  as  a  present  from  Orteguilla,  which  we 
accepted  in  the  light  of  a  remuneration  for  hav- 
ing suffered  by  the  tiresomeness  of  the  ceremony. 
If  he  sent  it  with  this  intention,  there  is  no  doubt 
about  his  being  a  sensible  man. 

While  at  the  mint,  Orteguilla  conversed  with 

*  This  money  is  expended  for  the  sustenance  of  the  Priests 
and  Vestals  of  the  Sun,  and  for  the  support  of  the  poorer  Tern- 
pics.  In  the  same  way,  as  mentioned  in  the  text,  the  valley, — 
and  the  conquered  territories,  when  they  have  any, — is  divided 
into  three  parts,  and  the  Sun  lands  are  cultivated  for  the  benefit 
of  the  officiators  in  the  Temples. 

7* 


118  THE  MINT. 

us  for  some  time,  and,  among  other  things,  men- 
tioned a  singular  institution, — having  branches  in 
every  city  of  the  valley, — called  the  Tribunal  of 
Music.  He  has  explained  to  us  that  it  is  a  com- 
mittee, having  the  censorship  of  all  the  hierogly- 
phical  literature,  the  manufactures,  &c.,  and  which 
has  a  building,  where  are  placed  all  the  articles 
intended  for  their  inspection.  He  has  promised 
to  take  us  there  as  soon  as  possible,  and  I  do  not 
doubt  but  that  it  is  well  worth  seeing. 


119 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  Council  House.— Tribunal  of  Music. 

EARLY  on  Tuesday  morning  (October  26th)  we 
W£re  ready  and  waiting  for  the  Inca's  arrival,  and 
at  about  half  past  seven  we  heard  an  unmistak- 
able evidence  of  his  approach — his  band  of 
music  (?)  We  hurried  to  the  gate  and  joined  the 
long  procession  as  it  swept  past  the  Palace.  It 
went  up  the  street  of  the  Huaxtepec,  and  in  a 
short  time  stopped  before  a  square  park,  almost 
entirely  occupied  by  an  immense  circular  struc- 
ture of  white  marble  and  porphyry, — the  de- 
scription of  which  I  will  extract  from  my  journal. 

1  The  shape  of  the  building  is  defined  by  a 
double  row  of  vase-like,  porphyry  columns,  sup- 
porting a  stone  roof,  entirely  detached  from  the 
main  building,  being  at  a  distance  of  twenty  feet 
from  it.  The  edifice  itself  is  likewise  circular,  and 
is  surrounded  by  two  piazzas,  one  above  the  other, 
the  uppermost  being  accessible  by  four  broad 
flights  of  steps.  The  lower  story  is  entered  by 
four  large  openings.  The  interior  of  the  erection 


120  THE  COUNCIL. 

is  one  vast  circular  room,  open  to  the  sky,  and 
has, — at  a  distance  of  fifteen  feet  from  the  floor, — 
a  gallery  projecting  more  than  twice  that  distance, 
and  supported  by  a  row  of  columns  similar  to 
those  on  the  exterior  of  the  structure,  except  that 
the  inner  ones  are  overlaid  with  silver.  Towards 
the  east,  the  gallery  is  reached  by  a  wide  flight  of 
marble  steps,  at  the  top  of  which  is  placed  the 
Inca's  throne,  while  the  council  of  Nobles  is  seated 
at  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  and  facing  them.  The 
gallery  was  filled  with  ladies  in  their  magnificent 
dresses,  and  that  part  of  the  floor,  which  was  un- 
occupied by  the  numerous  Lords  and  Curagas, 
was  thronged  with  military  officers  in  their  gor- 
geous costumes.' 

Seats  were  provided  for  us  two  by  the  side  of 
the  Inca,  and  the  first  subject  discussed  by  the 
council  was  our  calendar.  Many  were  against 
change  for  very  excellent  reasons,  but  more  were 
for  a  better  arrangement  of  the  almanac,  and  the 
latter  carried  the  day,  after  a  conversation,  for 
they  separately  said  so  little  at  a  time,  that  it 
could  hardly  be  called  a  debate.  This  was  grati- 
fying after  all  our  trouble,  and  it  was  with  real 
pleasure  that  we  heard  the  Inca  declare  that  the 
change  should  take  place  on  Naon-Ollac,  (Novem- 
ber 5th,)  when  the  calendar  should  be  placed  in 
the  great  Temple  of  the  Sun.  Seeing  that  the 


TRIBUNAL  OF  MUSIC.  121 

council  was  about  to  take  up  another  subject,  in 
which  we  could  have  no  interest,  Ned  and  I  made 
our  escape,  and  returned  to  the  Palace. 

Several  days  now  passed  without  anything  par- 
ticular occurring,  as  we  did  nothing  but  go  shop- 
ping in  the  three  business  streets  and  pay  visits  to 
our  numerous  acquaintances,  sometimes  to  Orte- 
guilla,  who  occasionally  returned  them, — or,  at 
least,  came  to  do  so, — for  we  were  generally  out. 

Monday,  November  1st.  At  six  o'clock  this 
morning, — just  as  we  rose  from  our  breakfast 
table, — Orteguilla  arrived  with  a  few  attendants, 
to  escort  us  to  the  Tribunal  of  Music.  We  in- 
stantly put  on  our  hats,  ordered  Conatzin's  pre- 
sent to  be  brought  to  the  gate  of  the  Park,  got 
into  it,  and  set  out.  Our  beautiful  palanquin  is 
very  comfortable,  the  double  weight  preventing 
the  uneasy  motion  of  the  single  litter.  In  about 
half  an  hour  we  got  to  our  destination,  which  is 
a  square  building,  one  story  high,  and  surrounded 
by  an  immense  flower  garden,  beautifully  laid  out, 
and  containing  a  few  fountains.  The  edifice  is 
constructed  of  a  buffish  coloured  stone,  richly 
carved,  with  a  false  second  story,  pierced  with 
lattice  work  of  the  most  elaborate  description. 

We  entered  by  a  handsome  portal,  decorated 
%ith  the  most  delicate  carving,  and  found  our- 
selves in  a  large  room,  serving  as  a  vestibule, 


122  TRIBUNAL  OF  MUSIC. 

where  the  Inca  was  received  by  the  officers  of 
the  institution,  who  are  appointed  by  him,  and 
who  receive  large  salaries  by  law.  We  left 
this  vestibule  by  a  door  on  the  right,  entering 
the  business  apartment  of  the  Tribunal,  where 
we  saw  about  fifteen  natives,  squatted  on  the 
floor,  busily  engaged  in  recording  the  transactions 
of  the  officers,  in  hieroglyphics,  which  are  formed 
with  four  colours,  red,  blue,  yellow  and  green 
placed, — in  a  liquid  state,-— in  porcupine  quills, 
used  something  in  the  same  way  as  we  use 
pens. 

Leaving  this  office, — which  forms  the  south- 
western corner  of  the  building, — we  entered  a 
very  long  room  lit  by  large  skylights  and  lattice 
work,  and  having  a  continued,  broad  shelf  run- 
ning round  the  walls,  at  a  height  of  four  feet 
from  the  floor.  On  this  were  placed  hundreds 
and  hundreds  of  manuscript  hieroglyphical  books, 
in  various  forms,  some  being  rolled  up  like  the 
ancient  papyri,  while  the  greater  portion  were 
folded  up  in  the  manner  of  the  Chinese  and  Jap- 
anese books,  with  a  board  at  each  end.  At 
equal  distances  around  the  apartment  were  the 
readers  of  the  Tribunal,  seated  on  comfortably 
cushioned  stools.  All  these  works  have  to  be 
read,  their  worth  reported  to  the  principal  offi* 
cers,  and  a  stamp  affixed  to  them,  previous  to 


TRIBUNAL  OF  MUSIC.  123 

their  being  permitted  to  be  multiplied  and  dis- 
tributed for  sale.*  The  whole  of  this  is  done 
without  expense  to  the  author,  who  has  only  to 
send  a  copy  of  his  work  to  the  library  of  the  In- 
ca,  which  must  in  consequence,  be  of  great  size, 
and  which  we  have  been  invited  to  visit  when- 
ever we  wish. 

Besides  all  this  trouble  taken  by  the  tribunal, 
prizes  ara  given  to  the  writers  of  the  best,  and 
by  these  means, — Orteguilla  tells  me, — the  num- 
ber of  useful  works  is  greatly  augmented.  Hav- 
ing traversed  the  Literary  department,  we  went 
into  the  room  in  the  northern  end  of  the  build- 
ing, which  is  by  far  the  largest,  and  is  devoted  to 
manufactures. 

This  contains  six  broad  tables,  running  the  en- 
tire length,  beside  a  very  wide  shelf  around  the 
walls,  which  last  are  covered  with  specimens  of 
different  kinds  of  tapestry,  carpets,  variously 
colored  cotton  cloths,  feather-work,  furs,  striped 
stuffs,  figured  materials,  and  prepared  buff 
coloured  skins  embroidered  with  thin  pipes  of 
gold  and  silver,  or  with  stained  quills  of  the 
Brazilian  Porcupine.  Other  parts  of  the  walls 

*  I  was  informed, — a  few  days  after  this  visit, — that  in  the 
City  of  Geral  alone,  over  37,000  persons  found  employment  in 
copying  works  for  the  authors,  at  a  very  small  remuneration, 
and  of  these,  nearly  32,000  were  females  ! 


124  TRIBUNAL   OF   MUSIC. 

sustained  dresses,  armour,  and  warlike,  domestic 
and  agricultural  implements,  arranged  in  the 
manner  of  trophies.  On  the  shelf  were  placed 
tables,  stools,  ottomans,  and  other  large  domestic 
articles,  litters,  palanquins,  and  military  as  well 
as  civil  contrivances,  for  transportation;  also, 
the  larger  manufactures  of  a  demi-civilized  na- 
tion. 

On  the  tables  stood  gorgeous  services  of  gold 
and  silver  splendidly  wrought,  immense  vases  of 
the  same  metals  ;  tripods,  standing  censors,  in- 
cense tables,  candelabras,  of  bronze,  or  the  two 
above  named  precious  metals,  inlaid  with  mother- 
of  pearl,  or  jewels  ;  glittering  ornaments  of  dif- 
ferent gems,  beautifully  cut  and  set ;  glass  mir- 
rors, vases,  goblets,  pitchers,  dishes  and  an  un- 
countable number  of  other  magnificent  luxuries. 
All  these  articles,  are  merely  sent  to  the  Tribu- 
nal for  competition,  the  most  splendid  of  each 
sort  receiving  a  prize. 

On  one  of  the  tables  I  noticed  some  most  ex- 
quisitely formed  china*  services,  vases,  &c., 

*  The  reader  is  doubtless  surprised  at  finding  glass  and  china 
among  these  people,  but  I  solemnly  assure  him  that  such  is  the 
fact.  Pottery  was  practised  by  the  ancient  Peruvians,  but 
whether  the  art  of  making  glass  was  used,  or  even  known  I  am 
not  able  to  say.  There  was  sufficient  time  for  the  Spaniards 
to  have  taught  them  both  before  Toparca's  death. 


TKIBUNAL    OF   MUSIC.  125 

painted  with  flowers,  birds  and  figures,  in  vivid 
colours,  without  the  slightest  resemblance  to  na- 
ture, and  drawn  in  bold  defiance  of  all  the  rules 
of  perspective.  I  should  have  mentioned  before, 
that  the  mirrors  were  not  silvered,  but  were 
backed  with  black  cloth. 

We  left  this  room,  and  passed  into  the  central 
court,  as  the  remainder  of  the  edifice  consists  of 
the  private  apartments  of  the  officers.  In  this 
there  were  several  fountains  of  different  forms, 
carved  out  of  marble ;  none  of  them  very  hand- 
some. As  we  re-entered  the  vestibule,  in  order 
to  return  home,  the  Inca  raised  a  hanging,  on  the 
right-hand  side  of  it,  and  we  saw  a  small  room, 
lit  by  a  skylight,  in  which  stood  a  group  of 
figures,  as  large  as  life,  cut  out  of  a  softish  kind 
of  stone !  We  were  much  surprised  at  seeing 
such  a  large  attempt  at  sculpture  in  this  part  of 
the  world,  although  it  was  horribly  bad,  distress- 
ingly so,  if  it  had  happened  to  appear  in  one  of  our 
modern  galleries.  It  is  intended  to  represent 
Orteguilla,  Ahtelaqua,  their  son  Onameva,  and 
their  daughters,  Ineralla  and  Garoda ;  the  faces 
of  the  first  two  were  certainly  like,  but  not  by 
any  means  flattered;  the  originals  of  the  last 
three  we  had  never  seen. 

The  Inca  thinks  it  perfection,  but  I  have  seen 
many,  in  the  different  palace  parks,  and  streets 


126  TRIBUNAL  OF  MUSIC. 

of  Geral,  intended  for  fountains,  infinitely  bet- 
ter ; — there  were  two  small  figures, — about  forty 
inches  high, — meant  for  a  fountain,  standing  near 
the  large  group,  and  which,  in  my  opinion,  ought  to 
have  put  the  latter  to  the  blush,  so  many  times  bet- 
ter is  the  lesser  group.*  We  got  to  the  palace  at 
half-past  eleven,  having  been  four  hours  and  more 
at  the  institution,  and,  although  I  am  completely 
tired  out,  I  would  not  have  missed  the  visit  on 
any  account,  as  I  have  not  spent  a  more  agreea- 
ble morning, — to  the  best  of  my  recollection, — 
since  we  took  our  departure  from  the  United 
States. 

*  These  two  figures  I  purchased,  not  long  afterwards,  for  one 
hundred  and  fifty  gold  ochols,  (490  dollars,  about),  and  they  now 
form  part  of  my  collection.  The  name  of  the  sculptor  is, — or 
was, — Coan^otzin. 


127 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

An    excursion. — The     Upper    Lake. — Patapalanamit. — Iztina- 
pan. — Pocotatl. — Return  to  Geral. — Temple  of  the  Sun. 

NOT  having  anything  to  detain  us  in  town,  and 
the  weather  being  extremely  warm,  we  accepted 
an  invitation  from  Cioaco,  the  Curaga  of  Ocopal- 
tepec, — our  oldest  acquaintance  in  the  valley, — to 
make  a  short  trip  with  him  through  the  environs 
of  the  Capital,  and  started,  on  Tuesday,  Novem- 
ber 2nd,  at  dawn. 

The  Curaga  travelled  in  a  litter,  but  we  pre- 
ferred our  horses,  and  consequently  made  use  of 
them,  instead  of  the  splendid,  uncomfortable,  jolt- 
ing palanquins,  which  our  travelling  companion 
had  brought  for  our  use.  We  were  accompanied 
by  our  three  servants, — the  poor  mules  being  left 
to  take  care  of  themselves  in  the  park — and  Cio- 
aco had  a  tribe  of  his  household  attendants  in 
his  train. 

We  crossed  the  city  to  the  foot  of  the  terraces 
of  the  Geral-tepec,  and  ascending  them,  were,  by 
ten  o'clock,  on  the  lowest  of  the  northern  pla- 
teaus of  the  Sierra  Paricis.  Continuing  on  this, 


128  AN  EXCURSION. 

we  directed  our  course  towards  the  south  for  two 
hours,  until  we  came  to  a  stream,  which  we  fol- 
lowed for  about  twenty  minutes,  when  we  arrived 
at  the  '  Upper  Lake'  by  which  the  city  is  supplied 
with  water.  At  the  outlet  of  this  lake  into  the 
stream,  along  which  we  had  been  proceeding, 
there  is  a  waterfall  of  about  eighteen  feet,  at  the 
foot  of  which  are  situated  the  water-works,  exten- 
sive stone  buildings  with  water  wheels. 

We  were  admitted,  and  examined  them,  while 
a  meal  was  in  course  of  preparation.  The 
machinery  is  very  simple,  being  composed  of 
several  large  wheels  with  buckets  attached  to 
their  broad  edges.  The  lowest  of  these  throws 
the  water  from  its  buckets, — which  are  filled  by 
passing  through  the  stream, — into  a  tank,  eleva- 
ted some  distance  above  the  level  of  the  stream. 
From  this  tank  the  element  is  removed  by  a  sec- 
ond wheel  to  another  tank  higher  up,  and  so  on 
until  the  water  reaches  the  top  of  the  building, 
where  there  is  a  capacious  reservoir,  from  which 
it  is  distributed  through  the  city  by  means  of 
bronze  pipes.* 

At  a  little  before  three  we  started  again,  in  a 

*  The  learned,  or  travelled  reader  will  perhaps  recognize, — 
as  I  did, — in  the  above  described  machinery,  a  by  no  means 
slight  resemblance  to  the  *  Persian  Wheel?  so  much  used  in 
Egypt  and  Nubia, 


AN  EXCURSION.  129 

westerly  direction,  and  soon  came  to  the  walls  of 
the  City  of  Geral,  which  are  over  eighty  miles 
around,  enclosing  an  area  of  more  than  three 
hundred  square  miles,  of  which  three-fourths  are 
occupied  by  a  dense1  population,  and  the  remain- 
der by  scattered  blocks  of  habitations.  We  got 
outside  of  the  walls  by  means  of  a  pass  from  the 
Inca, — a  string  from  the  borla, — which  carried 
us  through  a  finely  defended  gate, — and  at  sun- 
set we  reached  the  little,  unwalled  town  of  Pata- 
palanamit,  situated  on  the  second  plateau  of  the 
Sierra.  Here  we  spent  the  night,  and  started 
the  next  morning  for  the  village  of  Iztinapan, 
where  we  breakfasted  at  the  house  of  Mixtecalt- 
zin,  who,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  the  chief 
that  conducted  us  from  Quauhtitlan  to  Geral,  on 
our  arrival  in  the  valley. 

From  this  village  we  had  a  commanding  view 
of  the  capital.  About  ten  we  took  leave  of  our 
kind  host  and  set  out  for  Pocotatl,  descending 
the  two  plateaus,  in  just  as  many  hours,  on  a  fine 
causeway. 

There  was  no  beautiful  scenery,  and  it  was 
excessively  hot,  so  we  wished  ourselves  in  the  pal- 
ace, and  that  the  Curacy  had  not  thought  of  asking 
us  to  accompany  him.  After  a  scorching  ride, 
we  arrived  in  the  above  named  town  at  dusk, 
retiring  to  rest  immediately,  in  order  to  be  pre- 


130  AN  EXCURSION. 

pared  for  the  return  to  the  capital  on  the  mor- 
row. 

Thursday  was  even  hotter  than  the  day  before, 
and  several  of  the  CuracVs  followers  gave  out, 
being  obliged  to  seek  shelter  in  the  numerous 
houses  that  lined  the  way.  At  six  in  the  evening 
we  reached  Onadella,  and  pushed  forward  over 
the  dikes  as  fast  as  possible,  in  order  to  get  into 
Geral  before  the  gates  were  shut, — we  were  just 
in  time.  We  were  glad  enough,  that  night,  to 
put  ourselves  in  our  large,  cool  chambers,  and  I, 
for  one,  slept  very  well,  notwithstanding  the 
fatigue  consequent  upon  such  a  long  ride,  and 
my  anxiety  to  see  the  ceremony  at  the  Temple  of 
the  Sun,  which  was  to  take  place  at  five  in  the 
morning. 

Friday,  November  5th. — Ned  and  I  arose  at 
fipur,  and  after  partaking  of  a  light  breakfast, 
proceeded  to  the  Inca's  palace  as  fast  as  our 
horses  could  go,  arriving  there  at  dawn,  (25  min- 
utes of  5.)  The  terrace,  ante-chambers,  audience 
room,  and  saloons,  were  all  illuminated,  and  filled 
with  nobles  in  their  magnificent  peace  costumes, 
glittering  with  gems,  for  this  was  an  occasion 
when  they  were  permitted  to  appear  before  the 
Inca  without  their  black  robes,  and  they  did 
ample  justice  to  the  permission  by  dressing  as 
gorgeously  as  possible. 


TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN.  131 

Orteguilla  entered  the  throne  room  almost  at 
the  same  time  that  we  did,  and  all  repaired,  at 
once,  to  the  street.  Litters  were  not  allowed, 
except  one  for  the  Inca,  and  he,  seating  himself 
in  it  gave  the  signal  for  departure.  Ned  and  I 
also  walked,  leaving  our  horses  on  the  terrace. 
After  passing  a  few  blocks,  we  came  to  the 
railings  and  gate,  which  had  prevented  our  pro- 
gress on  the  twelfth  of  October.  The  latter 
was  now  wide  open,  and,  on  passing  through 
it,  we  saw  that  we  were  in  an  immense  park, 
while  not  far  before  us,  were  two  tall,  semi- 
pyramidal  structures,  each  supporting  a  large 
terrace,  on  which  was  built  a  temple. 

We  ascended  t^the  terrace  of  the  most  eastern 
one,  by  means  of  a  broad  flight  of  steps,  the  foot 
of  which  was  guarded  by  two  serpent's  heads, — 
longer  than  those  in  front  of  the  Old  Palace,-^ 
their  bodies  forming  a  barricade  on  each  side  of 
the  flight.  All  around  the  edge  of  the  terrace 
was  a  stone  wall  about  twelve  feet  high,  covered 
with  basso  relievos,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  plat- 
form was  a  second  flight  of  steps  leading  to  a 
higher  terrace,  on  which  was  a  long  building  of 
the  purest  white  marble,  with  an  artificial  second 
story,  and  a  tall  tower  at  each  end.  In  front  of 
this  structure  the  platform  was  covered  with  the 
Priests  of  the  Sun,  dressed  in  trailing  draperies 


132  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN. 

of  white  embroidered  with  gold  suns.  Orteguilla 
was  received  at  the  top  of  the  second  flight  by 
the  High  Priest,  a  fine  looking  man  of  about 
thirty-five  or  forty  years  of  age,  wearing  a  sky 
blue  robe,  without  sleeves,  richly  embroidered 
around  the  throat  and  arm  holes  with  gold  points, 
and  on  the  remaining  portion  with  gold  suns. 
Around  his  neck  hung  a  large,  golden-rayed  disc, 
representing  the  orb  of  day. 

The  procession  now  entered  the  Temple  by  a 
long  hall,  filled  with  priests,  which  led  us  into  a 
monstrous  apartment,  the  walls  and  ceiling  being 
hung  with  skyblue.  A  broad  cornice  of  gold  en- 
circled the  room,  and  opposite  the  entrance,  hung 
an  enormous  convex,  circular* plate  of  gold,  at 
least  five  feet  in  diameter,  having  innumerable 
rays.  In  front  of  this,  on  a  long  dais  covered 
with  white  cloth  richly  embroidered  with  gold 
scroll  work,  stood  a  large  white  marble  altar,  with 
gold  ornaments.  On  the  top  of  this,  and  on  the 
front  edge,  was  an  oval  vase  of  the  same  precious 
metal,  of  exceedingly  graceful  form,  with'  two 
handles  of  twisted  serpents,  altogether  about 
eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  thirty  long  in  the 
oval.  Behind  this  was  placed  a  cabinet,  of  gold, 
three  feet  high,  magnificently  chased,  with  a  gate 
of  silver  studded  with  sapphires  and  topazes,  as 
were  the  brim  and  stand  of  the  vase. 


TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN.  133 

Around  the  altar  were  fifteen  more  vases,  of 
large  size,  representing  the  months  of  the  year, 
the  name  of  one  month  being  inscribed  upon  each 
vase,  all  of  which  are  arranged  in  the  order  of  the 
months.  In  these  immensely  valuable  vases, — 
they  are  of  solid  gold, — incense  was  burnt  during 
the  whole  ceremony,*  and  they  were  surrounded  by 
crowds  of  vestal  virgins  clad  in  robes  of  blue 
embroidered  with  gold  suns.  The  temple  was 
illuminated  by  perfumed  lamps  that  hung  around 
the  altar  and  cornice,  and  by  many  candelabras 
that  were  scattered  about  the  floor. 

A  moment  after  we  entered,  the  drapery  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  sanctuary  was  drawn  up,  and 
the  first  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  entering  the 
apartment,  paled  the  before  brilliant  lamps.  The 
High  Priest  advanced  to  the  altar,  and  lit  a  fire 
in  the  vase  of  sacrifice  upon  it,  taking  the  flame 
from  the  seventh  of  the  surrounding  vases.f  He 
then  approached  Orteguilla,  who,  after  receiving 
from  Apixtamatl  the  scroll  inscribed  with  the 
new, calendar,:]:  presented  it  to  the  High  Priest. 

*  The  incense  consisted  of  Tonquin  and  Vanilla  beans,  and 
the  fumes  of  these,  when  burnt,  are  yery  unacceptable  ;  enough 
so  to  make  the  Sun  turn  up  his  nose,  or  smell  some  Cologne. 

t  That  of  the  month  in  which  we  were  according  to  the  old 
style ; — Naon. 

t  This  calendar  I  have  placed  in  Appendix  Number  Two, — 

8 


134  TEMPLE  OP  THE  SUN. 

This  personage  held  it  over  the  flame  he  had  lit 
in  the  altar  vase,  and  after  reading  it  aloud,  with 
his  face  toward  the  rising  sun,  placed  it  in  the 
cabinet,  with  many  genuflexions,  while  the  priests 
and  vestals  sang  away  for  dear  life,  each  appear- 
ing to  sing  entirely  upon  his,  or  her,  own  hook. 
The  effect  may  be  imagined,  but  not  described. 
This  was  the  whole  of  the  simple  ceremony,  so 
we  immediately  retreated  to  the  terrace,  and  com- 
menced picking  our  way  down  the  steep  steps*. of 
the  pyramid,  at  an  imminent  danger  of  descend- 
ing faster  than  we  wished,  and  of  alighting  upon 
our  precious  nose. 

together  with  the  old  one, — for  the  edification  of  those  of  my 
readers  who  wish  to  know  how  time  was  reckoned  in  Geral, — 
for  that  year,  at  least. 

*  Excepting  this  flight  of  steps,  the  sides  of  the  whole  sup- 
porting structure  were  even,  slippery,  steep,  and  of  highly 
polished  granite,  being  totally  inaccessible. 


135 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A  Visit  to  the  Royal  Library. — An  Invitation. — The  Palace  of 
the  Manitepec. — An  Incident. 

MONDAY,  November  15th. — Ten  days  have  been 
passed  by  us  in  wandering  over  the  city  without 
any  particular  object,  and  it  was  not  until  this 
morning  that  Ned  bethought  him  of  the  invitation 
we  had  received  from  the  Inca  to  visit  his  library 
whenever  it  so  pleased  us,  and  we  consequently 
determined  to  go  at  once.  So  at  nine  o'clock  we 
set  out  on  foot  for  the  Royal  Palace,  and  after 
walking  through  the  Tianguez  to  see  what  was  to 
be  seen  there,  we  crossed  to  the  Park  and  ob- 
tained entrance  to  Orteguilla. 

We  sat  talking  with  him  for  some  time,  and  casu- 
ally mentioned  the  library,  which  we  were  again 
asked  to  examine.  On  acquiescing  to  his  pro- 
posal, we  followed  the  Inca  out  of  the  palace,  to 
the  southwesthern  corner  of  the  Park,  which  we 
left  by  a  handsome  bronze  gate,  and  were  con- 
ducted across  the  street, — that  of  the  Terraces, — 
to  a  large  garden  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  a 
building  of  white  marble,  richly  carved, — the 


136  THE  LIBRARY/ 

library.  Entering  the  structure  by  a  fine,  wide 
portal,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  hall,  hung  with 
mazarine  blue  tapestry;  passing  through  this 
vestibule,  we  stood  in  a  large  apartment  nearly 
filled  with  tables  which  were  piled  up  with  manu- 
scripts of  all  shapes  and  sizes. 

Orteguilla  tells  us  that  there  are  eighteen  sacks 
of  books,*  but  I  think  that  hardly  possible.  We 
poked  about  among  the  tables  for  at  least  two 
hours,  exercising  ourselves  in  the  art  of  hierogly- 
phics, and  then, — taking  leave  of  the  Inca, — went 
to  the  street  of  the  Ocelot,  where  we  hunted  up 
a  book  stall,  entering  and  depriving  the  same, — 
at  an  unwarrantable  expense, — of  divers  curious 
and,  no  doubt,  interesting  manuscripts,  of  which 
we  could  scarcely  make  out  the  titles.  Having 
commenced,  we  continued  shopping  until  nearly 
one  o'clock,  when  we  returned  to  our  Palace. 

I  neglected  to  mention  that,  while  we  were  in 
the  library,  we  received  an  invitation  from  Orte- 
guilla to  spend  some  days  with  him  at  his  country 
Palace  on  the  Manitepec,  where  he  intends  to  go 
on  Thursday, — the  eighteenth  inst., — and  the 

*  A  sack  holds,  or  is  supposed  to  hold,  eight  thousand,  it 
being  a  hieroglyphic  expressing  that  number.  This  would 
make  the  library  count  one  hundred  and  forty-four  thousand 
volumes,  which  is,  in  my  opinion,  about  twice  too  much.  I 
doubt  if  it  counts  the  forty-four  thousand,  letting  alone  the  hun- 
dred thousand. 


VISIT  TO  THE  COUNTRY.  137 

weather  being  so  very  oppressive,*  that  in  spite  of 
the  uninterestingness  of  our  late  excursion  with 
the  Curacy  of  Ocopaltepec, — we  accepted  without 
the  slightest  hesitation. 

The  next  two  days  were  spent  in  preparing  for 
our  visit  to  the  country,  and  we  found  that  we 
should  be  obliged  to  leave  two  of  our  servants  in 
the  city  to  take  care  of  the  mules,  as  the  natives 
were  too  much  afraid  of  them  to  attend  to  them 
well.  We  left  all  our  superfluous  baggage  in  the 
Palace,  and  were  accompanied  by  Harry  Boyd, 
who  was  to  take  charge  of  the  two  baggage  mules 
that  formed  our  train, — or  rather  to  cook  our 
meals,  as  we  had  not  lived  long  enough  in  Geral 
to  be  accustomed  to  do  without  tea  or  coffee, 
which  last, — although  it  grows  wild  on  the  north- 
ern side  of  the  hills, — they  do  not  cultivate  or 
make  use  of, — we  did,  often,  and  found  it  of 
superior  quality. 

Thus  divided,  we  started,  on  Thursday  morning 
at  daybreak,  for  the  Inca's  city  Palace,  where  we 
joined  his  cortege,  which  was  not  very  large,  as 
his  family  had  preceded  him  by  three  or  four 
days,  carrying  the  greater  part  of  the  court  in 
their  train. 


*  I  have  placed, — in  Appendix  Number  Three, — the  state  of 
the  thermometer,  as  I  noticed  it  during  my  stay  in  the  valley. 


138  THE   PALACE 

The  procession  of  palanquins, — we  used  Co- 
natzin's  present,  to  which  we  had  contrived  to 
fasten  two  riding  horses,  one  before  and  the 
other  behind,  harnessed  between  the  poles, — left 
the  terrace  at  six  o'clock,  and  traversed  the  city 
in  an  easterly  direction,  passing  by  the  numerous 
public  parks  that  ornament  that  quarter  of  the 
capital.  We  got  to  the  walls  at  ten,  after  hav- 
ing gone  about  nine  miles,  and  here  the  litter 
carriers  were  changed  for  the  third  time,  since 
the  cortege  had  started.  We  now  proceeded  on 
slowly,  skirting  the  bases  of  the  mountains. 

It  was  not  until  four  in  the  afternoon  that  we 
came  in  sight  of  our  destination,  and  I  never 
saw  a  more  beautiful  view.  In  the  triangle 
formed  by  the  bases  of  three  mountains,  terraced 
nearly  to  their  snow-capped  summits,  stood  a 
very  extensive  park,  having  a  high  railing  of 
gilt  bronze,  overshadowed  with  luxuriant  trees, 
between  the  bolls  of  which  could  be  seen  the  glis- 
tening of  white  marble  buildings  and  silvery 
fountains.  The  gates  were  thrown  wide  open, 
and  the  broad  avenue  of  trees,  along  which  we 
passed  to  reach  the  palace,  was  lined,  on  each 
side,  with  nobles  and  their  retainers,  all  in  gala 
costume. 

The  avenue,  I  should  think,  was  nearly  ^two 
miles  in  length,  winding  all  through  the  park, 


OF  THE   MANITEPEC.  139 

varied  by  beautiful  pavilions,  and  the  largest 
kind  of  fountains,  perfect  cataracts  of  water. 

At  last,  a  sudden  turn  in  the  wide  road  dis- 
played to  our  view  the  vast  edifice  to  which  we 
were  hastening, — a  mass  of  richly  carved,  and 
highly  polished  white  marble.  Ascending  to  a 
semi-circular  platform  by  four  shallow  steps, — 
they  might  almost  have  been  called  terraces,  as 
each  was  sufficiently  broad  to  admit  of  a  double 
row  of  columns,  of  the  usual  Geralian  form, 
which  supported  the  projecting  roof, — we  found 
ourselves  in  front  of  a  long  and  wide  hall,  sup- 
ported by  eight  rows  of  gold,  or  gilt,  pillars, 
each  row  containing, — as  we  subsequently  found, 
— fifty-two.  The  beams,  that  divided  the  ceil- 
ing into  squares,  were  carved  and  gilt,  while  the 
squares  themselves,  as  well  as  the  four  walls  of 
the  hall,  were  mirrors.  The  floor  was  of  white 
marble,  and  the  immense  vestibule  was  lit  by 
long  rows  of  skylights  between  every  other  range 
of  columns. 

This  hall  opened  into  an  enormous  circular 
room,  with  four  concentric  rows  of  porphyry 
columns  to  support  the  mirrored  ceiling,  in  the 
centre  of  which  was  a  large,  round,  skylight. 
Underneath  this  last  was  a  grand  fountain, 
which,  I  suppose,  had  figures  in  the  centre  of  it, 


140  THE  PALACE 

but  they  were  entirely  concealed  by  the  descend- 
ing torrent  of  water. 

Beyond  this  splendid  rotunda  were  the  suites 
of  rooms  intended  for  our  occupation.  Tall 
golden  vases  ornamented  the  corners  of  my 
chamber ;  the  stools  and  tables  were  carved  and 
gilt ;  so  were  the  pillars  supporting  the  skylight ; 
the  tapestry  on  the  walls  was  so  thickly  embroi- 
dered in  gold,  with  curiously  formed  animals  and 
scrolls,  that  the  crimson  groundwork  could  only 
be  seen,  here  and  there,  in  little  patches ;  and 
my  bed  and  cushions  were  wrought  in  an  equally 
lavish  style. 

All  around  me  was  magnificence,  but  I  was 
satiated  with  it,  and  even  the  positive  grandeur 
of  this  palace  failed  to  give  rise  to  those  feelings, 
with  which  I  first  entered  the  Old  Palace  in  Geral. 
Then,  everything  that  I  saw  was  entirely  differ- 
ent from,  and  superior  to  what  I  had  expected 
to  find,  but  a  month's  residence  had  deprived 
Splendour  of  her  greatest  charm, — Novelty.  In 
the  Palace  of  the  Manitepec,  however,  there  did 
happen  to  be  something  that  was  new  to  us, — a 
residence  in  the  midst  of  all  the  pomp  and  gor- 
geousness  of  the  Inca's  Court,  and  this  made  two 
weeks  pass  away  too  rapidly,  causing  us  to  be 
quite  surprised,  on  the  second  of  December,  at 
Orteguilla's  informing  us  that  he  should  return  to 


OF   THE   MANITEPEC.  141 

the  capital  the  next  day,  in  order  to  prepare  for 
his  annual  tour  through  the  principal  cities  of 
the  valley,  during  which  journey  he  wished  for 
our  company.  Consequently  we  got  ready  to  de- 
part, and  on  the  third  of  December  left  for  Ge- 
ral. 

On  reviewing  the  journal  of  our  residence  on 
the  Manitepec,  I  find  but  one  incident  worthy  of 
insertion  here.  The  young  lady  mentioned  was 
about  fourteen  years  of  age. 

'  Tuesday,  November  23d.  About  eight  o'clock 
last  evening,  I  was  sitting  in  one  of  my  four  rooms, 
writing  in  this  journal  by  the  light  of  a  standing 
lamp,  the  oil  of  which,  by  the  way,  was  perfumed 
most  delightfully  with  vanilla,  when  Ned, — who 
had  been  walking  in  the  Park  with  Orteguilla  and 
his  family, — rushed  in,  wringing  wet,  and  told 
me  to  follow  him,  as  Ineralla,  the  Inca's  eldest 
daughter,  had  fallen  into  an  artificial  lake  and 
been  nearly  drowned,  before  he  (Ned)  could 
rescue  her. 

*  Of  course,  I  went  with  him  immediately,  with 
my  medicine  chest  in  my  hands,  and,  after  pass- 
ing through  many  dark  rooms,  a  tapestry  was 
raised,  and  we  found  ourselves  on  the  threshold 
of  the  Empress'  private  saloon, — a  large,  square 
apartment,  with  splendid  furniture,  and  draped 
walls,  brilliantly  illuminated  by  pendent  lamps, 


142  AN  INCIDENT. 

of  which,  two  or  three  hung  between  each  of  the 
porphyry  columns  that  supported  the  skylight. 
By  the  side  of  a  beautiful  fountain  that  bubbled 
in  the  centre  of  the  room,  was  placed  a  large 
ottoman  of  crimson  starred  with  gold,  and  on  this 
lay  the  insensible  and  dripping  form  of  Ineralla, 
her  wet,  white  drapery  forming  a  good  contrast 
with  the  magnificence  of  the  dresses  of  her  family 
who  surrounded  her,  together  with  the  numerous 
attendants,  who  chafed  her  hands  and  un sandalled 
feet,  fanned  her,  and  did  all  they  could  to  restore 
consciousness. 

'  Her  head  rested  on  her  mother's  lap,  and  her 
dark  hair,  curled  by  the  water,  fell  in  heavy 
volumes  on  the  marble  floor.  I  instantly  saw  that 
she  was  in  no  imminent  peril  from  her  unsolicited 
bath,  but  had  fainted  from  fright,  and  I,  con- 
sequently exerted  all  my  powers  to  render  her, 
once  more,  sensible.  My  efforts  were  crowned 
with  success,  and  by  nine  o'clock  that  evening 
she  was  in  a  deep  sleep.' 

The  young  princess  awoke  the  next  morning 
with  a  slight  fever,  but  in  two  or  three  days 
was  perfectly  restored  to  health,  much  to  our 
credit,  and  we  were  overwhelmed  with  thanks  and 
gifts  from  all  her  now  happy  family. 


143 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Tezcutlipotenango. — Otompan.— -Mixocolo. — The  Covered 
Market  Place. — Poanango. 

ON  Wednesday  morning,  December  8th,  Ned 
and  I,  together  with  Harry  Boyd, — we  two  in 
our '  horse  litter,'  our  cook  mounted,  and  followed 
hy  four  mules,  two  of  which  were  loaded, — joined 
the  Inca's  magnificent  escort  as  it  left  the  city 
by  the  Great  Dyke.  This  was  an  occasion  of 
state,  and  all  the  highest  officers  of  the  Incalate, 
the  nobles,  curac,as,  and  principal  chieftains,  were 
obliged  to  attend  in  Orteguilla's  train,  which 
formed  an  interminable  procession  of  gorgeous 
litters  and  palanquins.  The  Inca's  palanquin 
was  carried  by  sixteen  nobles,  and  surrounded  by 
a  guard  of  warriors,  of  which  a  perfect  army, 
marched  before  and  behind  the  showy  array  of 
nobility. 

Passing  through  the  four  island  fortresses, — 
which  were  decorated  with  flaunting  banners,  and 
garlands  of  flowers, — we  regained  the  shores  of 
the  Lake  at  Onadella,  by  nine  o'clock.  At  this 
town  Orteguilla  visited  the  bronze  foundries,  and 


144  TEZCUTLIPOTENANGO. 

show  rooms,  in  the  last  of  which,  he  showed  me 
several  ploughshares,  excellent  imitations  of  our 
iron  ones,  but  I  doubted  whether  the  material  of 
which  they  were  composed  was  stout  enough,  it 
being  copper  with  an  alloy  of  tin. 

At  eleven  we  set  out  again,  after  having  par- 
taken of  a  collation  prepared  for  the  Inca  and  his 
suite,  and  about  four  in  the  afternoon  arrived  before 
the  walls  of  Tezcutlipotenango, — (a  short  name, 
by  the  way  !) — where  we  were  received  by  dense 
crowds  of  the  populace,  and  by  the  Curaga  of  the 
4  Circular  City,' — as  it  is  likewise  called  from  its 
peculiar  form, — who  had  preceded  us  from  Ona- 
della,  he  having,  started  with  the  Inca. 

The  procession  entered  the  walls  and  was  con- 
ducted to  the  palace,  which  was  situated  in  the 
very  centre  of  the  city,  and  was  of  great  size, 
although  without  the  slightest  pretensions  to 
beauty.  Leaving  Boyd  to  look  out  for  lodgings 
in  some  house  or  other, — Ned  and  I  started,  on  a 
tour  of  the  city,  from  the  Palace  Park,  immedi- 
ately opposite  the  entrance  of  which  was  the  com- 
mencement of  a  wide  street  leading  to  one  of  the 
many  city  gates.  Down  this  we  bent  our  steps, 
but  we  had  not  got  to  the  first  cross  street,  when 
we  saw  that  our  progress  was  impeded  by  a  strong 
bronze  chain,  drawn  across  the  thoroughfare  in 
which  we  were,  and  guarded  by  a  good  many 


TEZCUTLIPOTENANGO.  145 

warriors,  fully  armed,  who  would  not  permit  us 
to  pass. 

Being,  openly,  unarmed, — though  we  perpetu- 
ally carried  each  a  '  Colt's  revolver,' — -and,  taking 
this  into  our  thoughts,  not  considering  twelve 
shots  sufficient  to  drive  away  at  least  a  hundred 
men,  we  retreated,  on  deciding  that  '  Discretion 
is  the  better  part  of  Valour,' — forgetting  that,  as 
the  guards  were  nothing  but  'barbarians,  they 
would  be  alarmed  at  the  sound  of  a  single  dis- 
charge, letting  alone  the  execution  that  would  not 
fail  to  be  attendant  upon  such  a  noise,  when 
either  Ned  or  I  fired  in  anger.*  We  tried  two 
or  three  other  streets  with  no  better  success,  and 
so  'gave  it  up  as  a  bad  job,'  returning  to  the 
Palace,  where  we  found  that  apartments  kad  been 
prepared  for  us  by  order  of  the  Inca.  The  even- 
ing was  passed  by  this  last  named  personage,  in 
receiving  the  officers  of  the  city,  and  the  reports 
of  the  different  manufactories,  which  were  put 
away  by  Apixtamatl,  in  order  that  they  might  be 
read  before  the  Council  of  Nobles  in  the  capital, 
on  the  return  of  the  Inca. 

Thursday,  December  9th. — Two  months  since 

*  It  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  remark  here,  that  during  our 
residence  in  the  valley,  only  one  shot  was  fired,  and  that  will  be 
mentioned  in  its  proper  place.  (Chapter  XX.) 


146  OTOMPAN. 

we  entered  the  Valley,  and  nearly  four  since  we 
left  Charleston !  As  Orteguilla  intends  to  go 
through  his  principal  cities  as  quickly  as  possible, 
he  left  Tezcutlipotenango  this  morning,  early,  for 
Otompan,  where  we  arrived  in  an  hour  and  a 
half.  This  city  is  much  smaller  than  the  other, 
although  the  walls  enclose  a  much  greater  space. 
The  stream  of  Naloma, — which  passes  through  it 
as  well  as  through  Geral  and  Tezcutlipotenan- 
go,— is  crossed  by  many  bridges,  of  rather 
stronger  construction  than  the  flimsy  article  over 
the  Arinos  at  Povoacao,  as  they  well  may  be. 

The  Naloma,  at  this  city,  is  not  quite  half  a 
mile  broad,*  and  besides  a  stone  pier  on  each 
bank,  a  great  many  more, — twelve,  and  even 
twenty,  in  some  cases,  are  built  in  the  water,  the 
tops  of  all  being  connected  by  strong  beams  of 
wood,  on  which  are  laid  thick  slabs  of  granite, 
strongly  cemented.  A  solid  stone  parapet  is 
erected  on  each  side  of  these  bridges,  which  are 
quite  low.  Both  sides  of  the  stream, — in  all  the 
cities  through  which  it  winds  its  course, — are 
built  up  with  polished  stone,  and  are  much  used 
as  a  promenade  by  the  inhabitants. 

t  By  the  map  of  the  valley,  it  is  over  a  mile  wide,  as  I  could 
not  make  it  as  small  as  it  really  should  be,  without  running  the 
risk  of  confounding  it  with  the  causeways. 


MIXOCOLO.  147 

Orteguilla  took  up  his  station  in  the  palace,  and 
gave  an  audience  to  the  officers  of  the  city,  as  he 
did  last  night  in  Tezcutlipotenango.  We  dined 
about  one  o'clock,  and  set  out,  immediately  after 
having  done  so,  for  the  third  curagial  city — that 
of  Mixocolo, — where  we  arrived  at  half  past 
three.  This  is  larger  than  either  of  the  two  cities 
through  which  we  have  passed,  and  contains  many 
splendid  public  buildings,  which,  however,  we 
could  only  see  from  the  Park  of  the  Palace,  as 
the  Inca  is  carefully  guarded  by  large  bodies  of 
warriors,  no  one  being  allowed  to  enter  the  Park 
but  the  municipal  authorities,  and  no  one  to 
leave  without  a  pass  from  Orteguilla,  who,  after 
he  had  received  and  dismissed  his  visitors,  came 
and  told  us  to  follow  him,  as  he  wanted  to  show 
us  the  principal  curiosity  of  the  city. 

Issuing  from  the  guarded  gates  without  the 
slightest  difficulty, — our  conductor  being  recog- 
nized,— we  were  led  "down  one  street  and  up 
another,"  until,  after  threading  a  perfect  laby- 
rinth, we  passed  before  a  building,  about  thirty 
feet  high  and  a  hundred  wide,  the  front  being 
very  richly  carved  out  in  granite,  but  without  any 
opening,  save  a  large  gateway  in  the  centre.  The 
sides  were  not  visible,  being  blocked  up  with  houses. 
Through  the  gate,  crowds  of  people  came  out,  and 


148  COVERED  MARKET. 

as  many  went  in,  while  Ned  and  I  wondered  what 
the  attraction  was  in  the  curious  looking  structure. 

The  Inca  pushed  himself  into  the  entering 
throng,  closely  followed  by  us,  and  the  resistless 
human  current  carried  us  in.  Before  us  was 
spread  an  apparently  interminable  vista  of  vase- 
like,  white  marble  columns,  supporting  seven  rows 
of  large  skylights.  Beneath  the  centre  row  of 
these  last  was  the  broad  passage  for  the  purchas- 
ers, for  on  either  side  were  stalls  or  shops,  divided 
by  low  partitions,  so  that  an  uninterrupted  view 
could  be  had  from  any  part  of  the  queer  looking  ed- 
ifice. The  purchasers'  passage  was  crammed,  and 
presented  a  gay  appearance  from  the  differently 
coloured  dresses  of  the  buyers.  We  were  in  the 
covered  market  place,  and  it  is  over  a  mile  long, 
entirely  constructed  of  granite  and  marble.  We 
walked  the  whole  length  and  returned,  purchasing 
a  great  many  articles.  We  did  not  get  back  to 
the  palace  until  long  after  eight,  and  I  have  just 
come  to  my  room,  after  having  partaken  of  a 
supper  prepared  by  Harry  Boyd,  for  Ned,  me,  and 
himself. 

Friday,  December  10th.  It  sprinkled  this 
morning  as  we  started  from  Mixocolo,  being  the 
first  specimen  of  rain  that  we  have  experienced 
since  we  landed  at  Para,  the  dry  season  having 


POANANGO.  149 

been  in  full  force  ever  since,  and  it  ought  to  last 
from  September  to  February  in  this  elevated 
region.  I  hope  we  shall  have  no  more  of  it,  as 
I  neither  fancy  remaining  in  the  valley  for  the 
six  wet  months,  nor  going  back  to  the  Atlantic 
coast  in  the  mud.  We  left  the  stream  tnis  morn- 
ing, and  have  been  proceeding  in  a  westerly 
direction  all  day,  over  stone  causeways,  along 
which  I  have  noticed  large,  fortified  stone  build- 
ings which  I  found,  on  inquiry,  to  be  magazines 
of  military  stores,  built  so  that  whenever  the 
army  is  obliged  to  cross  through  the  country,  it 
can  do  so  without  injury  to  the  crops  of  any  of 
the  inhabitants,  thus  avoiding  all  the  desolation, 
that, — unfortunately, — so  often  marks  the  route 
of  even  friendly  troops  in  time  of  war.  The 
army  of  Geral  is  very  large,  I  find,  in  order  to 
repel  the  constant  aggressions  of  the  savage  tribes 
without  the  valley,  who  too  frequently  cross  the 
Sierra,  enter  the  Inca's  territory,  and  often  do 
much  mischief. 

We  dined  to-day,  at  a  village,  whose  name  I 
could  not  learn,  in  a  large  tent,  there  being  no 
edifice  of  sufficient  size  to  accommodate  the  whole 
of  Orteguilla's  rather  numerous  retinue, — and,  at 
dusk,  we  arrived  at  this  town, — Poanango.  It  is 
quite  small,  and  the  governor's  residence  is  too 


150  POANANGO. 

circumscribed  to  include  accommodations  for  us. 
who  are,  in  consequence,  quartered  on  a  private 
house.  However,  it  is  only  for  to  night,  as  the 
Inca  leaves  at  daybreak  for  the  city  of  Xaromba. 


151 


CHAPTER  XX.  * 

Atalall.— Xaromba. — A  Visit  to  the  Salt  Mines.— A  Dangerous 
Piece  of  Fun. 

SATURDAY,  December  llth. — We  set  out  at  the 
appointed  time,  and  advanced  for  six  hours, 
merely  stopping  about  every  mile  and  a  quarter, 
at  the  Chasquis  stations  to  change  the  carriers  of 
the  litters,  which  we  personally  had  not  to  do,  on 
account  of  our  horse  palanquin  which  has  proved  an 
exceedingly  comfortable  sort  of  conveyance,  and 
attracts  much  admiration  from  the  nobles.  The 
splendidly  carved  and  polished  rosewood  body  is 
close  to  the  ground,  and  the  horse  in  front,  is  har- 
nessed at  a  sufficient  distance  from  the  palanquin  to 
prevent  his  kicking  the  front  of  it  in,  as  he  could 
easily  do,  if  he  were  near  enough.  Fortunately 
the  handles  are  very  long,  as  the  intention  was  to 
have  it  carried  by  sixteen  men,  four  on  each 
handle.  / 

At  a  little  before  noon  we  arrived  in  Atalatl,  a 
good-sized  town,  where  we  remained  during  the 
heat  of  the  day,  leaving  at  four  in  the  afternoon 
for  Xaromba.  We  were  then  rapidly  approaching 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  valley,  and  the  tow- 


]  52  XAROMBA. 

ering,  hoary-headed,  needle-like,  Atolatepec,  with 
all  its  terraces  of  many  shaded  green,  is  in  full 
view  from  the  window, — if  I  may  so  call  an  open- 
ing into  whicU  fits  a  thin  slab  of  white  jasper,  now 
turned  on  one  side,* — at  which  I  am  sitting,  in 
the  Palace  of  Xaromha.  I  have  written  that  this 
immense  peak  rose  directly  before  me,  and  I  will 
add  that  to  the  north  of  it,  is  the  Xaromba- 
tepec;  I  should  call  it  a  hill  by  the  side  of  its 
gigantic  neighbour,  on  whose  right,  the  Valley 
of  Geral  stretches  its  rolling  plains  toward  the 
south, — a  mass  of  habitations,— almost  a  single 
city. 

We  arrived  in  this  walled  town  at  seven  o'clock, 
and  the  sun  has  now  been  down  some  time,  the 
scene  spread  before  me,  being  bathed  in  the  light 
of  the  moon,  which  has  been  shining  so  long  that 
the  welcoming  fires  have  nearly  died  out.  Here  is 
Grey  after  me,  to  go  up  with  him  to  the  roof  of 
the  Palace,  so  good  night. 

Sunday,  December  12th.  You  have,  of  course, 
heard  the  proverb  which  runs  something  like 

*  This  was  the  first  time  I  had  seen  anything  in  the  Valley 
of  Geral,  at  all  resembling  our  casement  windows.  The  open- 
ing in  the  wall  was  square,  and  the  air  could  be  excluded, 
while  the  light  was  still  admitted,  by  an  exceedingly  thin  slab  of 
the  mineral,  above  mentioned,  which  is  more  than  sewii-trans- 
parent. 


XAROMBA.  153 

this, — £  Do  at  Rome  as  Romans  do,' — and  will, 
in  consequence,  pardon  me  for  having  gone  to 
the  salt  mines  here  with  the  Inca  and  his  suite, 
this  morning,  for  as  the  Geralians  have  no  par- 
ticular day  set  aside  for  religious  observances, 
they  did  not  think  it  wrong  to  go. 

Starting  on  foot  from  the  palace  at  eight  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  we  crossed  through  the  beautiful 
6  City  of  Fountains,' — as  I  believe  its  name  im- 
plies,— and  ascending  the  Xarombatepec  to  the 
second  plateau,  we  stopped  to  rest  ourselves,  after 
a  toilsome  ascent,  in  a  large  tent  broadly  striped 
with  dark  blue.  About  ten  o'clock,  the  superin- 
tendant  of  the  salt  mines  came  and  announced 
that  the  Inca, — who  had  been  accommodated 
with  a  separate  tent, — was  on  his  way  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  works. 

We  sprang  off  our  couches  and  hurried  to  the 
place  indicated, — a  large  doorway  composed  of 
huge  blocks  of  the  clearest  rock  salt.  Passing 
through  this  we  entered  a  gallery,  cut  out  of  the 
earth,  but  ceiled,  walled,  and  floored,  with  square 
blocks  of  salt.  It  was  illuminated  by  candela- 
bras,  placed  between  the  graceful,  vase-like,  col- 
umns of  salt,  that  appeared  to  support  the  roof. 
This  gallery  is  very  long,  and  on  turning  a  sud- 
den corner  we  found  that  it  was  continued  in  the 
form  of  an  inclined  plane,  gradually  descending 


1 54  A  VISIT  TO 

towards  the  eastern,  or  the  same  side  on  which 
we  entered  the  moruntain. 

The  first  gallery, — which,  as  well  as  all  the 
others,  I  measured  by  paces  to  the  best  of  my 
ability, — is  about  six  hundred  feet  long,  and  the 
first  inclined  plane  nearly  fifty  feet  less,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  a  second  gallery,  seven  hundred  feet  in 
length,  succeeded  by  a  flight  of  four  hundred  and 
twenty-seven  steps.  All  these  lead  in  the  same 
direction  as  the  plane,  but  a  third  gallery  was 
excavated  towards  the  centre  of  the  mountain 
for  a  distance  of  eight  hundred  feet,  ending  in  a 
vast  circular  saloon,  at  least  twelve  hundred  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a  ceiling  that  I  am  sure  is  partly  a 
natural  formation,  it  being  very  highly  vaulted,  for 
to  cove  a  ceiling  would  be  far  above  the  ingenuity 
of  any  workmen  I  have  yet  met  with  in  the  valley. 
This  immense  apartment  was  brilliantly  illumin- 
ated by  hanging  lamps,  candelabras,  and  torches, 
and  in  the  centre  of  it  was  a  large  oblong  table 
of  salt,  on  which  was  laid  a  collation  that  was 
soon  demolished  by  the  Inca  and  his  suite.  I 
was  much  disappointed  with  the  effect  of  the 
lights  in  this  salt  apartment,  there  being  a  glar- 
ing reflection,  but  none  of  those  exquisite  crystals 
that  I  noticed  in  the  celebrated  mines  of  Wiel- 
icska,  near  Cracow. 

The  repast  being  finished,  the  hall  was  emptied 


THE  SALT  MINES.  155 

by  an  egress  on  the  opposite  side  to  that  on  which 
we  entered.  A  short  entry  led  us  to  the  top  of 
a  winding  staircase,  which  consists  of  six  hundred 
and  nineteen  steps,  where  there  is  a  landing  place 
and  two  openings  admitting  the  visitor  into  several 
ranges  of  apartments,  all  illuminated,  supported 
by  columns,  and  nearly  un-look-atable,  from  the 
horrible  yellow  reflections  of  the  flickering  lamps. 

Returning  to  the  staircase  we  descended  thirty- 
two  steps,  when  a  second  platform  and  opening 
permitted  us  to  enter  a  second  series  of  apart- 
ments, larger  than  those  we  had  just  visited  and 
equally  disagreeable.  Here  the  superintendent 
told  us  that  we  were  on  a  level  with  the  valley, 
which  was  as  much  as  saying  that  we  had  de- 
scended over  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet. 

We  now  went  down  a  series  of  eight  inclined 
planes,  constructed  so  as  to  form  a  zigzag  through 
the  mountain,  and  similar  to  the  galleries,  &c., 
above,  that  is  to  say,  formed  of  salt  blocks,  sup- 
ported by  columns,  and  illuminated, — and  con- 
ducting us  above  five  hundred  feet  downwards  in 
a  direct  line.  Turning  into  a  short  entry  leading 
towards  the  east,  we  soon  entered  an  excavated 
room,  seventy  feet  square,  with  a  ceiling  ascend- 
ing to  a  sharp  point. 

I  now  heard  a  sound  like  the  rushing  of  a  cat- 
aract, and  Ned  also  observed  it,  but  we  thought 


156  SALT  MINES. 

nothing  of  it.  We  left  the  saloon  by  a  second 
entry  leading  towards  the  south,  one  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  long,  and  rather  darker  than  the 
others,  or  appeared  to  &e  so,  after  the  brightness 
of  the  room.  As  we  proceeded  along  it,  the 
noise,  which  we  had  observed  in  the  chamber, 
grew  louder  and  louder,  and  the  cause  of  it  was 
revealed,  when,  at  the  end  of  the  entry,  the 
superintendent  raised  a  very  thick  piece  of  tapes- 
try. 

Immediately  opposite  the  opening  thus  revealed, 
from  a  semi-circular  cavity, — dark  as  Erebus,  and 
elevated,  at  least,  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  on  which  we  were  standing, — fell  a  torrent 
of  water,  with  a  roar  like  thunder,  losing  itself  in 
an  immense  ravine,  the  edges  of  which  were 
defended  by  a  parapet  of  large  salt  blocks  !  We 
rushed  from  the  entry,  and  stood  on  the  polished 
floor  of  a  vast,  natural,  salt  cavern,  of  the  size 
and  appearance  of  which  nothing  from  my  pen 
can  convey  an  adequate  idea.  Illuminated  as  it 
was  by  candelabras  on  the  floor,  by  torches  in 
profusion  as  high  up  as  the  opening  from  which 
the  water  fell,  and  by  hanging  lamps  from  every 
projecting  crystal  within  the  reach  of  the  climb- 
ers,— the  enormous  hall  could  not  be  totally  seen, 
and  as  for  the  high  vault  over  our  heads,  we  could 
only  know  it  to  be  there  by  the  brilliant  reflection 


SALT  MINES.  157 

of  a  more  elevated  light  than  common,  upon  a  pend- 
ent crystallization,  which  shone  like  stars  far,  far 
up.  The  natural  columns,  and  the  arches  which 
they  appeared  to  support,  the  vaults  and  niches  to 
be  seen  here  and  there,  the  stalactites  and  stalag- 
mites, were  all  illuminated,  and  glittered  in  unri- 
valled brilliancy,  in  every  colour  of  the  rainbow. 

Close  to  the  cataract,  Grey  pointed  out  to  me 
an  opening  leading  to  a  smaller  cave,  and  in 
which  he  had  discovered  an  exact  representation 
of  a  gothic  door;  the  pointed  arch  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  projecting  stratum  of  a  purplish 
coloured  salt,  forming  the  ornaments  above  the 
portal,  and  on  each  side  was  a  buttress,  surmount- 
ed by  a  pinnacle.  Of  course  all  was  uneven  in 
height  and  dimensions;  and,  perhaps,  I  should 
never  have  recognized  the  exact  resemblance,  had 
not  Grey  pointed  out  all  the  details  separately. 
He  commenced  making  a  hasty  sketch  of  it,  includ- 
ing the  cataract,  while  I  passed  through  the  gothic 
doorway  to  explore  the  interior  of  that  cavern. 
It  is  of  irregular  skape,  much  smaller  than  the 
other,  but  was  of  more  real  beauty. 

The  ceiling  was  not  more  than  sixty  feet  high, 
and  was  completely  visible  from  the  brilliancy  of 
the  illumination,  supported  by  natural  columns, 
irregularly  placed  but  all  connected  by  exquisitely 
fretted  arches.  These  supports  were  of  all  colours, 
9 


158  SALT    MINES- 

red,  blue,  green,  yellow,  and  purple,  nearly  trans- 
parent. I  remained  some  time  in  admiration  of 
this  magnificent  formation,  and  when  I  issued  from 
it,  Ned  had  just  finished  his  rude  outline.  I  showed 
him  the  '  church'  as  I  called  the  little  cave,  and 
again  entered  the  grand  cavern,  as  the  Inca  and 
his  escort  were  ascending  a  broad  flight  of  steps, 
having  their  backs  turned  toward  us.  The  temp- 
tation was  too  great  for  Ned  to  withstand,  and, 
before  I  could  prevent  him, — or  indeed  before  I 
knew  what  he  was  about, — he  had  taken  out  his 
6  Revolver'  and  fired  a  barrel.  The  report  was 
instantly  followed  by  a  whirring  sound  in  the  air, 
and  an  immense  crystallization,  crashed  in  shivers 
on  the  smooth  floor  right  at  our  feet. 

The  confusion  on  the  stairs  was  excessive,  for 
the  dignified  nobles  were  alarmed  at  the  tremen- 
dous echoes.  Helter-skelter  they  rushed  up  into 
a  saloon,  to  which  the  flight  of  stairs  led,  Orte- 
guilla  alone  remaining  upon  the  steps,  and  we 
soon  joined  him,  affecting  wonder  at  the  extraor- 
dinary report  that  preceded  the  fall  of  the  stal- 
actite. We  now  entered  the  saloon,  and  the 
Inca's  escort,  finding  that  no  one  was  hurt,  was 
soon  restored  to  order.  The  excavated  apart- 
ment, in  which  we  now  were,  was  furnished  with 
tables,  stools,  &c.,  of  salt.  How  tame  it  looked 
after  the  great  hall,  formed  by  the  hand  of 


SALT   MINES.  159 

nature.  Passing  through  two  or  more  saloons, 
we  entered  an  entry,  and  went  to  the  foot  of  a 
long  staircase  which  was  ascended  with  much 
fatigue.  A  series  of  three  inclined  planes,  and 
a  long  gallery  which  I  thought  to  be  without 
end,  conducted  us,  at  last,  to  the  light  of  day. 
In  the  tent  on  the  plateau,  a  collation  was  spread, 
which  was  soon  demolished,  and  we  returned  to 
the  palace,  reaching  it  at  half  past  four  in  the 
afternoon,  having  been  eight  hours  and  a  half 
away  from  it,  five  of  which  were  spent  in  the 
mines.  We  leave  the  city  at  sunrise  to-morrow ; 
I,  at  least,  pleased  with  this  visit  to  the  salt- 
mines, which  I  would  not  have  missed  under  any 
consideration,  and  which  I  am  afraid,  I  have  oc- 
cupied too  much  space  in  endeavouring  to  de- 
scribe. 


160 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Teman.— The  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Panonco. — Gopal. — The 
Temple  on  the  Atolatepec. — Tontarn. — Edarallaqua. 

MONDAY,  December,  13th. — The  Inca  departed 
from  Xaromba  at  twenty  minutes  of  six,  and 
dined,  at  twelve,  in  the  town  of  Teman,  having 
arrived  there  on  a  fine  causeway  that  skirts  the 
base  of  the  Atolatepec.  At  three  we  bent  our 
course  towards  the  south,  and  in  two  hours  halted 
in  front  of  the  fortified  city  of  Panonco,  into 
which  we  were  instantly  admitted. 

No  sooner  had  Orteguilla  partaken  of  his  af- 
ternoon meal,  than  he  came  to  Ned  and  me,  who 
were  standing,  talking,  by  the  fountain  in  the 
centre  of  the  apartment,  and  asked  if  we  would 
like  to  visit  the  Temple  of  the  Sun.  We  ex- 
pressed our  willingness  to  do  so,  and  set  off  im- 
mediately. In  a  few  minutes  we  got  to  a  large 
square  portion  of  land,  railed  in  with  bronze, 
having  two  circular  stone  lodges,  and  a  gold- 
en gate  between  them,  which  was  closed, 
but,  on  the  appearance  of  the  Inca,  it  was  in- 


PANONCO.  161 

stantly  thrown  wide  open  to  admit  him  and  us 
two,  who  were  his  only  companions. 

At  the  termination  of  a  long  avenue  we  saw 
an  immense  structure  in  the  form  of  an  eight 
pointed  star,  all  of  white  marble,  and  entirely 
surrounded  with  a  colonnade  of  the  usual  shaped 
pillars.  The  large  octagon,  from  which  the  points 
issue,  is  twice  as  high  as  the  rest  of  the  edifice, 
and  its  upper  part  is  also  surrounded  by  a  row 
of  columns.  In  the  centre  of  the  slightly 
ascending  roof  of  the  octagonal  structure  is  a 
third  range  of  vase-like  pillars,  supporting  a 
narrow  concave  entablature,  which  is  surmounted 
by  a  row  of  marble  vases,  eighty  in  number, 
placed  at  equal  distances. 

On  approaching  this  singular  erection,  I  noticed 
that  the  points  towards  the  due  east  and  west, 
were  merely  porticos,  there  being  no  building  on 
them,  as  upon  the  six  others.  We  entered 
by  the  northern  point,  and  were  received 
by  a  band  of  priests,  hastily  assembled  to  do 
honour  to  the  Inca,  who  is  not  only  the  supreme 
ruler  of  temporal  afiairs,  but  of  spiritual  ones 
also.  They  conducted  us  through  the  triangular 
hall,  which  is  only  hung  in  part  with  tapestry, 
the  men  having  been  at  work  putting  it  up 
during  our  visit, — about  an  hour  since. 

Dragging  some  of  the    workmen's  tables  out 


162  TEMPLE   OP  THE   SUN 

of  the  way,  the  priests  gave  us  admission  into 
the  sanctuary,  which  is  a  vast  eight-sided  apart- 
ment, with  a  large  skylight  of  the  same  shape, 
in  the  centre,  supported  by  forty  golden  columns. 
From  the  entablature  which  these  columns  sup- 
port, spring  as  many  more  of  white  marble, 
which  I  mentioned  in  the  description  of  the  ex- 
terior of  the  temple.  Within  the  bases  of  the 
interior  columns,  is  a  gold  da'is  of  three  steps,  in 
the  middle  of  which  is  an  octagonal  altar  of  por- 
phyry and  gold.  In  the  centre  of  this  is  the 
place  where  the  cabinet  is  to  stand,  but  that  arti- 
cle is,  as  yet,  unfinished,  and  consequently  not 
in  the  sanctuary.  The  proper  vases  of  the 
months  have  not  yet  made  their  appearance,  and 
for  the  time,  bronze  ones  are  substituted ;  the 
game  may  be  remarked  of  the  vase  of  Sacrifice 
on  the  altar. 

In  all  the  other  temples  I  have  visited  in  this 
valley,  the  Sun  has  been  represented,  invariably, 
by  a  disc  with  rays,  placed  on  the  wall  behind, 
and  above  the  altar,  but  here  the  peculiar  form 
of  the  sanctuary  has  precluded  the  usual  method, 
and  the  orb  is,  consequently,  portrayed  by  an 
immense  gold  ball, — whether  solid  or  not,  I  am 
unable  to  state,  though  I  expect  that  it  is  merely 
a  shell  studded  with  jewels,  and  depended  over 
the  altar  by  gold  chains  which  are  fastened  to 


AT    PANONCO.  163 

the  outer  edge  of  the  skylight.  The  eastern  and 
western  sides  of  the  sanctuary  are  open  to  the 
the  light  of  day,  being  all  in  one  with  the  previous- 
ly mentioned  porticos,  separated  at  night,  however, 
by  gilt  gates  and  tapestry.  As  may  be  inferred 
from  this  description,  the  temple  is  not  yet  com- 
pleted, but, — as  it  is  the  richest  in  the  valley, — 
there  is  no  doubt  but  that  it  will  be  finished  soon. 
Even  in  its  present  state  it  is  the  most  splendid  edi- 
fice I  have  seen  since  I  left  the  capital  city,  as  I 
cannot  place  it  before  the  Council  House  there. 
We  returned  to  the  palace  by  seven. 

Tuesday,  December  14th.  To-day  our  course 
was  again  toward  the  north,  as  we  left  Panonco 
for  Atola  at  an  early  hour,  dining  at  noon  in  the 
city  of  Gopul,  which  we  did  not  leave  until  four, 
the  Inca  being  obliged  to  receive  the  reports  of 
the  institutions  and  the  visits  of  the  city  authori- 
ties. We  reached  Atola,  however,  before  six, 
and  I  have  just  despatched  my  portion  of  supper. 

I  have  not  much  time  to  write  now,  as  at  nine 
o'clock,  Orteguilla  and  his  escort  are  going  to 
ascend  the  Atolatepec,  in  order  to  visit  a  temple, 
dedicated  to  the  Sun,  which  has  just  been  finished, 
and  which  is  already  considered  the  holiest  place 
under  Orteguilla's  sway,  it  being  the  most  ele- 
vated, and  consequently  receiving  the  first  rays  of 
the  sun  every  morning.  I  believe  that  the  Temple 


164  NEW  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN. 

is  on  the  uppermost  terrace,  not  on  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  which  last  is  perpetually  covered 
with  snow,  and  would  not  form  a  very  agreeable 
residence. 

We  leave  Harry  Boyd  here  with  the  animals 
and  the  horse  palanquin,  as  we  are  to  return  from 
the  mountain  as  early  to-morrow  morning  as 
possible. 

Wednesday  evening,  December  15th.  I  had 
scarcely  done  writing  last  evening  when  Grey 
came  in  to  tell  me  that  the  Inca  was  ready  to 
start,  so  I  put  away  my  journal,  came  out  in  front 
of  the  palace,  got  into  the  litter  which  had  been 
prepared  for  me,  and  started  in  company  with 
the  royal  escort.  We  soon  arrived  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  where  every  one  abandoned  their 
conveyances,  and  commenced  the  ascent  on  foot. 
This  way  was  easy  enough  as  there  was  no  climb- 
ing to  be  done,  merely  a  succession  of  terraces, 
connected  by  short  flights  of  stone  steps.  The 
night  was  magnificently  clear,  and  it  appeared  to 
me  that  I  had  never  before  seen  the  constella- 
tions so  distinctly,  although  the  moon  was  at  the 
full. 

As  well  as  I  could  see  in  the  moonlight,  it  was 
twenty  minutes  past  eleven,  cby  my  repeater,' 
when  we  reached  the  park  surrounding  the  New 
Temple,  which  being  built  of  the  purest  white 


NEW  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN.  165 

marble,  glistened  beautifully  between  the  dark 
green,  almost  black,  trees  which  overshadowed  it. 
Entering  the  enclosure  we  were  conducted  to  the 
dwelling  of  the  priests,  which  they  had  given  up 
for  the  use  of  their  distinguished  visitors,  and 
not  being  able  to  accommodate  all  in  this  exten- 
sive erection,  they  had  pitched  tents  for  the  over- 
plus, they  themselves  spending  the  night  in  the 
Temple. 

Ned  and  I  were  soon  fast  asleep,  and  it  appear- 
ed to  me  that  five  minutes  had  scarcely  passed 
when  we  were  awakened  by  a  servant,  who.  told 
us  that  the  '  sun  would  soon  be  up.'  We  arose 
and  dressed  ourselves  as  quickly  as  we  could,  and 
hurried  to  the  Temple.  It  faces  the  east,  and  is 
oblong  in  form,  the  longer  sides  being  the  front 
and  back.  The  facade  consists  of  a  deep  portico 
supported  by  three  rows  of  white  marble  columns ; 
the  entablature  over  the  front  range  of  pillars  is 
concave  and  narrow,  surmounted  by  twenty-eight 
good  sized  vases.  The  portico  is  four  or  five  feet 
lower  than  the  principal  building,  and  this  space 
is  occupied  by  a  lattice  of  the  most  elaborate 
richness,  that  goes  around  the  whole  edifice, 
which,  by  the  way,  is  crowned  by  a  projecting 
cornice,  of  very  singular  workmanship,  orna- 
mented in  front,  with  thirteen  marble  vases. 

There  are  two  entrances  under  the  portico, 
9* 


166  NEW  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN. 

placed  at  each  end  of  the  facade,  and  the  north- 
ern one  admitted  us  into  a  large  hall,  having  a 
broad  cornice  of  gold,  from  which  hangs  skjblue 
tapestry,  looped  up  in  thirteen  places  to  display  so 
many  oblong  niches,  in  each  of  which  stands  a 
golden  vase  inscribed  with  the  name  of  a  month. 
The  ceiling  is  also  blue,  having  a  gilt  sun  in  the 
centre  of  it.  The  hall  was  brilliantly  illuminated 
and  filled  with  priests. 

We  now  entered  the  sanctuary  by  a  door,  or 
opening,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  hall.  It  is  a 
square  room  draped  with  blue  tapestry,  looped 
up  all  along  the  eastern  side  so  as  to  show  the 
semi-transparent  wall  of  white  jaspar,  through 
which  the  now  rising  sun  began  to  pour  his  beams. 
On  the  western  side  are  the  columns,  dais,  altar, 
vases,  &c.  as  in  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Geral, 
and  which  it  is  useless  to  redescribe.  Orteguilla 
officiated  as  High  Priest,  and  the  ceremony  over, 
a  splendid  breakfast  was  partaken  of  in  the  dwell- 
ing of  the  priests,  and  the  party  descended  to  the 
city,  where  it  arrived  at  nine  o'clock. 

The  Inca  gave  his  usual  audience  for  two  hours 
and  then  departed  from  Atola  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion. At  four  we  dined  in  Tontam,  a  small  town 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  stream  of  Naloma,  and 
are  now  in  the  city  of  Edarallaqua,  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  in  which  the  gold 


NEW  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN.  167 

mines  are  situated.  We  shall  probably  visit  them 
to-morrow,  and  then  proceed  to  the  Fortress  of 
Jacoqulatl,  whence  we  intend  to  go  to  Acaposinga 
from  which  city  we  shall  return  direct  to  Geral. 


168 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Magazine!  of  the   Edarallaquatepec. — The   Fortrew    of 
Jaco^ulatl. — Acaposinga. 

THURSDAY  December  16th. — Such  a  day  as 
this  has  been  !  Hot  as  any  respectable  furnace. 
But,  nevertheless  we  set  off  at  half  past  ten  this 
morning,  for  the  mines,  which  are  at  least  six 
miles  from  the  palace.  It  being  entirely  too  warm 
to  be  cooped  up  in  our  palanquin,  Ned  and  I  took 
up  our  positions  on  the  backs  of  our  horses,  which 
carried  us  to  our  destination  in  less  than  two 
hours  and  a  half,  as  we  had  to  moderate  our  speed 
in  order  to  keep  pace  with  the  litters  that  convey- 
ed the  rest  of  our  party. 

By  the  time  we  reached  our  destination,  Ned 
and  I  were  nearly  smothered  by  the  excessive 
heat,  and  could  not  prevail  upon  ourselves  to 
enter  the  mines,  well  knowing  that  it  must  be 
hotter  in  there,  than  where  we  were.  Orteguilla 
and  his  escort  looked  upon  us  with  perfect  surprise 
when  we  gave  our  reason  for  declining  to  go  in ; 
but  they  went  down  the  shaft  without  us,  allowing 


EDARALLAQUATEPEC.  169 

us  to  visit  the  Magazines  during  their  absence. 
These  are  large  stone  edifices,  solidly  constructed, 
fortified,  enclosed  within  a  range  of  high  -walls 
and  towers,  and, — being  always  lavishly  provi- 
sioned,— are  quite  capable  of  sustaining  a  siege, 
which,  indeed,  I  believe  they  once  did  from  an  in- 
cursion of  the  Lambys,  or  some  other  wild  tribe 
of  Brazil,  all  the  neighbouring  ones,  in  fact,  being 
the  inveterate  enemies  of  the  valley,  which  they 
themselves  occupied,  previous  to  the  coming  of 
the  ancestors  of  the  present  inhabitants.  This 
extensive  fortress  is  now  garrisoned  by  only  four 
hundred  warriors,  who,  during  our  visit,  were 
loitering  about  the  court  yards,  or  basking  in  the 
sun,  like  so  many  dogs.  The  Magazines  are  full 
of  gold  ingots,  which  are  now  sent  every  seven 
days,  to  the  different  cities,  in  certain  quantities, 
where  they  are  coined  for  a  similar  division  of 
thirds  to  that  which  1  described  as  taking  place 
at  the  mint  in  Geral,  except  that  the  Cura9as  and 
Nobles  get  the  Inca's  share. 

Orteguilla  did  not  remain  long  in  the  mines, 
returning  perhaps,  out  of  compliment  to  us,  and 
having  partaken  of  a  collation  we  set  out  for  the 
city.  At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  started  for  the 
Fortress  of  Jacoqulatl,  which  is  eight  miles  north 
of  Edarallaqua,  on  the  second  plateau  of  the 
sierra. 


170  THE  FORTRESS 

It  was  nearly  pitch  dark  when  we  arrived  there, 
and  the  fort  could  not  be  made  out  by  the  light 
of  the  flaring  torches  carried  by  the  attendants  of 
the  escort.  There  seemed  to  be  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  in  getting  into  it,  as  we  first  crossed  a 
bridge,  over  a  moat,  I  suspect,  for  I  could  not  see, 
the  moon  being  obscured  by  heavy  clouds,  and 
then  we  entered  a  gate,  passing  out  of  another 
almost  at  the  same  moment,  issuing  once  more 
into  the  open  air.  In  about  three  quarters  of  an 
hour,  after  this,  we  got  on  another  bridge  a  great 
deal  longer  than  the  first,  and  passed  through  a 
second  pair  of  gates.  It  was  not  the  fortress 
yet,  as  we  went  again  into  the  darkness  of  the 
night.  Five  minutes  more  and  we  entered  a  large 
portal,  finding  ourselves  in  a  proportionably  large 
hall,  filled  with  military  officers,  and  brilliantly 
illuminated. 

I  have  just  demolished  my  portion  of  a  supper 
which  was  prepared  for  the  Inca  and  his  suite, 
and  I  am  now  going  to  take  a  good  long  sleep. 
I  hope  to  be  able  to  give  a  description  of  this  for- 
tress to-morrow. 

Friday,  December  17th. — I  awoke  at  seven, 
quite  frightened  at  the  lateness  of  the  hour.  The 
sun  was  shining  brightly  through  a  window  of  the 
clearest  jaspar,  half  shrouded  with  buff  dra- 
pery,— and  played  upon  a  small  fountain  that 


OF  JACOQULATL.  171 

bubbled  in  the  centre  of  the  room.  I  dressed, 
and  while  doing  so,  went  to  the  window,  opened 
it,  and  looked  out. 

My  chamber  being  on  the  third  floor  of  a  tow- 
er, I  had  an  extensive  view.  Close  by  me  were 
the  strong  towers  and  walls  composing  a  portion 
of  the  building  in  which  I  was;  beyond  was  a 
wide  stone  court  with  a  broad  causeway  leading 
to  a  gate  in  the  surrounding  walls,  which  being 
open,  I  could  see  that  there  was  a  bridge  over  a 
wide  moat.  On  the  other  side  of  this,  the  cause- 
way was  continued  over  a  grassy  plain, — scat- 
tered, here  and  there,  with  buildings,  perhaps  the 
quarters  of  some  of  the  garrison, — for  about  a 
mile,  at  which  distance  there  was  a  second  range 
of  walls,  and  I  knew  that  they  were  surrounded 
by  water.  These  outer  walls  were  nearly  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  my  window. 

Grey  and  Harry  Boyd  now  came  in,  the  latter 
bringing  my  breakfast,  which  I  made  away  with  in 
no  time,  and  then  went  with  Ned  to  pay  our  morn- 
ing respects  to  the  Inca,  whom  we  found  walking  on 
the  walls,  attended  by  several  of  his  suite.  We 
joined  him  and  accompanied  the  party  around  the 
fort,  which  is  of  a  singular  shape. 

From  a  large  circular  tower, — of  a  greater 
height,  by  the  way,  than  any  structure  I  have 
seen  in  the  valley,  it  being,  I  should  suppose, 


172  THE  FORTRESS 

a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  if  not  more, — 
diverge  four  oblong  wings,  two  stories  high,  and 
all  of  the  same  length,  flanked  by  small  square 
towers.  Each  of  these  four  buildings  terminate 
in  an  immense  square  tower,  four  stories  high, 
each  succeeding  story  becoming  smaller  as  it 
ascends.  These  terminal  towers  are  connected 
by  strong  concave  walls,  interrupted  by  very 
small  structures,  looking  like  battlements  and 
buttresses. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  central  tower, 
where  our  walk  ended,  is,  of  course,  very  extend- 
ed, it  being  of  great  height,  and  also  situated  on 
the  lower  plateau  of  the  northern  mountain  fron- 
tier. Over  our  heads  flaunted  the  three  stand- 
ards of  the  Inca, — the  principal  one  is  composed 
of  feathers,  arranged  in  stripes  of  all  colours, 
placed  horizontally ;  the  next  in  point  of  consi- 
deration, is  of  sky  blue  cloth  with  a  golden  sun, 
rayed ;  and  the  third  is  black  with  a  full  moon 
embroidered  upon  it  in  silver,  and  surrounded 
with  stars.  The  two  last  indicate  that  in  the 
place  over  which  they  float,  there  is  a  royal  gar- 
rison, and  the  first  proclaims  the  actual  pre- 
sence of  the  Inca,  and  is  always  carried  behind 
him  in  his  progresses. 

The  two  moats  surrounding  this  fortress  are 
supplied  by  a  mountain  stream  that,  after  leaping 


OF  JACOQULATL.  173 

from  the  plateaus,  empties  into  the  Naloma,  just 
before  the  latter  precipitates  itself,  by  a  succes- 
sion of  cataracts,  into  the  plain  beyond  the 
Sierra. 

Orteguilla  having  made  a  satisfactory  tour  of 
the  walls,  descended  to  the  magazines,  which  are 
full  of  military  stores  and  provisions.  The  gar- 
rison of  this  most  important  fortress  numbers 
over  three  thousand  five  hundred  men ;  it  has 
been  besieged  seven  times,  taken  four,  and 
destroyed  once,  by  the  invading  tribes,  and  more- 
over is  constantly  in  danger  of  an  attack  from 
the  same  implacable  enemies,  who  never  give 
warning  of  their  intention,  but  announce  them- 
selves before  the  walls  of  some  town. 

We  dined  at  half  past  eleven,  and  at  noon  set 
out  for  Acaposinga,  where  we  arrived  at  seven 
o'clock  this  evening,  and  are  quartered  in  the 
Palace  of  the  Governor,  who  is  a  noble  of  the 
Inca  race,  named  Norenoulla. 


174 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Audience  Chamber.— Temple  of  the  Moon. — Departure 
from  Acaposinga. — The  Canoa. — Gymnasium. 

SATURDAY,  December  18th.  Acaposinga  may 
be  the  second  city  in  the  valley  in  point  of  size, 
but, — if  I  may  be  permitted  to  judge, — it,  un- 
doubtedly, would  carry  off  the  palm  for  the 
greatest  dearth  of  handsome  edifices,  were  it  not 
for  the  Governor's  palace.  This  redeeming  point 
is  most  beautiful,  and  its  principal  feature  is  the 
Audience  Chamber,  which  I  will  attempt  to 
describe. 

It  is,  at  least,  four  hundred  feet  long,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  wide,  and,  at  the  walls,  thirty  feet 
high.  I  say  at  the  walls  because  at  a  distance 
of  twenty-five  feet  from  them  there  are  two  rows 
of  porphyry  columns.  Instead  of  the  skylight 
being  directly  on  the  capitals  of  these,  a  wall 
rises  on  an  inwardly  inclined  angle  of  about  sixty- 
five  degrees,  and  at  a  height  of  sixty  feet  from 
the  floor  is  the  opening  to  admit  the  light,  and 
this  is  forty  feet  wide,  while  the  space  between 
the  two  ranges  of  pillars  is,  at  the  smallest  com- 


TEMPLE  OF  THE  MOON.  175 

putation,  ninety.  The  skylight  is  surmounted  by 
a  convex  entablature,  ornamented  with  a  long 
row  of  marble  vases,  and  the  walls  supporting  it 
are  draped  with  white  cloth  embroidered  with 
gold  flowers,  while  those  of  the  room  itself  are 
hung  with  crimson  and  gold  tapestry.  The  floor 
is  of  polished  porphyry,  and  a  double  row  of  large 
fountains  runs  the  whole  length  of  the  apartment 
between  the  ranges  of  columns.  The  Throne  is 
at  the  eastern  end,  under  a  splendid  canopy. ' 

This  afternoon  Orteguilla  took  Grey  and  me  to 
the  Temple  of  the  Moon,  which  is  a  clumsy 
looking  edifice  not  far  from  the  governor's  palace. 
It  is  built  of  granite;  about  twenty-four  feet 
high,  and  sixty  square.  In  the  centre  of  the 
front  is  a  portico  supported  by  four  vase-shaped 
columns, — and  ascended  to  by  means  of  a  flight 
of  eleven  steps, — exceeding  the  height  of  the  re- 
mainder of  the  building  by  two  or  three  feet,  and 
occupying  more  than  a  third  of  the  fagade. 
Twelve  feet  from  the  ground  is  a  narrow  cornice, 
beneath  which  the  erection  is  composed  of  plain 
blocks  of  stone,  but  above,  it  projects  about  three 
feet,  a  mass  of  carving  and  lattice  work  to  the 
entablature. 

The  only  entrance  is  beneath  the  portico,  and 
the  interior  of  the  structure  is  in  not  much  better 
taste  than  the  outside.  We  first  entered  the  hall, 


176  TEMPLE  OF  THE  MOON. 

which  is  the  width  of  the  portico  and  thirty  feet 
deep,  draped  with  white  cloth,  looped  up  at  regu- 
lar distances  to  display  an  underhanging  of  black. 
Passing  through  a  wide  opening  we  entered  the 
sanctuary,  which  occupies  the  northern  half  of 
the  building,  it  is  sixty  feet  long  and  thirty  wide, 
and  entirely  hung  with  black,  covered  with  silver 
stars.  Both  ends  are  open,  being  merely  covered 
in  daytime,  by  falls  of  tapestry  similar  to  that  on 
the  walls.  Opposite  to  the  entrance  was  a  dais, 
on  which  stood  four  altars  of  basalt  sprinkled 
with  silver  stars,  and  over  them  was  a  skylight 
supported  by  black  columns.  What  struck  me 
most,  however,  were  the  representations  of  the 
moon,  of  which  there  were  four,  one  over  each 
altar, — the  two  crescents,  the  half  and'full  moons. 
They  were  portrayed  by  black  balls,  on  which  the 
different  stages  of  the  orb  were  done  in  silver. 
On  each  of  the  altars  stood  a  square  cabinet  of 
silver  and  a  golden  vase  of  sacrifice.  There  were 
no  vases  of  the  months,  and  the  priests  were  few 
in  number,  while  their  singing  was  horrific.  We 
made  our  escape  as  soon  as  possible,  fully  satis- 
fied that  we  should  not  have  lost  much  by  remain- 
ing in  the  Palace. 

It  may  be  remembered  that  in  the  journal  of 
October  12th,  I  mentioned  my  having  seen  '  a 
cubical  monument,  about  sixteen  feet  high,  seven 


EETURN  TO   GERAL.  177 

feet  square  at  the  base,  and  four  at  the  top,  of 
white  marble,  surmounted  by  a  large  silver 
urn.'*  I  asked  Orteguilla  what  was  the  use  of 
this, — as  we  returned  from  the  Temple, — and 
learnt  that  blocks  of  stone  similar  to  the  above 
described  were  always  erected  in  commemoration 
of  some  great  event,  such  as  a  birth  or  death 
in  the  royal  family,  &c.,  &c.  He  tells  me  that 
there  are  over  seven  hundred  in  the  city  of  Geral 
alone. 

We  leave  here  to-morrow  morning  for  the  capi- 
tal by  water,  and  we  therefore  sent  Boyd  by 
land  this  afternoon,  with  the  horses,  mules,  pal- 
anquin, and  all  our  quantities  of  baggage  and 
purchases,  the  last  far  out-numbering  the  for- 
mer. 

Sunday,  December,  19th. — Safe  at  home  in  the 
palace  at  Geral  after  an  absence  of  only  ten 
days  !  I  declare  it  seems  like  a  month,  we  have 
seen  so  much.  We  departed  from  Acaposinga  at 
six  o'clock,  this  morning,  in  a  suite  of  most  superb 
canoas.  The  one  in  which  I  was,  was  that  appro- 
priated to  the  Inca,  and  was  about  fifty  feet  long, 
having  at  least  that  number  of  oarsmen.  It  was 
carved  out  of  cedar,  with  a  high  prow,  richly  gilt, 
and  wreathed  with  beautiful  flowers,  and  over  all 

*See  Chapter  XI. 


178  THE    ARSENAL. 

floated  the  royal  banner.  At  the  stern  was  a  pa- 
vilion of  stained  Rhea  feathers  supported  by 
slight  gold  columns,  with  a  beautiful  carpet  on 
the  deck.  The  cushions  and  couches  were  cover- 
ed with  crimson  cloth,  and  thin  curtains  of  some 
gold  woofed  material,  shaded  this  eastern  look- 
ing cabin. 

Such  was  the  canoa  in  which  we  came  up  the 
stream, — a  distance  of  thirty  odd  miles, — in  less 
than  six  hours  !  Thanks  to  the  huge,  clumsy 
looking,  triangular  sails,  that  took  the  place  of 
the  rowers  as  the  wind  sprung  up  from  the  right 
quarter  to  waft  us  on. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Naloma  there  are  many 
splendid  buildings,  especially  between  Acaposin- 
ga  and  Mixocolo,  one  of  which  is  the  Arsenal,  as 
we  would  call  it.  The  singular  disposition  of 
the  immense  flight  of  steps, — over  three  hundred 
feet  long, — the  tall  flag-stafls  around  it,  and  the 
seven  storied  tower,  looking  like  a  pile  of  cubical 
blocks  decreasing  in  size  as  they  rose,  struck 
Ned  so  forcibly  that  he  obtained  permission  from 
Orteguilla  to  stop  the  canoa  that  he  might  sketch 
it. 

The  stream  passes  through  the  city  of  Geral 
in  the  form  of  a  canal,  both  sides  of  which  are 
ornamented  with  parks  and  beautiful  residences. 
At  every  street  the  canal  is  crossed  by  a  bridge, 


PROPOSED   DEPARTURE.  179 

and  the  only  part  which  is  tunnelled  is  not  more 
than  a  thousand  feet,  it  being  under  the  prome- 
nade on  the  banks  of  the  lake.  We  were  land- 
ed in  the  park  of  Orteguilla's  palace,  and  walked 
from  there,  having  partaken  of  a  collation  on 
board  the  canoa. 

After  a  long  conversation  which  I  held  with 
Grey,  this  afternoon,  we  have  come  to  the  deter- 
mination of  taking  our  leave  of  the  valley  on 
Monday  the  third  of  January,  that  is  to  say, 
two  weeks  from  to-morrow,  all  of  which  time 
will  probably  be  occupied  in  preparing.  We 
have  not  as  yet  decided  which  route  we  shall  pur- 
sue in  order  to  gain  the  Atlantic  coast,  but  I 
think  that  it  is  very  likely  we  shall  return  the 
same  way  that  we  came.  We  start  at  the  above 
named  period,  although  it  is  rather  an  early  one, 
in  order  to  have  plenty  of  time  to  get  on  board 
a  vessel  for  the  United  States  before  the  rainy 
season  sets  in. 

Thursday,  December  23rd. — This  morning 
Orteguilla  came  to  the  palace,  and  asked  us  if  we 
would  like  to  see  the  Gymnasium  ;*  and  on  re- 
ceiving an  answer  in  the  affirmative,  he  conduct- 
ed us  up  the  street  of  the  Huaxtepec  for  six  or 

*  See  note  on  the  word  "  Mint,"  Chapter  XV. 


180  THE    GYMNASIUM. 

seven  blocks,  passing  the  Council  House  and 
two  of  the  many  public  parks  in  which  this  city 
abounds.  At  length  we  entered  an  oblong  enclo- 
sure, through  a  magnificent  gate.  At  the  east- 
ern and  western  ends  of  this  park  were  two  long, 
low  edifices  of  white  marble,  with  large  porticos 
supported  by  three  rows  of  the  vase-shaped 
columns.  These  buildings  were  about  seven  hun- 
dred feet  apart,  facing  each  other,  (all  the  inter- 
vening space  being  a  level  stone  pavement,)  and 
having  almost  the  whole  of  the  fa9ades  open,  on- 
ly covered,  the  western  by  a  blue,  and  the  other 
by  a  black  hanging.  Between  these  erections 
were  two  parallel  walls,  about  a  hundred  feet 
apart,  with  the  open  ends  toward  the  Temples, 
for  such  we  found  the  structures  to  be. 

These  walls  were  certainly  thirty  feet  high, 
exceedingly  thick,  and  over  five  hundred  feet 
long.  At  the  west  end  of  the  northern  one,  was 
a  small  but  handsome  edifice,  of  white  marble, 
on  a  terrace  the  same  height  as  the  wall, 
ascended  to  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps  with  the 
usual  snaky  banisters.  On  each  of  the  parallel 
walls,  on  their  inner  faces,  at  a  height  of  not  less 
than  twenty  feet,  projected  two  stone  rings, — 
some  distance  apart, — five  feet  in  diameter,  and 
eighteen  inches  thick,  the  hole  having  a  diameter 
of  one  foot. 


A  GAME.  181 

Unfortunately  for  my  curiosity,  there  was  no 
one  in  the  enclosure  besides  Orteguilla,  Ned  and 
myself,  so  that  we  could  not  learn  what  was  the 
use  of  these  rings,  by  sight ;  but  the  Inca  told  us 
that  they  were  used  to  play  a  game  with  balls, 
the  object  of  which  was  to  throw  the  ball  through 
the  hole,  which,  he  added,  was  so  rarely  done, 
that  the  fortunate  performer  was  entitled  to 
receive  a  gold  ochol  from  each  person  present. 
Orteguilla  told  us,  also,  that  the  space  between 
the  walls  was  used  for  athletic  exercises  by  the 
young  commoners  of  Geral.* 

*  See  Appendix  Number  One. 


10 


182 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  Year's  Day. — The  Empress's  Throne  Room. — Her  Cos- 
tume. — Farewell  Audience. — Presents. —  Departure  from  the 
Valley. 

SATURDAY,  January  the  first,  1848. — Forty- 
eight  !  The  eight  sounds  very  wrong,  and  looks 
so  too,  for  after  I  had  written  the  date  I  was 
called  away  for  an  instant,  and  when  I  came 
back,  the  first  thing  I  saw  was  the  figure  8 
staring  me  in  the  face.  I  thought  I  had  made  a 
mistake,  and  was  going  to  alter  it,  when  I  recol- 
lected that  it  was  New  Year's  Day.  And  a  most 
exquisite  day  it  is ;  a  cool  air  has  been  driving 
some  light  white  clouds  from  the  west,  now  and 
then  causing  them  to  obscure  the  sun ;  and  at 
other  times  their  shadows  come  flying  quickly  up 
the  broad  streets,  in  beautiful  contrast  with  the 
brilliancy  of  the  sunlight.  I  have  heard  some 
superstitious  people  say  that  this  moving  of  the 
clouds  was  a  prognostic  of  an  eventful  and  sor- 
rowful year,  may  He  avert  it  from  my  country ! 

The  birds  are  singing  in  the  aviary,  and  the 
flowers  are  tossing  their  perfumed  blossoms  about 


EMPRESS'S  THRONE  ROOM.  183 

in  the  pleasant  breeze.  I  am  not  able  to  write 
any  more  to-day,  as  here  comes  Ned  ready  for 
another  extravagant  expedition  and  invasion  of 
shops,  which  is  the  way  in  which  we  have  spent, 
not  only  this  morning,  but  the  last  nine  days. 

Sunday,  2nd. — This  morning  we  took  our  sol- 
emn farewell  of  Orteguilla,  in  the  presence  of  his 
court,  at  eleven  o'clock ;  and,  by  the  way,  it  was 
a  true  Irish  good-bye,  as  in  the  same  breath  that 
we  bade  each  other  adieu,  we  mutually  promised 
to  meet  in  the  evening,  in  the  Empress's  saloons, 
and  as  this  last  mentioned  will  be  the  real  one,  I 
consider  it  of  more  importance  than  that  from 
which  we  have  just  returned. 

At  eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening. — I  must 
describe  the  Reception  Room,  and  dress  of  Ahte- 
laqua,  while  they  are  still  fresh  in  my  memory. 

The  former  is  reached  by  passing  through  a 
suite  of  twenty  splendid  apartments,  opening 
into  one  another,  and  terminating  in  that  I  am 
going  to  describe,  which  is  an  immense  circular 
saloon,  hung  with  scarlet  and  gold  tapestry,  hav- 
ing two  rows  of  columns,  alternately  of  white  jas- 
par  and  porphyry.  Between  each  of  these  pil- 
lars depended  three  magnificent  golden  lamps, 
and  the  fountain  in  the  centre  of  the  room  was 
also  brilliantly  illuminated.  The  skylight  was 
covered,  for  the  time,  with  dark  blue  cloth  orna- 


184  AHTELAQUA'S  COSTUME. 

merited  with  gold  stars,  and  the  floor  with  a  crim- 
son carpet,  embroidered  with  bouquets  of  flowers 
in  their  natural  colours,  on  squares  of  white  intro- 
duced into  the  ground  work.  Large  vases  of  gold, 
filled  with  real  flowers,  tastefully  arranged,  stood 
about  the  floor  of  this  rather  too  gorgeous  apart- 
ment, and  gold  coloured  cushions,  embroidered 
with  the  same  precious  metal,  were  piled  about 
the  floor. 

The  throne  was  placed  opposite  to  the  entrance 
on  a  dais  of  seven  steps  covered  with  very  pale 
blue,  nearly  imperceptible  from  the  richness  of 
the  silver  embroidery.  The  chair  of  state  is  of 
massive  silver,  ornamented  with  precious  stones, 
with  splendidly  embroidered  cushions  of  lilac  and 
silver,  and  stands  under  a  canopy  of  mazarine 
blue  starred  with  diamonds. 

Reposing,  rather  than  sitting,  on  a  couch  of 
blue  and  silver  was  Ahtelaqua,  for  the  throne 
was  occupied  by  Orteguilla.  Her  white  under- 
dress  of  the  finest  mull  muslin, — Ned  and  I  knew 
very  well  where  it  had  come  from, — was  covered 
with  an  embroidery  of  diamonds  and  silver ;  her 
white  bodice  was  similarly  ornamented,  as  were 
the  hanging  sleeves.  Her  long,  ivory-like  arms 
were  nearly  concealed  by  the  most  valuable  brace- 
lets, and  necklaces  of  priceless  gems  were  fastened 


AHTELAQUA'S  COSTUME.  185 

round  her  throat.  Her  ear-rings*  were  massive 
gold  balls  encrusted  with  all  sorts  of  jewels,  and 
and  the  ruby  pendants  rested  on  her  rounded 
shoulders. 

But  the  diamond  that  adorned  the  front  of  her 
head  dress  was  worthy  of  her  high  station.  I 
am  convinced  that  it  must  weigh  over  a  thousand 
carats ;  it  is  of  the  first  water,  and  beautifully 
cut  and  polished.  The  plume  of  white  feathers 
that  rose  from  behind  the  frame  of  this  gem,  had 
each  of  the  stems  set  with  graduated  rubies.  At 
her  feet  were  seated  Ineralla  and  Garoda,  while 
her  son  Onameva  stood  behind  her.  On  the*steps 
of  the  dais  were  the  young  ladies-in-waiting  on 
the  Empress  and  the  two  princesses,  while  the  re- 
mainder of  the  apartment  was  filled  with  nobles 
and  ladies  in  full  dress,  positively  glowing  with 
jewels. 

As  we  entered,  the  Royal  Family  descended 
from  the  dais  to  meet  us,  and  conducted  us  to  the 
seats  which  had  been  prepared  for  us,  on  the  top 
of  the  seventh  step,  where  we  held  a  short  con- 
versation, and  then  took  our  last, — a  very  affec- 
tionate,— farewell  of  them.  Loaded  with  costly 
presents  we  retreated  from  the  presence,  and  in 

*  The  ears  of  both  sexes,— of  royal  rank,— are  cut  above  the 
lobe  when  quite  young,  and  are  sometimes  distended  to  dis- 
gusting length  by  the  heavy  ornaments  inserted, — for  beauty ! 


186  DEPARTURE. 

the  saloons  had  to  bid  adieu  to  our  many  friends, 
of  both  sexes,  all  of  whom  pressed  upon  us  some 
little  remembrance  of  them.  We  were  escorted 
from  one  palace  to  the  other  by  scores  of  nobles 
who  wished  to  see  all  they  could  of  us. 

I  neglected  to  mention  that  this  afternoon  Ned 
and  I  paid  a  last  visit  to  the  Tribunal  of  Music, 
the  Council  House,  and  several  other  public  build- 
ings which  I  have  before  described.  And  now, 
although  it  is  nearly  midnight,  I  must  go  and 
pack  up,  as  we  leave  at  seven  to-morrow. 

Monday,  January  3d.  We  took  our  last,  long 
look  ft  the  Palace,  at  the  time  above  mentioned. 
The  city  never  appeared  more  beautiful  than  when 
our  train  of  mules  wound  along  the  dike  amidst 
the  crowd  of  people  who  were  assembled  on  it  to 
witness  our  departure,  and  as  we  entered  the  For- 
tress of  Naloma,  I  felt  quite  a  choking  sensation 
in  my  throat,  which  had  an  entirely  independent 
cause  from  an  emerald  necklace  that  was  fastened 
there,  and  which  had  been  thrown  to  me,  by  the 
way,  from  the  top  of  a  house,  as  I  passed  from 
the  Street  of  the  Nobles. 

Cioaco,  Conatzin,  Palayn,  Onalpo,  Mavoga, 
and  a  good  many  other  of  our  friends,  accompa- 
nied us  as  far  as  Ameralqua,  where  they  bade  us 
their  final  adieu. 


QUAUHTILAN.  187 

It  is  needless  to  dwell  on  our  rapid  progress  to 
Quauhtilan,  where  we  arrived  at  five  in  the  after- 
noon, entering  the  walls,  which,  though  they  en- 
closed a  great  quantity  of  land,  had  but  a  small 
population  within  them.  One  temple  in  the  centre 
of  the  city  was  the  only  place  we  thought  worth 
visiting,  and  on  doing  so  decided  that  it  did  not 
repay  the  trouble. 

We  tethered  our  animals  in  the  market-place, 
and  easily  found  accommodations  for  ourselves  in 
a  private  house,  as  we  bore  a  thread  from  Orte- 
guilla's  borla,  which  he  'had  given  ue  so  that  we 
might  obtain  anything  we  were  in  want  of.  It 
proved  in  this  case  as  powerful  as  the  signet  of  a 
despot,  which  the  kind  Inca  certainly  was  not. 

We  spent  the  night  in  Quauhtilan  and  at  dawn 
commenced  ascending  the  terraced  sides  of  the 
mountain,  by  which  we  had  first  entered  the  val- 
ley; at  noon  we  reached  the  summit.  Look- 
ing back,  the  populous  territory  of  Geral  Milco 
was  visible  in  all  its  beauty,  for  a  second  time, 
but  under  different  circumstances  from  those 
which  depended  on  the  former  occasion,  nearly 
three  months  before.  Then  we  were  entering, 
uncertain  how  we  should  be  received,  and  at  this 
time  we  were  leaving  in  full  confidence  of  meet- 
ing a  cordial  welcome  should  we  ever  return. 

At  one  we  commenced  descending  the  eastern 


188  DESCENT  OF  THE  SIEKRA. 

declivity  of  the  Sierra,  and  gained  the  plain, 
without  accident,  by  sunset.  Here  we  encamped ; 
and  after  supper  decided  upon  returning  by  the 
way  of  Povoacao  and  Para,  if  we  could  procure  a 
boat  at  the  former  place  to  convey  us  to  the 
latter. 


189 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

What  occurred  on  the  Rout  from  the  Sierra  to  Povoacao. — A 
Little  too  Late. — Povoacao  to  Angejo.-^Conclusion. 

EARLY  on  Wednesday  morning  we  started  from 
the  Sierra,  and  in  two  hours  entered  the  forest, 
directing  our  course  towards  the  east.  At  night 
we  encamped  at  the  source  of  the  Rio  Oteicorolla, 
after  a  rather  long,  and  decidedly  fatiguing  ride, 
and  having  supped  we  made  up  our  fire  and  re- 
tired to  rest. 

We  had  not  slept  long  when  we  were  awaken- 
ed by  a  wild  yell,  and  found  that  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  savages  !  Starting  to  my  feet,  I  seized 
my  '  Revolver,'  and  fired  the  six  barrels,  as  quick- 
ly as  I  could  ;  and  they  were  followed  by  another 
half  dozen  from  that  of  Grey,  who  now  brought 
forward  our  rifles,  while  I  commenced  reloading 
the  pistols.  The  Indians, — for  so  I  suppose  I 
may  call  them, — now  discharged  a  flight  of  arrows 
and  retreated  a  few  steps,  evidently  alarmed,  and 
leaving  several  of^eir  comrades  on  the  ground, 
severely  hurt.  They  would  have  been  killed  if 
we  could  have  seen  our  enemies  distinctly,  which 
10* 


190  ATTACK. 

we  were  not  able  to  do,  although  they  stood  in 
the  clear  moonlight,  for  our  fire  was  very  bright, 
and  they,  consequently,  could  take  better  aim  at 
us.  But  their  fright  from  the  discharge  of  the 
pistols  was  so  great  as  to  prevent  them  from  direct- 
ing their  arrows  truly ;  we  could  not,  otherwise, 
have  escaped  unwounded,  as  we  happily  did. 

Ned  extinguished  the  fire,  while  I  continued  to 
load  the  fire-arms,  and  the  Boyds  to  keep  up  a 
galling  discharge  of  rifles,  which  soon  dispersed 
our  foes,  who  fled  with  horrible  yells.  We  did 
not  pursue  them,  as  we  did  not  wish  to  leave  our 
baggage  and  mules  at  the  mercy  of  any  other 
band  that  might  chance  to  follow  in  the  track  of 
our  late  assailants  ;  nor  did  we  feel  any  particular 
desire  to  walk  into  an  ambuscade  for  the  purpose  of 
obliging  the  savages.  We,  consequently,  kept  a 
watch  during  the  night,  but  remained  undisturbed 
save  by  the  ravenous  musquitoes,  who  appeared 
to  have  a  violent  wish  to  rival  the  Indians  in  annoy- 
ing us.  They  succeeded  better,  and  between  the 
two,  none  of  us  were  troubled  with  a  superabund- 
ant portion  of  somnolence. 

As  we  were  watering  our  horses,  the  next  morn- 
ing, preparatory  to  starting  on  the  day's  journey, 
we  were  interrupted  by  a  trwnendous  flight  of 
arrows,  none  of  which,  providentially,  struck  us. 
Looking  in  the  direction  from  which  we  had  been 


TOO  LATE.  191 

thus  rudely  saluted,  we  saw  a  number  of  savage 
warriors,  scattered  through  the  forest  and  along 
the  banks  of  the  stream.  Mounting  our  horses, 
we  galloped  towards  the  largest  body  assembled 
on  the  latter,  and  discharged  our  pistols.  For  a 
moment  they  were  paralysed  with  fear,  caused 
most  probably  by  our  animals,  and  then,  with 
terrific  cries  of  horror,  they  took  to  their  heels, 
disappearing  in  the  dense  forest,  with  the  rapidity 
of  thought.  We  were  not  troubled  by  the  savages 
again,  but  arrived  at  Povoacao,  safe  and  sound, 
and  without  further  hindrance  of  any  sort,  on  the 
evening  of  the  ensuing  Wednesday — January  the 
12th. 

Here  we  found  that  there  was  not  a  single  boat 
of  any  sort,  the  last  having  sailed  two  days  before, 
and  that  there  was  not  the  slightest  probability 
of  any  one  coming  until  after  the  close  of  the 
rainy  season.  This  was  provoking,  but  there  was 
no  help  for  it,  and  we  did  not  know  what  to  do. 
It  did  not  suit  us  exactly  to  go  to  the  Atlantic 
coast,  by  land,  nor  did  we  relish  any  better, 
crossing  the  Andes,  and  proceeding  to  Lima. 
Ned  and  I  took  a  map  in  order  to  find  some  way 
of  getting  home,  and,  after  a  long  consultation, 
decided  upon  penetrating  eastwardly  to  the  town 
of  Angeja,  on  the  Araquay,  opposite  the  island 
of  Bannanal, — where  we  were  assured  that  boats 


192  BEAUTIFUL  VIEW. 

could  always  be  procured.  There  was  no  time 
for  hesitation,  so  we  packed  up  again  immediately 
and  started  at  three  o'clock  on  Thursday  after- 
noon, having  been  only  seventeen  hours  in 
Povoacao. 

Monday,  January  17th.  We  had  not  gone 
more  than  four  miles  from  our  last  night's  camp- 
ing ground,  when  the  trees  suddenly  ceased,  and 
a  magnificent  view  presented  itself.  A  plain, — 
about  thirteen  miles  in  length,  and  three  in  width, 
thinly  scattered  with  groups  of  the  gigantic,  but 
graceful,  palm,  was  spread  before  us, — sweeping 
up,  on  the  northern  and  southern  sides,  into  moun- 
tains, whose  summits  were  enveloped  in  clouds. 
From  an  elevated  plateau  of  the  former  range, 
a  mountain  torrent  sprang  down  from  rock 
to  rock, — looking  like  a  silver  thread, — bridged 
with  rainbows,  or  rather  spray-bows,  and  having 
reached  its  bed,  wound  its  tortuous  way  through 
the  plain,  a  mass  of  mimic  but  tumultuous  whirl- 
pools. The  mountains  were  piles  of  immense 
blocks  of  stone,  whose  dull  grey  colour  was, — 
here  and  there, — relieved  by  a  cluster  of  sturdy 
pines  on  the  higher  regions,  and  of  jacaranthas 
on  the  lower. 

A  large  number  of  wild  horses  were  drinking 
at  one  part  of  the  stream,  while  a  magnificent  jet 
black  animal  appeared  to  be  acting  as  sentinel, 


ARRIVAL  AT  PARA.  193 

for  as  we  issued  from  the  woods,  he  neighed 
shrilly,  and  the  rest,  throwing  up  their  beautifully 
shaped  heads,  joined  in  chorus  with  him  and 
bounded  off  into  the  forest,  which  formed  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  valley,  with  their  long 
manes  and  tails  blowing  about  in  the  pleasant 
breeze. 

We  got  to  Angeja  on  Tuesday  morning,  Janu- 
ary 25th,  at  half  past  eleven  o'clock,  without 
having  met  with  anything  calculated  to  excite  us, 
save  the  exquisite  scenery  through  which  our  long 
path  constantly  led  us.  At  this  settlement  we 
found  quite  a  presentable  sloop  which  we  char- 
tered forthwith,  to  take  us  to  Para,  where  we 
landed,  safely  in  six  days  that  is  to  say  on  the 
first  of  February. 

I  have  hurried  through  the  last  part  of  my 
journey,  as  nothing  occurred  that  is  worthy  of 
mention,  I  being, — unfortunately,  perhaps,  for 
my  readers,  and  quite  the  contrary  for  myself, — 
one  of  those  travellers  to  whom  adventures  are, 
4  like  angels'  visits,  few  and  far  between.' 

And  what  is  the  use  of  dragging  the  reader 
through  the  dull,  monotonous  detail  of  a  sea 
voyage  from  Para  to  New  Orleans,  and  thence  to 
Charleston  ?  I  answer  for  myself, — none  at  all. 
So  I  bid, — to  all  who  have  tried  their  powers  of 


194  CONCLUSION. 

patience  in  order  to  get  through  this  dry  produc- 
tion,— what  I  sincerely  hope, — if  they  do  not, — - 
will  be  but  "au  revoir,"  not  "adieu." 

A.  R.  MlDDLETOUN  PAYNE. 

Wednesday,  August  29th,  1849. 


APPENDIX. 
No.  I. 

The   Tianguez,  (Chap.  X.) ;    and  Gymnasium, 
(Chap.  XXIII.) 

AT  the  ruins  of  Chichen  Itza  in  Yucatan, 
there  are  the  remains  of  two  structures,  the  uses 
of  which  have  puzzled  many  a  wiser  head  than 
mine.  One  of  these  is  supposed  by  many  anti- 
quarians, to  have  been  a  gymnasium,  or  tennis 
court,  and  it  is  my  pleasant  duty  to  confirm  this 
opinion.  The  second  building, — and  that  of 
which  I  shall  first  write, — has  hitherto  been  an 
inexplicable  mystery,  no  one  having  an  idea  of 
what  it  was  originally  intended  for. 

The  remains  of  it  are  but  ill  calculated  to  form 
a  foundation  for  even  antiquarians  to  build  upon, 
and  they  are,  frequently,  clever  people,  particu- 
larly expert  in  erecting  *  Chateaux  en  EspagneJ 
which  they  do  without  the  slightest  provocation 
or  compunction.  Palenque,  or  more  properly, 
Otolum,  was  elevated  in  the  atmosphere  for  some 
time  by  an  ingenious  person,  but  all  his  brother 


196  APPENDIX,  NO.  I. 

searchers  after  queer  things,  piled  so  much  on  top 
of  this  aerial  city,  that  the  whole  of  it  came 
down,  one  day,  to  its  proper  level,  with  a  grand 
crash. 

But  the  ruin  in  question  has  been  found  to  be 
in  so  many  little  pieces  that  it  has  not  had  the 
honour  of  being  RESTORED, — as  they  call  it, — 
although  many  schemes  have  been  proposed  for 
that  purpose.  It  is  an  enclosure  four  hundred 
feet  square,  surrounded  by  four  rows  of  granite 
piers,  which  are  of  all  sorts  of  heights,  from  seven 
feet  two  inches, — the  highest  I  measured  in 
1888, — down  to  the  slight  indentation  in  the 
ground  where  one  7ias  stood. 

Now  it  is  not  for  a  young  man  like  me  to 
assert  such  an  important  thing,  while  so  very 
many  of  the  above  mentioned  old  aerial  archi- 
tects have  cogitated  upon  it  for  such  a  length  of 
time  without  coming  to  any  conclusion,  and, 
therefore,  I  must  content  myself  by  inquiring, — 
Is  not  this  incomprehensible,  unelevatable,  unre- 
storable  ruin,  the  remains  of  a  market  place  ?  The 
absence  of  any  slabs  of  granite  that  might  have 
served  as  part  of  a  roof,  may  be  easily  accounted 
for,  as  although  the  Tianguez  in  Greral  had  a 
stone  ceiling,  that  at  Acaposinga  was  roofed  with 
cedar  beams  and  palm  leaves. 

To  turn  to  the  Gymnasium.     In  this  case  there 


APPENDIX,  NO.  I.  197 

is  nothing  to  prove,  the  dispositions  of  the  details 
of  both  being  precisely  the  same  at  Geral  and  at 
Chichen  Itza.  The  Temple  at  each  end,  the 
raised  edifice  for  the  judge  of  the  games,  and  the 
thick'  parallel  walls  are  the  same  in  both,  only 
varying  in  size,  and  in  the  dedication  of  the  Tem- 
ples,— at  Geral  to  the  Sun  and  Moon,  and  at  the 
other  to  some  of  their  outlandish  gods. 


198 


APPENDIX. 

No.  2. 
The  New  Calendar.— (Chapter  XVII.) 

THE  names  of  the  days  of  the  month  are : — 
Ac,  Chi-ac,  Mal-ac,  Hun-ac, 

011-ac,  Kab-ac,  Zter-ac,  comprising  1st  week. 
En,  Chi-en,  Mal-en,  Hun-en, 

Oil-en,  Kab-en,  7>er-en,  "         2d     " 

Ila,    Chi-ila,  Mal-ila,  Hun- 

ila,  011-ila,  Kab-ila,  Der- 

ila,  .  .  ,"        3d     "     . 

Cum,     Chi-cum,     Mal-cum, 

Hun-cum,  011-cum,  Kab- 

cum,  Zter-cum,     .  .          "        4th    " 

TThe  thirteen  months  have  each  twenty-eight 
days  with  the  exception  of  Memib,  which  is  now 
the  last  month  of  the  year.  It  has  always 
twenty-nine  days, — the  29th  being  called  Ene- 
da, — and  on  leap-year  it  has  a  thirtieth  known  as 
Bajeca. 


199 


The  days  of  our  months,  upon  which  the  Ge- 
ralian  months  commence,  are  as  follows : — 


1. 

2. 
3. 
4. 
5. 
6. 


Olab 

Canno 

Malan 

Cop 

Xoo 

Zina 

7.  Naon 

8.  Pavan 

9.  Quiloo 
10.  Kaniem 

Geb 
Alac 


11. 
12. 


on 


13.  Memib      " 


June  9th. 
July  7th. 
August  4th. 
September  1st. 
September  29th. 
October  27th. 
November  24th. 
December  22d. 
January  19th. 
February  16th. 
March  16th. 
April  13th. 
May  llth. 


The  above  list  is  not  made  for  a  leap  year,  as 
then,  Geb  would  begin  on  March  15th,  Alac  on 
April  12th,  and  Memib  on  May  10th. 


200 


APPENDIX. 
No.  3. 

The  following  is  the  list  of  the  state  of  the 
thermometer  as  I  noticed  it  from  October  llth 
to  the  1st  of  January. 


Day  of  the 

Week. 

Month. 

Day  of  the 
Month. 

Tii 

H. 

ne. 

M. 

Thermo- 
meter. 

Monday, 

October 

11 

3 

6 

88° 

Tuesday, 

12 

1 

40 

87° 

Wednesday, 

13* 

12 

90° 

Thursday, 

14 

1 

10 

88° 

Friday, 

15 

1 

7 

94° 

Saturday, 

16 

1 

38 

78° 

Sunday, 

17 

1 

50 

75° 

Monday, 

18 

3 

9 

98° 

Tuesday, 

19 

2 

30 

96° 

Wednesday, 

20 

12 

25 

87° 

Thursday, 

21 

3 

18 

94° 

Friday, 

22 

1 

6 

91° 

Saturday, 

23 

12 

43 

83o 

Sunday, 

24 

2 

12 

88° 

Monday, 

25 

4 

27 

84° 

Tuesday, 

26 

1 

12 

76° 

Wednesday, 

27 

3 

42 

87° 

Thursday, 

" 

28 

2 

9 

80° 

Friday, 

M 

25) 

12 

13 

81° 

Saturday, 

" 

30 

1 

89° 

Sunday, 

it 

31 

3 

50 

94° 

Monday, 

November, 

1 

2 

20 

90° 

Tuesday, 

it 

2 

1 

39 

83° 

APPENDIX,  NO.  III. 


201 


Day  of  the 
Week. 

Month. 

Day  of  the 
Month. 

T 

H. 

me. 

M. 

Thermo- 
meter. 

Wednesday,  |  November, 

3 

12 

25 

97° 

Thursday, 

u 

4 

3 

46 

99° 

Friday, 

«i 

5 

12 

78^ 

Saturday, 

u 

6 

12 

83° 

Sunday, 

(t 

7 

3 

16 

95° 

Monday, 

II 

8 

1 

25 

88° 

Tuesday, 

u 

9 

2 

48 

92° 

Wednesday, 

li 

10 

12 

30 

76° 

Thursday, 

tl 

11 

1 

6 

85° 

Friday, 

(1 

12 

1 

18 

84° 

Saturday, 

(I 

13 

3 

15 

97° 

Sunday, 

(I 

14 

2 

30 

89° 

Monday, 

II 

15 

1 

12 

770 

Tuesday, 

H 

16 

12 

40 

90° 

Wednesday, 

11 

17 

12 

15 

99o 

Thursday, 

H 

18 

3 

10 

99o 

Friday,  * 

II 

19 

3 

25 

106o 

Saturday, 

It 

20 

3 

40 

98° 

Sunday, 

tt 

21 

2 

16 

93° 

Monday, 

«« 

22 

12 

50 

79° 

Tuesday, 

(t 

23' 

3 

13 

104° 

Wednesday, 

II 

24 

1 

9 

91° 

Thursday, 

(1 

25 

12 

40 

84o 

Friday, 

U 

26 

2 

8 

78o 

Saturday, 

" 

27 

2 

14 

85o 

Sunday, 

U 

28 

3 

12 

99o 

Monday, 

(t 

29 

12 

30 

76o 

Tuesday, 

It 

30 

1 

45 

89o 

Wednesday, 

December, 

1 

3 

6 

108o 

Thursday, 

ti 

2 

1 

30 

94o 

Friday, 

it 

3 

12 

25 

80o 

Saturday, 

u 

4 

2 

40 

95o 

Sunday, 

» 

5 

1 

54 

72o 

Monday, 

it 

6 

12 

10 

87o 

Tuesday, 

it 

7 

3 

15 

93o 

Wednesday, 

ii 

8 

3 

50 

105o 

Thursday, 

it 

9 

1 

28 

99° 

Friday, 
Saturday, 

tt 
it 

10 
11 

3 

12 

45 
6 

89° 
71° 

Sunday, 

ti 

12             1 

25 

88° 

202 


APPENDIX,  NO.  III. 


Day  of  the 

Week. 

Month. 

Day  of  the 

Month. 

Ti 

H. 

me. 

M. 

Thermo, 
meter. 

Monday, 

December, 

13 

2 

30 

76° 

Tuesday, 

(t 

14 

1 

12 

94° 

Wednesday 

it 

15 

3 

45 

101° 

Thursday,, 

" 

16 

3 

27 

114° 

Friday, 

it 

17 

3 

9 

100° 

Saturday, 

t. 

18 

12 

15 

85° 

Sunday, 

u 

19 

2 

8 

94° 

Monday, 

tt 

20 

1 

35 

89° 

Tuesday, 

tt 

21 

12 

45 

770 

Wednesday, 

tt 

22 

3 

97° 

Thursday, 

» 

23 

3 

16 

106° 

Friday, 

it 

24 

1 

92° 

Saturday, 

it 

25 

2 

30 

96° 

Sunday, 

tt 

26 

2 

45 

98° 

Monday, 

it 

27 

2 

94° 

Tuesday, 

11 

28 

3 

18 

110° 

Wednesday, 

it 

29 

3 

15 

1050 

Thursday, 

ti 

30 

12 

30 

86° 

Friday, 

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97° 

SUPPLEMENT 


G  E  R  A  L-M  I  L  C  0, 

BY 

A.  R.  MIDDLETOUN  PAYNE. 


INTKODUCTION 


SUPPLEMENT. 


IT  is  now  full  two  years  since  I  completed  the 
foregoing  portion  of  this  volume ;  but  all  those 
kind  friends  who  have  done  me  the  honour  to 
read  it,  in  its  manuscript  form,  protest  against  its 
shortness,  and  have  thus  persuaded  me  to  com- 
mence a  few  supplementary  chapters  on  the  man- 
ners and  customs  of  the  Valley  of  the  Incas,  in 
order  to  increase  its  length. 

I  cannot  even  expect  them  to  prove  other 
than  dry  and  tedious  to  many  readers,  for  as 
this  appendix  is  to  be  written  far  from  the  Val- 
ley, and  chiefly  from  recollection  and  a  few  hier- 
oglyphical  works,  the  labour  of  translating  these 
has  deprived  me  of  all  that  enthusiastic  excite- 
ment under  the  influence  of  which  the  first  part 
of  the  work  was  written. 

A.    R.    MlDDLETOUN   PAYNE. 

September  19th,  1851. 
11 


PART  SECOND. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Government,  Revenue,  Military  and  Civil  Institutions,  etc. 

IN  treating  upon  such  important  subjects,  it  is 
perhaps  scarcely  proper  for  me  to  judge  merely 
by  the  personal  experience  of  an  eighty  days'  resi- 
dence, but  some  excuse  may  exist  in  the  *act  of 
my  being  the  first  traveller  to  penetrate  into  the 
Valley  of  Geral,  and  make  any  stay  -within  it. 
Notwithstanding  the  short  space  of  time  which 
Grey  and  myself  remained  the  guest  of  the  hospi- 
table descendants  of  the  ancient  Peruvians,  it 
must  be  acknowledged  that  we  had  remarkable 
facilities  afforded  us  to  notice  the  working  of  the 
machinery  of  state,  by  our  daily  intercourse  with 
its  sole  director,  the  Inca  Orteguilla:  travelling 
with  him,  residing  in  his  palaces,  the  private 
audience  chambers  always  open  to  us,  even  when 


208  GOVERNMENT. 

closed  against  tlie  High  Priest  of  the  Sun  himself; 
entertained  by  him  in  private  and  in  public ; 
and  visited  by  him,  without  ceremony,  at  all  hours. 
But  of  course  even  this  unrestrained  communion 
could  not  place  in  our  possession  all  the 
knowledge  necessary  for  a  correct  delineation  of 
the  minute  ramifications  of  the  government 
throughout  the  Incalate,  to  obtain  which  we  have 
been  obliged  to  resort  to  the  hieroglyphical  manu- 
scripts of  the  country,  which  were  easily  procured 
though  not  so  easily  read. 

We  beg,  th  orefore,  that  it  may  be  understood  our 
principal  authorities  for  this  first  chapter, — and 
indeed  the  greater  part  of  the  volume, — are  the 
three  following, — "  The  True  History  of  the  In- 
calate, by  Loverca  of  Acaposinga,"  "  The  Govern- 
ment of  Geral,  by  Caonaga  of  Nalava,"  and  "  The 
Institutions  of  Geral  by  Valai'on  of  Nalava." 
These  writers  are  all  amataus  in  the  great  college 
of  the  Capital,  and  are  probably  the  best  authori- 
ties to  be  found,  certainly  the  most  modern  that 
we  could  obtain,  as  they  were  all  issued  during 
our  stay  in  Geral.  The  work  of  Valaion  is  the 
most  extensive  of  the  three  as  regards  the  subjects 
treated  of,  and  its  size ;  it  covers  in  its  hierogly- 
phic form,  two  hundred  and  thirty  seven  folds,  or 
pages,  each  seven  inches  long  by  twelve  in  width; 
the  character  in  which  it  is  written  is  small  and 


GOVERNMENT.  209 

extremely  legible,  and  the  composition  very  flu- 
ently worded,  being  by  far  the  best  specimen 
of  Geralian  literature  that  I  have  as  yet  met  with 
amongst  my  very  large  collection.  The  other 
two  works  are  much  smaller,  scarcely  numbering 
seventy  five  folds  between  them ;  the  l  History  of 
the  Incalate'  having  but  twenty-two,  and  the 
'  Government  of  Geral'  forty  nine.  This  last  is 
more  like  a  code  by  which  to  guide  the  state, 
than  a  book  for  the  information  of  the  public,  and 
as  such  is  extremely  minute  in  all  its  details  in 
regard  to  the  legislation  of  both  civil  and  military 
and  religious  affairs,  being  precisely  the  thing  for 
my  purpose,  and  I  render  thanks  to  the  Amatau 
Caonaga  for  having  written  it. 

To  begin  then.  The  Government  of  Geral  is 
an  hereditary  absolute  monarchy,  the  Inca  being 
the  State,  the  head  of  all  military,  civil  and  reli- 
gious institutions ;  from  him  emanate  all  laws, 
they  being  ratified  by  the  Council  of  Nobles,  the 
power  of  which  assembly  is  altogether  nominal, 
not  only  from  reverence  to  the  Inca,  who  is  look- 
ed upon  as  the  Son  of  the  Sun,  but  also  from  a 
total  incapacity  to  act,  being  unorganized  and  not 
permitted  to  think  for  itself.  The  Inca  is  a  des- 
pot,— whether  tyrannical  or  not  depends  consider- 
ably upon  his  natural  character, — whose  edicts 
are  uncontrovertible,  save  by  himself.  Next  to 


210  GOVERNMENT. 

him  are  three  dignitaries,  the  High  Priest  of  the 
Sun,  the  Commandant  of  Acaposinga,  (the  head 
of  the  military  forces,)  and  the  President  of  the 
Valley,  who  is  the  grand  master  of  police  and 
also  the  supreme  judge  in  matters  of  legislative 
power.  Under  the  High  Priest  of  the  Sun  are 
the  High  Priests  of  the  various  cities  of  the  Inca- 
late,  who  rule  over  all  the  temples  in  their 
respective  diocesi ;  each  temple  has  its  Vicar  Gen- 
eral, who,  in  his  turn,  oversees  the  conduct  of  the 
priests  and  neophytes,  and  is  responsible  to  the 
High  Priest  of  his  diocess  for  all  the  misdemean- 
ors of  his  underlings.  Then  there  are  the  con- 
vents of  the  priestesses  and  novices,  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  High  Priest  of  the  Sun 
himself,  without  any  intermediate  power,  save 
that  of  the  individual  Vicaress  Generals.  He 
holds  his  court  at  Geral,  and  makes  an  annual 
tour  through  the  Incalate  to  inquire  into  griev- 
ances, in  company  with  the  Inca,  or  Supreme 
Head  of  the  Church,  who  consecrates  all  the  tem- 
ples finished  since  the  previous  year's  visit.  One 
of  the  principal  officers  under  the  High  Priest  of 
the  Sun  is  the  Overseer  of  the  Temples,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  see  that  all  the  religious  edifices  in 
the  valley  are  built  in  accordance  with  the  laws 
laid  down  by  the  founder  of  the  dynasty. 

I  now  turn  to  the  military  department,  whose 


MILITARY  DEPARTMENT.  211 

head— under  the  Inca — is  the  Commandant  of 
Acaposinga,  holding  his  court  in  that  city,  which 
is  the  great  arsenal  of  the  Incalate.  Under  him 
are  the  military  governors  of  the  different  cities 
and  fortresses,  and  the  Master  of  the  Arsenals, 
an  important  personage  who  has  the  inspection 
of  all  the  storehouses  in  the  valley,  each  of  which 
has  a  resident  inspector  to  keep  it  in  order.  All 
the  military  governors  taken  together  form  a 
Court  Martial,  before  which  are  tried  all  offences 
against  the  discipline  of  the  army,  which  is,  as  a 
whole,  divided  in  bodies  or  squares — as  they  are 
called — of  fifty  men,  the  fiftieth  being  its  com- 
mander, and  preserver  of  its  conduct.  A  divi- 
sion commanded  by  a  captain,  consists  of  eight 
of  these  squares,  two  captains  and  their  troops 
being  quartered  in  every  city  and  fortress,  under 
the  control  of  its  governor.  A  square  of  soldiers 
is  stationed  at  every  arsenal,  under  the  command 
of  the  Resident  Inspector,  and  these  various 
bodies  are  moved  about  at  the  order  of  the  Com- 
mandant of  Acaposinga,  under  the  Inca's  sign 
.manual. 

The  third  department  of  the  government  is  the 
civil,  beneath  the  direction  of  the  President  of 
the  Valley,  who,  in  his  capacity  of  Judge,  has 
two  associate  Judges,  one  for  the  northern  and 
one  for  the  central  district  of  the  Valley,  who 


212  GOVERNMENT. 

have  under  them  a  Judge  for  every  city  in  their 
portion  of  the  Incalate ;  these  again  have  numer- 
ous subordinate  magistrates  in  every  village,  town 
and  community,  dispensing  justice  to  a  certain 
number  of  people.  The  population  of  the  Valley, 
in  the  aggregate,  is  divided  into  parties  of  ten 
families,  the  head  of  the  tenth  being  the  overseer 
of  the  duties  of  all  the  others ;  every  five  of  these 
.parties  are  supervised  by  one  of  the  above  men- 
tioned magistrates,  who  keeps  a  register  contain- 
ing the  names,  age,  sex,  occupation  and  wealth 
of  every  individual  in  the  fifty  families  beneath 
his  care.  Of  this  register  three  duplicates  are 
made,  one  to  be  forwarded  to  the  judge  of  the 
city,  another  to  the  district  judge,  and  the  third 
to  the  President  of  the  Valley,  which  last  is 
placed  in  the  care  of  the  Officer  of  the  Bolls,  who 
can  at  any  moment  give  the  precise  population  of 
the  Valley,  the  average  age  and  wealth ;  the 
distribution  of  labour  is  apportioned  by  these 
rolls. 

The  President  of  the  Valley  has  also  under  his 
orders  the  civil  governors  of  the  cities,  who  have 
all  power  concerning  matters  of  police,  establish- 
ing officers  similar  to  our  sheriffs,  who  rule  over  the 
subordinate  officials  who  preserve  the  public  tran- 
quillity, by  arresting  all  the  disturbers  of  it :  these 
are  arraigned  before  the  sheriffs,  and  on  condem- 


CIVIL  DEPARTMENT.  213 

nation  are  sentenced,  for  a  time  proportioned  to 
their  offence,  either  to  serve  in  the  army  or  labour 
.n  the  state  works.  Incendiarism,  robbery,  brawl- 
ing on  the  highway,  and  assault  and  battery,  are 
punishable  in  this  way ;  but  if  this  last  offence, 
or  that  of  incendiarism,  prove  the  cause  of  the 
death  of  any  one,  the  criminal  is  sentenced  to 
solitary  confinement  in  one  of  the  state  prisons. 
Murder  and  homicide,  with  crimes  of  that  class, 
are  expiated  by  strangulation ;  but  such  cases  are 
extremely  rare,  and  are  tried  by  the  district 
judges  in  person,  "aided  by  the  civil  governor  of 
the  place  in  which  the  deed  was  committed. 

The  Councils  on  War,  on  Domestic  Affairs,  and 
on  the  State  of  the  Temples,  are  composed  of  the 
Inca,  the  High  Priest  of  the  Sun,  the  Command- 
ant of  Acaposinga,  and  the  President  of  the  Val- 
ley. 

This  is  all  that  I  deem  necessary  to  state  on 
the  subject  of  government,  turning  next  to  the 
sources  of  revenue,  and  its  distribution. 

There  are  no  taxes,  no  foreign  commerce,  and 
consequently  no  tariff;  the  revenue  therefore  con- 
sists of  the  products  of  the  mines,  quarries,  plan- 
tations, manufactories,  and  principally,  in  the 
ownership  of  the  immense  droves  of  llamas  that 
roam  the  upper  plateaus  of  the  mountains,  tended 
by  numerous  shepherds  in  the  payment  of  the  gov- 


214  KEVENUE. 

ernment.  No  person  is  permitted  to  own  a  sin- 
gle one  of  these  invaluable  animals  save  the 
State,  unless  by  special  edict  of  the  Inca,  who 
frequently  grants  the  right  of  possessing  them  to 
some  of  the  private  manufactories  of  woollen 
cloths. 

The  mines  are  the  greatest  source  of  revenue, 
and  are  of  gold,  silver  and  copper ;  the  first  of 
these  are  situated  in  the  Edarallaquatepec,  the 
whole  of  which  is  deeply  impregnated  with  the 
precious  ore.  It  is  also  taken  in  enormous  quan- 
tities from  the  bed  of  a  small  stream  issuing  from 
the  mountains  of  Pocotatl, — the  western  boundary 
of  the  Valley, — which  are  also  mined  to  a  great 
extent.  The  course  of  the  stream  is  semi-annu- 
ally  altered,  being  six  months  in  its  natural 
channel,  and  the  remainder  of  the  year  in  an 
artificial  one,  constructed  parallel  to  the  former ; 
when  the  water  is  turned  from  one  of  these,  the 
ensuing  half  year  is  employed  by  the  workmen  in 
removing  the  lumps  of  gold  from  the  clefts  in  the 
rocks,  where  it  has  been  deposited  by  the  water 
since  the  last  operation,  and  thus  a  continual 
harvest  is  gathered,  which  is  refined  in  the  large 
workshops,  close  at  hand,  melted,  cast  into  ingots, 
and  despatched  every  twenty  days  to  the  capital, 
where  it  is  coined  as  I  have  previously  detailed. 

The  silver  mines  must  be,  according  Valaion, 


KEVENUE.  215 

very  remarkable,  and  had  we  known  of  their  sin- 
gularity we  most  assuredly  would  have  visited 
them.  The  ore  is  so  pure  that  it  is  chiseled  out, 
as  in  the  mine  of  Huantajaya,  in  lumps  of  vari- 
ous sizes,  and  it  is  unnecessary  to  refine  it,  the 
act  of  melting  it  being  sufficient  to  drive  off  all 
its  impurities.  These  profitable  "  diggins,"  exist 
within  the  walls  of  the  capital,  in  the  Huaxtepec, 
upon  whose  terraces  Grey  and  I  have  often  pro- 
menaded, unknowing  what  we  could  have  seen 
within  the  hill. 

The  copper  can  scarcely  be  said  to  be  mined  but 
rather  quarried,  as  the  excavation  has  been  com- 
menced at  the  surface  and  carried  down  to  a 
depth  of  two  hundred  feet  and  more,  at  the  base 
of  the  mountain  of  Imamba,  named  after  a  small 
town  situated  in  the  extreme  north-western  cor- 
ner of  the  Valley,  not  more  than  ten  miles 
from  the  city  of  Xaromba.  Valaion  writes  that 
this  portion  of  the  Incalate  has  been  rendered 
unhealthy,  and  unfruitful  by  the  opening  of  this 
mine,  which  can  be  accounted  for  probably  by 
the  presence  of  a  "great  quantity  of  yellowish 
dust,"  which  he  subsequently  mentions  as  being 
precipitated  by  the  action  of  the  fire  in  the  kilns 
•where  a  portion  pf  the  copper  ore  is  melted  and 
cast  into  ingots.  This  dust  is,  of  course,  sul- 


216  REVENUE. 

phur.     Another  part  of  metal  is  pressed  and  rol- 
led into  plates  for  manufacturers. 

All  these  mines  are  worked  to  the  utmost  ex- 
tent by  the  government  and  their  products  come 
direct  to  the  capital,  where  they  are  divided  in 
certain  proportions  between  the  mint  and  the 
Tianguez,  in  the  first  of  which  places  the  metal 
is  coined,  and  in  the  second  sold  to  the  highest 
bidder.  The  money  thus  produced  is  deposited 
in  the  mint  and  distributed  in  a  manner  to  be  de- 
scribed further  on. 

The  great  salt  mines  of  the  Atolatepec  form 
another  item  to  swell  the  revenue;  their  pro- 
ducts are  immense,  and  are  disposed  of  at  the 
mountain  itself,  carried  away  by  the  wholesale 
purchasers  to  retail  in  their  respective  cities. 

All  the  stone  quarries  in  the  Valley  are  the 
property  of  the  government,  which  sells  the 
marble,  jasper,  etc.,  to  the  diiferent  customers, 
realizing  considerable  profit  as  may  be  imagined, 
most  of  the  men  employed  being  offenders  against 
the  law. 

The  manufactories  of  cotton  and  woollen  cloths, 
of  bronze  articles,  furniture,  &c.,  are  also  pro- 
ductive, but  not  so  much  so  as  the  items  we  have 
previously  mentioned,  there  being  no  .monopoly 
in  these  wares ;  but  their  inferiority  is  balanced 
by  the  plantations  of  cotton,  sugar,  rice,  maize, 


REVENUE.  217 

barley,  wheat,  beans  and  yams.  These  are  in 
the  possession  of  the  government  only,  and  are 
of  immense  extent,  spread  over  the  terraces 
oT  the  mountains  and  on  the  plains  of  the  valley 
affording  an  unfailing  source  of  revenue.  The 
products  of  these  plantations  are  stored  in  huge 
magazines,  scattered  over  the  country,  and  sold 
to  the  people  by  the  resident  inspectors,  who 
transmit  their  receipts  semi-annually  to  the 
capital  to  unite  with  the  rest  of  the  revenue, 
which  is  divided  as  a  whole  into  three  per- 
fectly equal  portions,  one  which  is  devoted  to  the 
Inca,  as  his  private  purse,  another  to  the  Sun, 
and  the  third  to  the  payment  of  salaries. 

The  Inca  disburses  his  third  in  the  erection  of 
palaces,  public  buildings,  manufactories,  &c.,  and 
in  the  support  of  his  harem  and  very  large  fam- 
ily, each  individual  having  a  certain  annuity. 
The  nobles  of  the  valley  are  included  in  this,  as 
they  are  all  blood  relations  of  the  reigning  sove- 
raign,  and  are  consequently  interested  in  main- 
taining his  rights  against  any  aggressor. 

The  third  of  the  revenue  appropriated  to  the 
Sun,  is  devoted  to  the  sustenance  of  the  priests, 
convents,  temples  and  consistories,  and  to  the 
erection  of  new  temples;  while  the  salaries  of 
the  innumerable  officers  and  employees  of  the 
government  nearly  swallow  up  the  remain- 


218  POPULATION. 

ing  portion,  the  surplus  being  placed  away  for 
future  wants. 

The  population  of  the  valley  in  1847,  was 
2,815,070,  of  which,  1,664,000  resided  in  flfe 
capital  city,  Acaposinga  having  231,564  inhabit- 
ants; Tezcatl  142,362;  Xaromba  75,623;  and 
the  remaining  701,491  being,,  scattered  through 
the  towns  and  villages  of  the  country.  This 
number  of  persons  residing  in  a  space  of  3600 
>  square  miles,  rather  less  than  more, — gives  an 
average  of  781{J-  to  a  square  mile,  more  than 
double  in  density  the  population  of  Belgium, 
which  is  the  thickest  inhabited  extent  of  country 
in  Europe.  The  average  length  of  life  is  a  few 
weeks  over  53 ;  diseases  are  rare,  and  are  prin- 
cipally fevers  of  not  very  malignant  character. 

Over  200,000  persons  are  employed  in  the 
mines  and  quarries,  and  nearly  as  many  more  in 
the  construction  of  the  public  works,  while  the 
army  enrolls  47,600  men,  2000  of  whom  form  a 
part  of  the  population  of  Geral,  and  4000  more 
reside  in  Acaposinga.  Some  20  or  30,000  per- 
sons are  engaged  in  tending  the  vast  droves  of 
Llamas  and  Vicunas.  The  rest  of  the  popula- 
tion consists  of  artizans,  farmers,  weavers,  and 
merchants  or  shopkeepers. 

The  actual  revenue  of  the  valley  is  almost 
fabulous  in  its  enormous  amount,  bordering  very 


REVENUE.  219 

close  upon  six  hundred  millions  of  our  dollars, 
to  follow  Vala'ion's  estimate,  and  eight  hundred 
millions  according  to  Caonaga's,  which  is  rather 
too  vast  for  belief  even  when  we  remember,  that 
it  comprises  nearly  all  the  specie  in  the  Incalate. 
Having  finished  this  portion  of  my  projected 
task,  I  proceed  to  speak  of  the  accommodations 
for  travelling  and  transportation  throughout  the 
country,  a  subject  of  sufficient  importance  to 
have  a  short  chapter  to  itself. 


220 


CHAPTER  II. 

Modes  of  Communication. 

NOTHING  can  be  better  than  the  splendid  roads, 
or  rather  causeways,  that  traverse  the  Geral- 
Milco  in  every  direction,  connecting  every  city, 
town  and  village  with  the  great  capital  from  which 
it  derives  its  support,  and  rendering  every  facil- 
ity for  travel.  These  vast  causeways  are  com- 
posed entirely  of  rough  hewn  stone,  cut  only  at 
the  edges,  where  they  are  bevelled  and  connected 
so  beautifully  with  the  surrounding,  blocks  that 
the  juncture  is  scarcely  perceptible  : — they  are  at 
least  twenty  feet  wide,  the  surface  being  of  a  sort 
of  gravel,  rolled  smooth  and  kept  in  the  most 
perfect  order.  A  parapet  about  eighteen  inches 
high  extends  along  each  side  of  the  road,  which 
is  carried  on  a  railroad-like  level  over  and  through 
every  apparent  obstacle,  without  any  deviation 
from  a  straight  line,  which,  although  undeniably 
the  very  reverse  of  romantic,  is  at  the  same  time 
very  agreeable  to  the  traveller  and  his  animals, 
shaded  as  he  is  by  a  double  row  of  thick  foliaged 
trees,  planted  on  each  side  of  the  highway,  inter- 


MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION.  221 

sperscd  with  jets  of  water  and  fruit-trees,  whose 
offerings  are  at  the  service  of  every  passer  by. 
Every  two  or  three  miles  along  these  routes,  is  a 
small  stone  dwelling,  with  an  enclosed  space  of 
ground,  tenanted  by  several  men  holding  the  of- 
fice of  chasquis,  or  postmen,  and  at  less  intervals, 
small  clusters  of  houses  form  the  homes  of  the 
numerous  palanquin  bearers,  earning  their  liveli- 
hood by  carrying  travellers  from  one  station  to 
the  next :  eight  of  these  consider  themselves  well 
rewarded  in  receiving  a  single  silver  ochol,  (62J- 
cents.) 

Almost  all  the  travelling  is  performed  in  lit- 
ters, the  richer  nobles  being  carried  by  their  own 
servants,  and  the  less  affluent  of  the  class  by  the 
palanquin  bearers  above  mentioned.  The  wealthy 
citizens  do  the  same,  but  the  poorer  orders  make 
use  of  the  lines  established  by  the  government, 
which  are  wheeled  conveyances  holding  four  per- 
sons, sometimes  six,  drawn  by  a  train  of  ten  or 
twelve  llamas  harnessed  three  abreast,  with  a  dri- 
ver who  walks  at  the  head  of  the  line.  Several 
of  these  maraconas  leave  every  town  of  any  size 
early  in  the  morning,  and  are  very  well  patronized, 
the  fare  being  quite  reasonable,  and  the  rate  of 
progression  but  little  slower  than  that  of  the  pal- 
anquins. Multitudes  of  people  throng  the  capi- 
tal city  on  the  annual  festival  of  the  sun,  to 


222  MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION. 

behold  the  magnificent  ceremonies  of  the  great 
temple,  which  take  place  in  the  middle  of  sum- 
mer, and  which  I  did  not,  in  consequence,  have 
an  opportunity  of  witnessing.  At  that  period  of 
the  year, — writes  Departesa  of  Xaromba,  (another 
of  my  authorities,)  in  his  "  Geralian  Manners," — 
•the  causeways  are  crowded  with  palanquins  and 
maraconas,  hundreds  of  which  daily  enter  the 
capital,  discharging  their  freights,  and  returning 
immediately  for  more  passengers.  During  the 
three  days  which  the  festival  lasts,  the  popula- 
tion of  the  city  is  nearly  doubled,  for  every  fami- 
ly in  the  valley  sends  one  or  more  representa- 
tives to  participate  in  the  annual  celebration. 
These  new  comers  are  lodged  either  with  their 
relations,  or  in  the  immense  coralans  that 
abound  throughout  the  capital.  A  coralan  is 
somewhat  like  an  eastern  khan,  as  every  guest 
provides  his  own  meals,  nothing  being  furnished 
by  the  proprietors  but  the  sleeping  places,  which 
have  mattresses  composed  of  a  peculiar  kind  of 
moss,  similar  to  that  known  to  us  by  the  name  of 
South  Carolina  moss,  admirably  suited  for  such  a 
purpose. 

The  transportation  of  the  products  of  the  mines 
and  quarries,  is  effected  by  the  means  of  a  square 
cart,  having  four  very  large  wheels,  composed  of 
the  wood  of  the  cecropia  peltata,  or  trumpet  tree, 


MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION.  223 

tired  with  bronze.  These  conveyances,  called 
lalamaSj  are  of  great  capacity  and  strength,  and 
are  drawn  by  a  long  train  of  llamas,  who  per- 
form the  journey  from  the  mines  of  the  Edar- 
allaquatepec  to  Geral, — a  distance  of  fifty-one 
miles, — in  thirteen  hours,  which  is  quite  quick  for 
such  seemingly  weak  animals,  the  loads  frequent- 
ly weighing  two  or  three  hundred  weight.  Lala- 
mas  are  used  also  to  convey  the  baggage  of 
weathy  travellers,  but  principally  for  the  pur- 
poses above  mentioned,  though  for  the  transpor- 
tation of  large  bronze  manufactures,  and  other 
bulky  commodities,  they  are  much  employed. 

Cotton,  woollen  and  similar  merchandise,  the 
products  of  the  woods  and  fields,  is  generally 
carried  across  the  country  packed  carefully  on 
the  backs  of  llamas,  who  can  bear  a  burden  of 
from  200  to  250  pounds,  without  inconvenience. 
Long  trains  of  these  animals,  heavily  laden,  are 
constantly  to  be  met  on  the  highways,  attended 
by  their  numerous  drivers,  and  followed,  in  most 
cases,  by  a  superintendent  in  his  litter. 

There  are  numerous  descriptions  of  palan- 
quins; loca-dals,  used  for  travelling;  ena-dals, 
employed  in  passing  through  the  streets ;  fomer- 
dals,  in  shopping  or  visiting ;  and  the  posei-dals, 
which  are  devoted  to  the  occupations  of  the 
ladies.  These  four  kinds  are  double  or  single, 


224  MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION. 

and  a  very  few  of  the  first  mentioned  are  made 
to  accommodate  four  persons,  in  which  case,  how- 
ever, they  cannot  be  said  to  come  under  the  head 
of  litters,  as  they  are  suspended  between  eight 
wheels,  and  drawn  by  llamas. 

The  single  loca-dal  is  about  eight  feet  long, 
four  wide,  and  four  high,  lined  with  thick 
cushions,  and  having  a  mattress  on  the  floor,  upon 
which  the  traveller  reclines  at  his  ease,  and  reads, 
or  enjoys  the  prospect  from  the  latticed  openings 
which  are  placed  all  along  the  upper  half  of  the 
sides.  These  windows  are  provided  with  curtains, 
to  regulate  the  light  at  the  option  of  the  occu- 
pant. A  little  table  can  be  formed  by  raising  a 
flap  pendant  against  one  of  the  sides,  and  a  set 
of  small  drawers  are  placed  at  the  foot  of  the  pal- 
anquin, with  a  closet  over  them,  in  which  edibles 
are  placed.  The  double  loca-dal  is  similar  to  the 
single,  save  that  it  is  nearly  six  Teet  wide ;  and 
is  borne  by  eight  men  instead  of  four. 

The  ena-dal  is  only  four  feet  long,  three  wide, 
and  five  high,  in  short,  an  oblong  box  placed  on 
its  smaller  end,  and  furnished  with  a  comfortable 
seat ;  the  sides  are  usually  solid  only  to  the  height 
of  two  feet,  the  rest  being  open  to  the  air,  with  a 
roof  supported  by  four  slender  columns  placed  at 
the  corners.  Sometimes  it  is  latticed  and  cur- 
tained, but  not  often.  It  is  carried  by  four  ser- 


MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION.  225 

x 

vants, — when  double  by  eight, — and  admittance 
is  afforded  by  a  door  on  each  side. 

The  fomer-dal  strongly  resembles  the  last,  dif- 
fering only  in  the  method  of  bearing :  the  first 
has  the  handles  placed  underneath,  and  is  conse- 
quently mounted  high  in  air,  on  the  shoulders  of 
its  bearers,  while  the  fomer-dal,  like  the  loca-dal, 
has  its  handles  placed  near  the  top,  and  is  there- 
fore elevated  but  a  few  inches  above  the  ground. 
It  has  the  back  and  front  solid  to  the  roof,  with  the 
exception  of  two  small  circular  openings,  through 
which  the  occupant  sees  where  he  wishes  to  go, 
and  transmits  his  orders  to  the  carriers.  The 
sides  are  open,  but  it  is  considered  very  inele- 
gant to  pass  your  head  out  of  these,  and,  in  fact, 
I  never  saw  any  one  commit  such  an  infraction 
of  decorum. 

These  three  descriptions  of  palanquin  are 
confined  solely  to  the  use  of  males,  if  we 
except  the  double  locadal,  in  which  ladies 
also  travel  when  they  venture  to  leave  the  city 
of  their  residence,  which  is  a  rare  occurrence : 
but  they  have  a  peculiar  kind  of  litter  de- 
voted to  their  especial  use,  called  the  Poseidal, 
which  closes  the  list.  It  is  six  feet  in  length,  four 
wide  and  high,  closed  at  both  ends  to  the  roof, 
the  sides  being  composed  of  delicate  lattice  work 
lined  with  gauze,  and  impenetrable  to  the  view 


226  MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION. 

from  the  outside,  while  from  the  interior  every 
thing  can  be  seen  with  perfect  distinctness. 
Within,  these  conveyances  are  padded  and  pro- 
vided with  numerous  soft  square  cushions  upon 
which  recline  the  fair  occupants, — fo**  these  litters 
always  carry  two, — while  on  the  exterior  they  are 
gilded  and  painted  according  to  the  taste  of  the 
owner.  They  are  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four 
attendants,  by  as  many  long  handles, — extending 
from  the  upper  corners  of  the  palanquin, — which 
are  very  often  carved  like  snakes,  and  richly 
ornamented. 

The  Inca  always  uses  (except  on  his  annual 
tours  through  the  Valley)  a  litter  of  peculiar  form 
being  a  richly  gilt  frame  something  resembling  a 
chair,  cushioned  and  shaded  by  a  magnificent 
canopy  of  variously  coloured  feathers,  inter- 
mingled with  long  jewelled  pendants,  supported 
by  four  long  poles,  so  crossed  as  to  form  a  square 
with  eight  projecting  handles.  On  the  square  is 
placed  the  chair  and  canopy,  and  each  of  the 
handles  is  held  by  two  nobles  of  the  highest  rank. 
An  ornamented  piece  of  wood,  something  like  a 
dash  board  on  a  small  scale,  is  placed  before  the 
chair,  for  the  Inca  to  rest  his  feet  against,  and 
when  moving  along  the  streets,  the  uppermost 
peak  of  the  canopy  is,  at  least,  fifteen  feet  from 
the  ground. 


MODES  OP  COMMUNICATION.  227 

So  much  for  land  travelling  and  means  of  com- 
munication, and  there  is  but  little  to  be  said  of 
river  craft,  as  the  streams  are  mostly  too  small 
for  navigation,  the  Naloma,  and  one  of  its  tribu- 
taries,— before  mentioned  as  flowing  from  the 
mines  of  Pocotatl, — being  the  only  water  courses 
on  which  boats  are  to  be  found.  The  products  of 
these  mines  are  brought  to  Geral  in  large  canoas, 
with  from  twenty  to  thirty  oars,  and  military 
stores  are  also  transported  to  and  from  Acaposinga 
by  water,  and  some  merchandize  is  occasionally 
to  be  met  ascending  and  descending  the  stream, 
between  that  city  and  the  capital,  but  not  fur- 
ther east,  as  the  rapids  commence  a  few  miles 
below. 

The  nobles  and  rich  inhabitants  of  Geral  pos- 
sess pleasure  canoas  in  which  they  take  a  view  or 
sail  on  the  canal  that  passes  through  part  of  the 
capital.  This  canal  connects  the  lake  of  Naloma 
with  the  lakes  on  the  upper  plateaus  of  the  Sierra 
Paricis,  and  is  a  natural  formation,  artificialized 
by  the  natives  having  lined  its  banks  with  polished 
stone  from  the  former  body  of  water  to  the  point 
where  the  stream  enters  the  Inca's  park,  through 
which  it  flows  in  its  untortured  way.  In  its  pas- 
sage through  the  city  it  is  crossed  by  innumerable 
draw  bridges  of  simple,  though  strong  construc- 
tion, which  I  have  described  in  the  first  part  of 


228  MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION. 

this  book,  while  at  its  junction  with  the  Lake  of 
Naloma  there  is  a  splendid  triumphal  arch  I  not, 
however,  a  perfect  curve,  but  consisting  of  two 
arcs  united  by  a  flat  slab,  while  the  outer  coating 
is  in  steps.*  It  was  built  two  hundred  years  ago, 
in  commemoration  of  the  completion  of  the 
canal  by  the  Inca,  Huayna  Evora,  and  is  in  ex- 
cellent preservation,  being  composed  of  huge 
blocks  of  stone.  It  is  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  from  the  lake,  the  canal  being  entirely 
covered  over,  for  this  distance,  by  the  continuous 
bridge  that  unites  the  western  and  eastern  por- 
tions of  the  wide  quay  which  extends  all  around 
the  lake. 

The  state  barges  of  the  Inca  and  his  suite,  I 
have  also  previously  attempted  to  portray,  and 
need,  therefore,  speak  only  of  the  small  canoas 
in  which  a  party  of  two  or  three,  takes  an  even- 
ing's amusement  on  the  bosom  of  the  grand  canal. 
They  are  narrow  boats,  some  twenty  feet  in  length, 
guided  by  a  single  boatman,  and  having  a  little 
cabin,  tastefully  ornamented,  placed  amidships, 
much  resembling  in  their  general  form,  the  Vene- 
tian Gondola,  excepting  in  the  brilliantly  coloured 


*  An  arch  of  this  description  still  exists  nearly  perfect  at 
Labrk,  in  Yucatan.  The  one  above  mentioned  is  similar  in 
every  respect,  except  being  much  more  lofty. 


WATER   CRAFT.  229 

curtains  that  fall  into  the  water  from  the  latticed 
openings  that  serve  to  light  the  interior  of  a  cabin, 
fitted  up  with  barbaric  magnificence.  Many  a 
time,  and  oft,  have  Grey  and  I,  with  one  of  our 
princely  friends,  glided  over  the  calm  surface  of 
the  lake  in  one  of  these  charming  skiffs,  to  some  of 
the  many  floating  islands  (Chinampas,)  thence  to 
take  a  moonlight  view  of  the  gorgeous  City  of  the 
Inca ;  or  darted  through  the  tunnel  to  the  canal, 
emerging  from  the  silence  of  the  former  into  the 
deafening  laughter  and  chatter  of  the  crowds  that 
filled  the  canoas,  and  thronged  the  stone  banks  of 
the  latter. 


12 


230 


CHAPTER  III. 

Buildings: — Materials,  Style,  Solidity,  &c. 

No  sensible  person  can  possibly  suppose,  even 
for  an  instant,  that,  in  the  revolution  of  three 
centuries  and  more,  no  improvement  was  made  by 
the  Geralians  upon  the  modes  of  constructing  edi- 
fices, employed  by  their  ancestors, — the  Peruvians 
and  Mexicans, — for  in  the  history  of  all  nations, 
we  find  the  founders  residing  in  huts  of  branches 
plucked  from"  the  surrounding  trees,  and  rudely 
piled  together  to  form  a  shelter  from  the  changes 
of  the  weather.  Look  to  the  early  traditions  of 
the  most  refined  of  ancient  nations: — while  its 
true  origin  is  undiscernible  through  the  misty 
darkness  of  long  passed  years,  we  find  its  inhabit- 
ants, on  the  arrival  of  Inachus,  from  Egypt, — 
living  in  caves,  in  the  lowest  depths  of  barbarism. 
To  what  eminence  they  attained  in  architectural 
science  is  well  known  to  every  one.  The  Peru- 
vians and  Mexicans,  in  all  probability  likewise 
commenced  by  living  in  artificial  caves,  thence  to 
improve  in  skill,  until  they  erected  the  immense 
palaces  and  temples,  whose  remains  are  strewn 


BUILDINGS.  231 

over  modern  Peru  and  Central  America,  rivalling 
in  their  dimensions  and  grandness  of  conception, 
the  proudest  monuments  of  modern  art.  To  what 
greater  dexterity  they  would  have  arrived  in  their 
native  land  is  unknown,  for  the  successful  inva- 
sions of  the  Spanish  pirates,  effectually  checked 
all  further  advancement  on  the  part  of  the  sub- 
dued natives,  reducing  them  to  a  state  of  absolute 
servility. 

The  Geralians  had,  therefore,  every  advantage 
for  rapid  improvement,  starting  into  a  distinct 
existence  from  a  chance  union  of  two  nations, 
renowned  for  their  advanced  civilization,  at 
the  turning  point  of  their  greatness ;  carrying 
with  them  all  the  arts  and  sciences,  which  were 
the  offspring  of  centuries  of  previous  experience, 
and  an  enterprising  spirit  of  their  own,  that 
prompted  them  to  make  a  last  stand  for  freedom 
in  the  wilderness  of  Brazil. 

Instead,  therefore,  of  the  new  nation's  first 
house  being  a  rude  construction  of  leaves,  we 
find  the  founders  building  a  magnificent  palace 
of  wrought  stone,  (in  the  intermingled  taste 
of  Mexico  and  Peru,)  for  the  residence  of  their 
Inca,  with  huge  exterior  flights  of  steps  guarded 
by  the  symbolic  serpents  of  the  northern  coun- 
try, and  decorated  with  the  golden  disks  that 
manifested  the  religion  of  the  warmer  clime  ;  in 


232  BUILDINGS. 

short  the  very  edifice  of  which  a  description  has 
already  been  given, — in  which  I,  the  reader's 
humble  servant,  was  lodged  by  order  of  the 
Inca. 

The  duty  which  devolves  upon  me,  is  to  show 
the  present  state  of  the  architecture  of  the  val- 
ley, and  to  do  so  I  will  commence  by  treating  of 
the  materials  principally  employed,  which  are 
five  in  number,  white  and  black  marble,  brown 
stone,  granite,  and  a  stone  of  a  pale  buff  colour, 
much  used  and  capable  of  receiving  a  high  pol- 
ish, while  it  is  susceptible  of  the  finest  carving. 
In  interior  finishing,  jasper,  agate,  pictorial  mar- 
ble,— which  is  scarce  and  very  highly  prized, — 
a  species  of  verde  antico,  and  a  light  red 
coloured  marble  with  which  walls  are  sometimes 
faced. 

Entire  rooms  are  sometimes  lined  with  sheets 
of  amber,  or  lapis  lazuli,  the  former  being  occa- 
sionally made  into  hollow  columns,  the  plates 
being  joined  by  rings  of  silver,  and  in  these  are 
placed  lights,  producing  a  very  singular  appear- 
ance. I  remember  a  store  in  the  street  of  the 
Ocelot  that  had  a  portico  supported  by  four  pil- 
lars of  this  description,  which  I  used  frequently 
to  admire  during  my  short  residence  in  that  tho- 
roughfare. 
In  both  public  and  private  buildings  of  any 


BUILDINGS.  233 

pretension,  a  great  quantity  of  carving  is  to  be 
found,  very  beautifully  executed,  of  scrolls, 
birds,  and  men  in  high  relief.  The  columns  are 
of  a  vase-like  form,  as  I  have  many  times  men- 
tioned in  the  foregoing  journal,  with  capitals 
much  resembling  those  found  in  the  old  temples 
of  Hindoostan,  being  in  the  form  of  circular 
cushions,  apparently  crushed  nearly  flat  by  the 
weight  of  the  superincumbent  mass  of  transverse 
beams.  The  contour  of  the  shaft, — if  I  may  so 
term  it, — is  more  elegant,  slight  and  graceful 
than  those  of  the  East  Indies,  but  a  very  great 
similarity  can  be  traced  between  them. 

What  we  designate  as  the  Gothic  arch  is 
known,  and  employed  much  more  extensively 
than  the  Norman  or  semi-circular,  which  I  saw 
used  merely  on  the  banks  of  the  canal  in  Geral, 
where  a  few  houses,  abutting  upon  the  water,  have 
them  in  their  lower  stories  over  the  foot  of  a 
flight  of  steps, — leading  to  the  first  floor, — 
used  by  the  occupants  in  descending  to  their  ca- 
noas:  even  in  such  cases,  a  semi-oval  arch  is 
more  common. 

This  is  a  manifest  improvement  upon  the  an- 
cient architecture  of  America,  as  the  only  ap- 
proach to  an  arch  to  be  found  among  the  numerous 
remains  as  yet  explored,  is  at  Labna — mentioned 
by  Stephens  in  his  *  Yucatan,' — where  there  is  a 


234  BUILDINGS. 

gateway  formed  of  two  slight  arcs  whose  point 
of  intersection  is  cut  off  by  a  horizontal  slab, — 
a  description  tallying  exactly  with  that  given  in 
the  last  chapter  of  the  Triumphal  Arch  of  the 
Inca  Huayna  Evora  at  Geral.  In  one  of  the 
corridors  in  the  palace  Palenque  (Central  Ameri- 
.ca)  there  are  small  openings  to  admit  light,  in  the 
form  of  a  semicircular  cusped  arch,  but  these 
are  hewn  out  of  a  single  block,  not  formed  of 
numerous  stones  :  windows  similar  to  this  I  have 
met  with  often  in  different  parts  of  the  valley. 

In  the  erection  of  all  buildings  the  first  thing 
done  is  to  dig  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  feet, 
the  level  surface  thus  produced  being  pounded 
and  rolled  as  firmly  as  possible,  after  which  the 
space  is  refilled  with  solidly  cemented  masonry. 
On  this  terrace,  which  in  some  cases  is  carried 
as  much  as  four  or  five  feet  above  the  street,  the 
structure  is  gradually  raised  to  the  desired  eleva- 
tion, seldom  more  than  two  stories  unless  it  be 
a  storehouse  or  large  mercantile  wareroom. 
The  walls  are  by  law  prohibited  from  being  thin- 
ner than  fifteen  inches  for  private  houses  of  one 
story,  than  twenty-one  if  more,  and  those  of  the 
magazines  are  never  less  than  thirty. 

The  residences  of  the  wealthy  citizens  of 
Geral, — for  the  nobles  live  in  perfect  palaces,  so 
nearly 'resembling  the  previously  given  descrip- 


BUILDINGS.  235 

tion,  that  I  omit  mentioning  them  in  this  place, 
— are  generally  surrounded  by  a  garden,  front- 
ing some  principal  street,  from  which  a  wide  and 
smoothly  rolled  gravel  path  leads  to  the  Z'ilat- 
hal,  or  portico  of  the  house,  which  is  generally 
supported  by  columns,  and  which, — in  two  story 
buildings, — does  not   protrude  from   the  fagade, 
but  is  enclosed  by  the  surrounding  apartments, 
and  is  very  much  like  a  room  with  one  side  re- 
moved,   as  it  is   furnished  with   ottomans  and 
tables,  while  from  the  centre  of  the  ceiling  hangs 
the  great    Uthirb-ilathal,  or  Lamp  of  Welcome, 
a  large  and  not  inelegant  article  composed  of  del- 
icate lattice  work  in  gold,  or  some  less  valuable 
metal,  surrounded  with  long  tassels  pendent  from 
a  projecting  frame  that  forms  as  it  were  the  cor- 
nice of  the  chandelier.    A  door  in  the  centre  of 
the  Z'ilathal  admits  the  visitor  into  a  long  hall  on 
one  side  of  which  is  the  Egarathon,  or  parlour, 
where  the  host  receives,  and  on  the  other  is  the 
Ovvaidon  or  eating  room.     The  first  is  generally 
square,  and  has  at  one  end  a  raised  dais  of  two 
steps  called  the  Tarim-ilatJial  (Place  of  Welcome,) 
on  which  the  master  of  the  house  sits,  and  whence 
he  converses  with  his  visitor,  to  receive  whom,  he 
rises.     It  is  a  great  favour  if  he  descend  the  tW3 
steps,  and  still  higher  honoured  is  the  guest  who  is 
met  half  way,  for  a  seat  on  the  Tarim-ilathal  is  sure 


236  BUILDINGS. 

to  be  offered  for  his  acceptance.  The  whole 
room  is  often  greatly  decorated ;  either  the  walls 
are  richly  carved,  covered  with  valuable  marble, 
or  else  hung  with  tapestry  of  the  utmost  magnif- 
icence. Communicating  with  the  Ega^ati  on  is 
the  private  room  of  the  owner,  where  he  in- 
structs his  younger  children,  makes  up  his  ac- 
counts, has  interviews  with  his  master  of  ceremo- 
nies, and  receives  his  most  intimate  friends. 
Opening  into  this  is  his  Uvoridua  or  sleeping 
apartment,  and  a  passage  that  leads  to  the 
second  floor,  if  there  is  one,  otherwise  the  rooms 
about  to  be  mentioned  extend  further  back  on  the 
same  level  with  those  already  described.  The 
Avvaroga  or  apartments  of  the  women,  consist 
of  chambers,  a  nursery  for  the  children,  and  a 
sitting  room  where  the  ladies  either  spin,  embroi- 
der, read,  or  in  other  ways  employ  themselves. 
Here  also  are  found  large  presses  where  are  kept 
the  dresses  of  the  family,  and  chests  in  which 
are  secured  the  table  linen  and  plate,  which  after 
every  meal  are  brought  to  the  mistress  of 
the  house.  No  male  may  enter  the  Avvaroga 
save  the  master  of  the  house,  such  of  his  friends 
as  he  wishes  to  present  to  his  family,  and  the  head 

servant. 

While  all  strangers  are  thus  excluded  from  the 
private  parts  of  the  mansion,  they  are  freely  ad- 


BUILDINGS.  237 

mitted  into  the  rooms  on  the  other  sitfe  of  the 
entrance  hall,  -which  are  first  the  Uvvithon,  or 
pantry ;  next  to  which,  and  on  a  line  with  it,  is 
the  Ovvaidon,  or  eating-room,  behind  which  is 
the  Itanalpa,  or  kitchen.  The  Ovvaidon  is  a 
large  saloon,  corresponding  in  size  and  position 
to  the  Egarathon,  and  fitted  up  with  equal  splen- 
dor. The  Uvvithon  is  also  a  large  room  in  which 
the  viands,  intended  for  the  table,  are  placed  pre- 
vious to  being  served.  The  sleeping  apartments 
of  the  servants  are  either  above  or  behind  these 
two  rooms,  for  the  kitchen  is  separated  from  the 
house  by  an  opening  of  four  or  five  feet,  though 
under  the  same  roof. 

The  apartments  on  the  first  floor  of  a  two  story 
house  are  lit  by  openings  in  the  side  walls,  near 
the  ceiling,  composed  of  elaborate  carving  in 
open  work ;  or  else,  as  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
Valley,  light  is  afforded  by  oblong  or  oval  win- 
dows, which  are  formed  of  very  thin  slabs  of  white 
jasper,  which  material  •  varies  much  from  the 
species  of  mineral  to  which  it  properly  appertains, 
in  being  transparent,  almost  as  much  so  as  mica. 
On  the  second  floor,  all  the  rooms  are^  lit  by  sky- 
lights, over  which,  at  noon  and  at  night,  awnings 
are  drawn,  while  in  winter,  or  more  properly 
speaking,  during  the  rainy  season,  roofs  are  built, 
12* 


238  BUILDINGS. 

raised  about  two  feet  above  the  opening,  so  as  to 
admit  a  little  daylight  under  the  eaves,  while 
more  finds  its  way  though  plates  of  white  jasper 
set  into  the  temporary  roof. 

The  floors  are  usually  composed  either  of 
tesselated  marbles,  or  of  marqueterie,  composed  of 
woods  stained  in  various  colours  and  arranged  in 
some  fanciful  or  intricate  pattern. 

The  roofs  of  all  buildings  are  perfectly  flat, 
with  parapets  of  solid  masonry,  so  that  were  it 
not  for  sundry  large  bronze  pipes,  in  the  form  of 
serpents,  that  ornament  the  corners  of  all  houses, 
these  roofs  would,  during  the  rainy  season,  be 
converted  into  perfect  lakes. 

The  monstrous  stone  snakes  that  formed  the 
balusters  of  the  flights  of  steps  in  front  of  '  our 
palace,  were  hollow,  and  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  rain  pipes  on  a  large  scale.  How  queer 
they  must  look  with  the  cascades  of  water  gush- 
ing from  their  capacious  mouths* 

Gutters  are  not  used,  but  subterranean  pipes 
are  laid  from  each  house  to  the  nearest  street, 
emptying  into  an  enormous  stone  culvert,  extend- 
ing down  Uie  centre  of  it  to  the  lake  of  Naloma. 
The  top  of  this  culvert  is  below  the  level  of  the 
thoroughfare,  and  I  should  never  have  discovered 
how  the  system  of  drainage  was  carried  on,  had 


BUILDINGS.  239 

I  not  one  day,  in  my  rambles  with  Grey,  stumbled 
upon  a  party  of  workmen  repairing  a  breach, 
caused  by  the  fall  of  a  large  warehouse  in  the 
Street  of  the  Factories. 


240 


CHAPTER  IV. 

D  mestic  Manners  and  Customs. 

IN  this  chapter  I  shall  once  more  enter  the  pene- 
tralia— the  Avvaroga, — of  Geralian  life,  and  strive 
to  place  before  the  reader  an  accurate  picture  of  the 
way  in  which  the  natives  employ  themselves  i  en 
famille/  and  their  household  arrangements  in 
general. 

In  the  families  of  the  wealthy  classes  and  the 
nobility,  the  dignity  of  the  house  cannot  be  prop- 
erly maintained  with  less  than  fifty  domestic  ser- 
vants, exclusive  of  the  palanquin  bearers,  who 
never  number  less  than  sixteen,  and  the  body  ser- 
vants who  form  the  escort  of  the  master  of  the 
house  when  travelling  about  the  Valley  in  state. 
Of  these  fifty,  thirty  are  usually  females,  and  the 
remainder  men  and  boys,  all  of  whom  are  under 
the  supervision  of  the  Milla-il-atJilj  or  Master  of 
Welcome,  a  head  servant  corresponding  to  the 
butler  of  large  English  establishments.  He  en- 
gages the  servants,  orders  all  entertainments, 
punishes  ^  misconduct,  and  is  a  medium  between 


DOMESTIC   MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.         241 

his  master  and  his  inferiors  in  everything  except 
the  actual  payment  of  wages. 

The  female  servants  are  the  Avvar-il-Avvaroga, 
similar  to  ladies'  maids  and  semstresses,  who  are 
always  in  the  apartments  of  their  mistresses,  either 
working  with  them  or  attending  their  toilette. 
Second,   the   Avvar-il-Itanalpa,  who  are  under- 
cooks  and  scullions  beneath  the  control  of   the 
Malla-il-Itanalpa,   or  chief  cook,  who  also  holds 
her  reign  over  the  Avvar-il-Uvvithon  (pantry  girls) 
and  even  over  the  Ivvar-il-Ovvaidon  (male  waiters) 
who  form  one  class  of  the  men  servants ;  a  second 
class  is  called  Ivvar-il-Egarathon  (parlour  servants) 
who  introduce  visitors.     A  third  is  termed  the 
Ivvar-il-Evoridua,  valets  of  their  master.     Then 
there  is  the  Milla-il-Zilathal,  or  master  of  th  e  por- 
tico, a  sort  of  porter ;  and  these  are  found, — except 
the  Ivvar-il-milla  (body  servants)  and  Ivvar-il-dalr 
(palanquin  bearers), — in  the  houses  of  the  rich, 
their  number  varying  according  to  the  degrees  of 
state  affected  by  their  masters.     Some  are  extra- 
vagant   enough    to   retain  a  band    of    dancing 
women,  a  number  of  musicians,  and    even  have 
Avvar-il-Ovvaidon,  or  girls  to  wait  on  table  as 
well  as  men,  the  former  being  much  more  expen- 
sive and  scarce. 

The  day  of  the  nobles  not  attending  Inca's  court 
— for  then  they  live  in  the  royal  palace,  apart 


242        DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

from  their  families, — commences  about  six  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  when  they  are  awakened  by  their 
principal  body  servant.  A  bath  is  then  taken  at 
the  fountain,  after  which  a  slight  breakfast  is 
generally  partaken  of,  in  private.  The  nobleman 
if  he  has  a  family,  then  visits  the  Avvaroga,  and 
stays  there  a  short  time,  after  which  he  perhaps 
goes  to  his  study,  if  I  may  so  call  it,  and  instructs 
his  sons  in  such  things  as  it  is  necessary  for  them 
to  learn  previous  to  entering  the  academy  of  Incas. 
A  visitor  may  come,  or  he  himself  may  now  order 
his  fomer-dal  and  proceed  to  see  his  friends,  re- 
turning to  dine  with  his  family  near  dark.  It 
must  not  be  supposed  that  he  fasts  eleven  hours, 
for  such  is  not  the  case,  as  a  lunch  is  always  served 
at  noon,  consisting  of  sweetmeats  and  pleasant 
drinks,  of  which, — if  he  is  at  home, — he  partakes 
with  his  family  and  such  visitors  as  may  chance 
to  be  in  the  house  at  the  time. 

The  dinner  is  the  leading  affair  of  the  day,  and 
consumes  over  an  hour,  to  do  justice  to  its  de- 
mands ;  but  as  1  have  previously  given  a  descrip- 
tion of  a  private  dinner,  sufficiently  explicit  in  its 
details,  this  interesting  subject  can  be  passed  over 
here.  After  it  is  despatched,  the  evening  is 
passed  either  at  home,  at  a  friend's  house,  or  per- 
haps at  some  book  store,  which  are  then  always 
thronged  with  readers.  All  shopping  by  gentle- 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND   CUSTOMS.         243 

men  is  done  in  this  portion  of  the  twenty-four 
hours,  by  which,  of  course,  we  do  not  mean  such 
buying  and  selling,  as  occupies  the  morning  in 
the  Tianguez,  and  great  business  streets. 

In  the  dry  season,  the  numerous  open  squares 
of  the  Cities,  planted  with  stately  trees,  and 
watered  by  huge  fountains,  are  illuminated  during 
the  evening,  and  are  crowded  by  the  lower  classes, 
who  have  very  good  refreshments  served  at  a  low 
cost.  During  the  rains,  most  of  these  persons 
remain  at  home  at  night ;  but  the  rich  and  the 
nobility,  unite  in  parties  of  ten  or  twelve,  meet- 
ing at  each  other's  houses  on  certain  evenings/ 
when  they  discourse  upon  literary  and  various 
matters,  read,  or  in  some  other  simple  way  amuse 
themselves. 

We  now  turn  to  the  duties  and  employments 
of  the  female  portion  of  a  wealthy  Geralian 
family. 

Besides  the  actual  wife  of  a  man,  married  by 
ceremony  in  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  or  by  a 
magistrate,  there  are  several  Odalisques  (Ulva- 
mathalr)  in  every  family  of  wealth,  numbering 
according  to  the  wish  and  ability  of  the  master 
from  two  to  a  hundred,  a  limit  being  there  placed 
by  the  Inca,  who  alone  is  permitted  to  have  more. 
There  are  laws  which  forbid  the  Ulvamathalr 
living  with  their  master,  unless  they  receive  from 


244          DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

him  a  yearly  allowance  of  a  hundred  gold  ochols, 
in  failure  of  receiving  which,  they  can  summon  a 
magistrate  and  compel  him  to  pay  the  money. 
They  live  in  the  same  apartments  as  the  mistress 
of  the  house,  in  friendship,  work  with  her,  visit, 
shop  or  travel  in  her  litters,  and  in  fact,  seem 
like  sisters. 

The  Ulvamathalr  are  not  slaves,  as  they  can 
leave  their  master's  house,  by  giving  him  sufficient 
notice;  but  if  they  attempt  to  quit  it  without 
warning,  they  are  arrested  and  bound  to  remain 
with  him  until  his  death,  a  second  effort  at  eva- 
sion being  punishable  at  the  master's  will.  These 
bond  women  are  called  Inlathalr,  and  might 
almost  be  considered  slaves,  as  the  power  of  life 
and  death  is  vested  in  their  master's  hands. 

The  children  of  the  Ulvamathalr  and  Inlathalr 
-  are  educated  with  those  of  the  mistress  of  the 
house,  and  treated  similarly  in  every  way ;  the 
same  dower  is  given  on  their  marriage,  the  same 
honours  at  their  death.  The  Inlathalr  are  not 
admitted  to  the  society  of  the  Ulvamathalr,  ex- 
cept by  the  express  permission  of  their  master, 
which  is  frequently  given,  so  that  no  distinction 
between  the  two  is  recognized,  saving  in  the 
matter  of  salary,  the  former  receiving  but  half  as 
much  (fifty  gold  ochols)  as  their  more  honoured 
companions. 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.          245 

The  Geralian  race  is  remarkably  noble  look- 
ing, majestic  in  deportment,  of  delicate  features 
and  fine  form;  the  complexion  is  generally  a 
clear  and  not  very  dark  olive,  sometimes  so  close- 
ly approaching  what  we  would  call  merely  a  dark 
skin,  that  one  would  almost  suppose  there  was 
white  blood  coursing  beneath  it.  The  colour  is 
generally  rich,  if  not  high;  the  eyes  and  hair  are 
black,  or  very  dark  brown,  the  former  being 
large,  lustrous,  and  very  expressive;  the  teeth 
are  invariably  like  pearls,  and  the  chin  and  mouth 
somewhat  on  the  Greek  order  of  beauty.  The 
male  portion  are  seldom  under  five  feet  eight 
inches,  and  admirably  proportioned,  while  the 
females  are  of  good  height. 

We  will  now  speak  of  the  occupations  of  the 
mistress  of  a  wealthy  citizen's  household  during 
the  day. 

The  first  rays  of  the  rising  sun  pierce  through 
the  elaborate  open  tracery  of  stone  which  forms 
the  cornice  of  her  chamber,  revelling  among  the 
deep  carvings  of  the  coved  ceiling,  and  playing 
over  the  gold  embroidered  folds  of  the  voluminous 
hangings,  a  part  of  which  being  swept  aside,  the 
malla-il-avaroga  enters  alone,  and  approaching 
the  canopied  couch  of  her  mistress,  awakens 
her  and  receives  her  orders.  The  Ulvamathalr 
then  enter  to  pay  their  morning  respects,  they 


246          DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

having  just  arisen  in  the  adjoining  rooms.  The 
mistress  of  the  house  then  rises,  and  attended  by 
the  Ulvamathalr  and  the  Avvar-il-Avvaroga,  pro- 
ceeds to  bathe  at  the  fountain  in  the  centre  of  her 
apartment;  or  if  the  morning  is  oppressively 
warm,  they  all  go  into  the  surrounding  gardens, 
and  make  use  of  one  of  the  numerous  artificial 
lakes  that  are  always  constructed  in  them,  en- 
closed by  impervious  shrubbery  and  foliage. 
After  revelling  in  the  cool  water  for  some  time, 
they  return  to  their  respective  apartments  to -have 
their  toilettes  completed,  and  about  six  o'clock 
reunite  in  the  Ovvaidon-Avvaroga,  or  women's 
eating  room,  where  they  partake  of  the  first  meal 
of  the  day.  The  utensils  of  gold  and  silver  then 
used  are  cleansed  and  restored  to  the  vast  plate 
chests  under  the  superintendence  of  the  mistress 
of  the  house  and  the  Malla-il-Avvaroga. 

This  done  the  Ulvamathalr  accompany  their 
mistress  to  the  sewing  room, — if  I  may  so  term 
it, — where  the  children  of  the  family  join  them. 
The  females  resume  their  various  occupations  of 
spinning,  embroidering,  making  their  dresses, 
painting, — in  which  art  some  are  extremely  cle- 
ver,— and  writing.  While  thus  engaged  they 
receive  the  visit  of  the  master  of  the  house,  and 
on  his  departure  with  his  sons,  some  of  the  ladies 
give  instructions  on  various  subjects  to  the  girls 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.          247 

of  the  family,  which  engrosses  the  entire  morn- 
ing, until  lunch  is  served  at  noon.  During  this 
time  many  of  the  Ulvamathalr  have  doubtless 
been  out  in  their  palanquins,  shopping  or  visiting, 
but  they  are  usually  home  at  lunch,  subsequent 
to  which  they  take  a  siesta,  followed  by  a  resump- 
tion of  their  previous  employments.  About  four 
o'clock,  succeeds  a  bath,  followed  by  a  palanquin 
ride  in  the  surrounding  country,  or  on  the  moun- 
tain terraces,  where  they  sometimes  walk, — a 
visit  to  the  Inca's  wife,  a  saunter  in  the  Street  of 
the  Ocelot,  or  a  lounge  about  the  garden  until 
dusk,  when  the  entire  family  dine  together  in  the 
great  Ovvaidon.  In  the  dry  season  the  evening 
is  frequently  spent  by  the  side  of  the  numerous 
baths  in  the  gardens,  or  in  hamacas  swung 
between  the  boughs  of  illuminated  trees.  Some- 
times the  ladies  accompany  the  master  of  the 
house  in  his  visits  to  his  friends,  or  perhaps  the 
whole  household  of  a  neighbour  will  come  to  pass 
the  evening,  frolicking  in  the  open  moonlit  air. 
D'  ring  the  wet  season,  large  companies  of  ladies 
only,  are  held  in  the  Avvaroga,  when  they  laugh, 
talk,  play  with  the  children,  eat,  drink,  and  are 
perhaps  entertained  with  music,  singing,  dancing, 
or  some  other  amusement,  the  most  esteemed 
being  the  recitation  of  poems  commemorative  of 
the  exploits  of  former  heroic  Incas,  their  bravery 


248          DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

in  battle,  or  the  romantic  history  of  their 
amours. 

It  now  remains  to  note  the  ceremonies  observed 
in  the  cases  of  marriage,  birth  and  death,  with 
which  this  chapter  will  close. 

Love  has  but  little  to  do  with  Geralian  mar- 
riage : — the  father  of  the  youth  casts  his  looks 
abroad  among  his  friends'  daughters,  and  having 
found  one  whose  alliance  seems  advantageous, 
contrives,  with  the  lady's  father,  some  means  by 
which  the  future  bridegroom  shall  be  introduced 
to  her.  After  this  one  interview  with  the  lady, 
who  is  probably  fourteen,  while  he  is  perhaps  a 
year  or  two  older,  his  father  asks  him  to  marry 
her,  which  is  mere  form,  for  if  he  refused  he 
would  be  obliged.  Having  consented,  his  father 
prepares  a  splendid  present  for  the  bride  elect, 
which  is  sent  in  the  son's  name,  and  a  return 
made  in  the  form  of  a  bouquet  of  white  flowers. 
All  now  is  arranged,  and  the  two  fathers  having 
fixed  a  day,  invite  all  their  friends  to  meet  them 
at  the  principal  temple  of  the  town  in  which  the 
parties  reside,  and  preparations  are  instantly  com- 
menced for  the  ceremonies  attendant  upon  the 
occasion.  On  the  morning  of  the  eventful  day, 
the  bridegroom,  attired  with  great  splendour,  is 
conveyed  in  an  open  palanquin  to  the  bride's 
house,  attended  by  his  father,  mother,  and  all  his 
relatives  and  friends.  Arrived  there,  the  house 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.          249 

is  found  covered  with  blue  hangings,  the  doors 
being  concealed  by  a  heavy  drapery.  The  youth 
alights,  and  accompanied  by  two  friends,  ap- 
proaches the  hidden  door :  the  first  friend  ad- 
dresses the  unseen  inmates  of  the  building,  but 
receives  no  answer.  The  second  friend  does  the 
same  with  a  like  result,  and  the  bridegroom 
advances  to  the  door,  which  he  commands  them 
to  open.  No  attention  is  paid,  and  so,  drawing 
a  sharp  weapon,  the  youth  cuts  down  the  drapery. 
As  it  falls  numberless  servants  rushjout  at  a  trot, 
escorting  a  closed  palanquin,  in  which  is  the  bride 
and  her  mother.  This  draws  up  at  the  side  of 
the  youth's  conveyance,  which  he  has  already  re- 
entered.  The  door  of  the  posei-dal  is  slid  back, 
and  the  bride's  mother  comes  forth  and  stands  by 
it,  where  she  is  joined  by  the  father  and  nearest 
relations,  and  by  the  parents  of  the  bridegroom. 
The  lady  is  now  handed  forth  to  the  sound  of 
trumpets,  and  is  placed  by  the  side  of  her  future 
husband,  her  features  and  person  completely  con- 
cealed by  an  impenetrable  veil. 

The  whole  party  now  proceeds  to  the  great 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  where  they  are  received  by 
the  priests  and  choristers,  who  escort  them  to  the 
high  altar.  The  bride  and  bridegroom  are  seated 
before  the  dais,  while  a  chaunt  is  sung,  and  an 
address  made  to  the  Sun  by  the  principal  officia- 


250         DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS 

tor.  Offerings  are  then  made  to  the  temple  by 
the  parents,  and  the  bridegroom  presents  a  scroll, 
— and  a  duplicate  of  it, — by  which  the  nearest 
magistrate  permits  the  marriage.  Both  of  these 
certificates  are  sanctified  by  the  priest's  signature 
or  mark ;  one  is  returned  to  the  presenter,  and  the 
other  is  placed  in  the  cabinet,  behind  the  Vase  of 
Sacrifice,  after  having  been  fumigated  and  read 
aloud.  The  bride  is  then  borne  off  to  her  parent's 
house,  where  she  remains  for  three  days. 

After  dark,  on  the  evening  of  the  third  day, 
she  is  conveyed,  veiled  as  before,  to  the  bride- 
groom's residence,  attended  by  numerous  servants 
of  both  sexes,  carrying  her  wardrobe,  and  lighted 
torches.  Arrived  at  her  destination,  she  finds 
the  Uthirb-il-athl  lit  up,  and  the  whole  portico 
thronged  with  domestics  Nbearing  lights.  She 
descends  from  her  palanquin,  and  is  received  by 
the  bridegroom's  mother.  Followed  by  all  the 
females  of  the  household,  she  moves  toward  the 
Evoridua,  where  she  finds  her  husband  seated 
alone  on  the  Tarim-ilathl,  while  soft  music  is  heard 
proceeding  from  an  unseen  band  of  musicians. 
She  advances  to  the  dais,  and  pauses  at  its  foot, — 
the  females  form  a  semicircle  round  her, — the 
mother  comes  up  behind  the  bride  and  unfasten- 
ing the  veil  at  the  crown  of  her  head,  it  falls  to 
the  floor,  displaying  the  lady  clad  in  a  splendid 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.          251 

pavisa  of  white,  richly  embroidered  in  gold.  Re- 
newed bursts  of  music  fill  the  air,  and  the  females 
all  retire  to  partake  of  a  collation,  leaving  the 
young  couple  together. 

Such  are  the  simple  ceremonies  of  marriage ; 
those  attending  the  birth  of  an  infant  come  next 
on  the  list/ 

These  do  not  commence  until  the  day  after  the 
birth.  Before  sunrise,  the  Egarathon  of  the  man- 
sion is  filled  with  guests  of  both  sexes.  As  the 
very  first  beams  of  the  sun  light  the  room,  the 
father  of  the  child  enters,  and  the  mother  is 
brought  in  upon  a  couch.  A  heavy  curtain  which 
has  concealed  the  entrance  to  the  Evoridua,  is 
now  swept  aside,  and  all  the  servants  of  the 
family  come  in,  bearing  different  comestibles,  and 
followed  by  the  Ulvamathalr,  the  eldest  of  whom 
carries  a  large  golden  dish  on  which  lies  the  child 
covered  with  a  white  cloth.  All  these  are  clad 
with  the  greatest  splendor,  and  move  to  the  sound 
of  music.  The  father  advances,  removes  the 
cloth,  and  taking  the  child  in  his  hands,  carries 
it  round  to  each  of  the  company,  followed  by  the 
principal  Ulvamathal  bearing  the  golden  dish,  on 
which  the  visitors  place  all  sorts  of  little  trinkets 
and  toys,  for  the  child's  use  when  it  shall  grow 
older.  The  baby  is  then  carried  off,  and  the 


252          DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

whole  party  removes  to  the  Ovvaidon  to  break- 
fast. 

Three  days  after  this  <  Parade  of  the  Child,'  it 
is  taken  to  a  temple  and  named,  with  comparative 
privacy,  no  one  being  present  save  the  parents 
and  closest  connections.  In  case  of  the  ill  health 
of  the  infant,  the  priest  comes  to  the  father's  house 
and  there  performs  the  ceremony,  which  consists 
merely  in  fumigating  the  baby  over  a  Vase  of 
Sacrifice,  and  pronouncing  the  name, — which  the 
parents  wish  to  bestow  upon  it, — four  times,  once 
to  the  north,  the  south,  the  east,  and  the  west. 

There  is  but  little  ceremony  attending  the 
burial  of  the  dead.  As  soon  as  a  person  dies,  the 
body  is  surrendered  to  the  embalmists,  who,  in 
thirty  days,  return  it  to  the  family.  It  is  then 
placed  upon  a  high  couch  or  table,  and  for  seventy- 
two  hours  is  surrounded  by  the  women  of  the 
house,  who, — in  the  eastern  manner, — beat  their 
breasts,  tear  their  hair,  rend  their  garments  and 
utter  horrific  yells.  This  having  been  performed 
to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties  concerned,  the 
embalmed  body, — which  bears  the  exact  appear- 
ance of  life, — is  placed  in  an  open  palanquin,  and 
conveyed  by  night  through  the  streets,  attendee 
by  a  large  torchlight  procession,  to  the  walls, 
without  which  are  the  subterranean  excavations, 
appropriated  to  the  reception  of  the  dead.  The 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS.          253 

body  is  placed  in  its  upright  niche,  and  the  escort 
scampers  off  as  quick  as  it  is  able,  being  afraid 
to  remain  anytime  in  the  catacombs. 

Ned  and  I  visited  one  of  these  excavations 
tpward  the  end  of  October,  and  had  much  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  a  guide.  The  entrance  was 
about  a  hundred  yards  east  of  the  Coluca  Gate, 
and  consisted  of  a  flight  of  shallow  steps  leading 
down  some  thirty  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Lake 
of  Naloma.  A  turn  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs 
caused  us  to  face  the  west,  and  we  saw  the  im- 
mense subterranean  halls  and  corridors  excavated 
from  the  solid  rock,  and  reaching  a  full  half  mile 
in  a  straight  line.  Taking  the  central  hall,  we 
walked  the  entire  distance ;  throughout  it  was  of 
equal  height  and  breadth,  the  former  I  should  say 
twenty  feet,  the  latter  fifty.  The  walls  are  filled 
with  niches,  six  feet  high,  and  two  deep,  each  of 
which  contained  an  embalmed  body,  whose  name 
was  inscribed  on  a  tablet  over  the  niche,  as  well 
as  the  period  of  his  decease.  There  must  have 
been  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  mummies  in  that 
hall  alone,  which  was  the  principal,  as  on  each 
side  of,  and  running  parallel  with  it,  were  seven- 
teen other  corridors,  of  slightly  smaller  dimen- 
sions, and  the  same  length,  connected  by  numer- 
ous passages,  so  irregular  in  form  that  a  person, 
without  a  guide,  would  infallibly  be  lost.  Having 
13 


254         DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

reached  the  end  of  the  great  hall,  we  descended 
by  a  staircase,  thirty  feet  lower,  where  a  similar 
arrangement  presented  itself;  satisfying  ourselves 
with  a  glance,  we  ascended  to  the  upper  halls  and 
thence  to  the  open  air,  when  we  learnt  that  we 
had  visited  one  of  the  smallest  excavations  about 
Geral,  and  yet  this  hall  of  the  dead  must  have 
contained  at  least  500,000  bodies. 

From  Valaion's  work,  I  glean  that  the  immense 
number  of  bodies  embalmed  and  placed  in  these 
6  rock  halls'  was  caused  by  the  fact  of  the  early 
high  priests  of  the  Sun,  having  commanded  all 
the  dead  to  be  interred  in  close  proximity  to  the 
capital  city.  In  order  to  do  this,  those  who  resided 
at  a  distance  were  obliged  to  embalm  their  dead 
to  convey  them  to  the  designated  spot,  where 
they  of  course  were  seen  by  the  Geralians. 
These,  struck  with  the  strong  resemblance  existing 
between  the  mummy  and  the  former  appearance 
of  the  man,  gradually  adopted  embalming,  until 
it  has  become  general.  For  one  hundred  and 
twenty-four  years,  every  one  who  died  in  the 
valley  was  mummified  and  en-niched  in  these  ex- 
cavations around  the  capital ;  but  it,  at  length, 
became  inconvenient  from  the  great  number  of 
cities,  and  the  vastness  of  population,  so  that  the 
Inca  Huayna  Evora,  before  mentioned  in  this 
book,  decreed  an  excavation  to  every  city  in  its 


DOMESTIC  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS-          255 

own  environs,  in  consequence  of  which,  there  is 
absolutely  no  necessity  now  for  embalmists,  but 
the  practice  is  nevertheless  continued.  The  edict 
was  promulgated  in  1655,  according  to  our  chro- 
nology. Huayna  Evora  died  in  1661. 


256 


CHAPTER  V. 

Pastoral  Life. 

AFTER  so  long  a  chapter  on  perhaps  but  an  unin- 
teresting subject  to  most  of  my  readers,  they 
will  doubtless  be  glad  to  leave  the  crowded 
thoroughfares  and  formal  usages  of  the  city,  and 
turn  to  the  ways  of  life  high  on  the  overlooking 
hills  and  mountains,  or  far  away  on  the  plains  of 
the  valley. 

It  must  be  evident  to  any  one  who  has  read 
the  first  part  of  this  work,  that  I  personally  can 
know  but  little  of  Pastoral  Life,  as  when  I  passed 
through  the  country  it  was  in  the  escort  of  the 
Inca,  or  in  the  company  of  some  nobleman  of 
high  rank,  and  I  must  therefore  confess  that  most 
of  the  matter  in  this  chapter  is  drawn  from 
Valaion,  and,  principally,  from  Dapartesa.  I 
also  gathered  some  information  from  our  good 
friend  Cioaco,  the  Curaga  of  Ocopaltepec,  who, 
perhaps  is  as  worthy  an  authority  as  either  of  the 
above  named,  from  his  having  spent  a  great  part 
of  his  life  on  his  estates,  some  miles  from  the 


PASTORAL  LIFE.  257 

capital,   mixing   with   the   country  people,   and 
knowing  much  in  regard  to  them. 

The  rural  population  of  the  Valley  is  estimated 
to  be  somewhere  in  the  neighbourhood  of  300,000, 
residing  principally  in  the  villages  and  small  ham- 
lets that  hang  on  the  terraces  of  the  mountains, 
or  are  scattered  near  the  large  cities,  while  but 
few,  comparatively  speaking,  reside  in  single 
houses,  for  fear  of  the  Lambys  and  other  wild 
tribes. 

The  country  people  are  divided  into  two  gene- 
ral classes,  farmers,  and  tenders  of  llamas.  The 
former  cultivate  the  immense  plantations  that 
belong  to  the  state,  and  transfer  the  produce  to 
the  magazines  of  the  department  in  which  they 
live.  The  second  class  is  also  divided  in  two 
parts,  the  true  llamaherds,  who  take  care  of  the 
precious  animals,  and  those  who  drive  them  to 
market,  or  lead  them  over  the  causeways  when 
loaded  with  merchandise;  while  both  of  these 
classes  are  subdivided  into  those  employed  by  the 
government,  and  those  paid  by  the  manufacturers 
of  woollen  cloth. 

The  females  of  the  families  over  twelve  years 
of  age  have  a  certain  portion  of  spinning  to  do 
for  the  woollen  and  cotton  factories  belonging  to 
the  government,  for  which  they  are  paid  by  the 
head  of  the  tenth  family,  (see  Chap.  I.),  who  is 
13* 


258  PASTORAL  LIFE. 

re-emburscd  by  the  state.  Under  the  above  age, 
the  children  are  sent  to  the  district  schools,  one 
of  which  is  appropriated  to  the  use  of  fifty  fami- 
lies; and  out  of  each  of  these  institutions  five 
male  scholars  are  annually  sent  to  the  capital  to 
enter  the  College  of  Amataus,  where  their  educa- 
tion is  carried  on  at  the  expense  of  the  Inca, 
while  an  equal  number  of  girls  are  also  sent  to  be 
educated  in  Geral.  When  the  boys  of  the  rural  pop- 
ulation attain  the  age  of  twelve,  aSioice  of  occupa- 
tion is  offered  them  by  the  resident  inspector ;  ex- 
cept to  the  eldest  son  of  every  family,  who  by  law 
follows  his  father's  employment.  The  younger 
sons  may  become  as  their  fathers,  may  enter  the 
army  as  private  soldiers,  learn  a  trade  in  the  near- 
csttown,  work  in  the  mines  or  public  works,  or 
seek  employment  as  servants  in  the  cities  of  the 
Valley:  in  every  case  being  assisted  by  the  gov- 
ernment. 

The  eldest  son,  for  three  years  is  employed  by 
the  various  manufactories  in  snaring  birds  for  the 
making  of  the  beautiful  plumage  tapestry,  and  in 
other  ways  rendering  himself  useful,  until  his 
fifteenth  birthday,  when  he  is  considered  by  the 
government  in  the  same  light  as  his  father. 

The  occupation  of  a  farmer  on  the  level  of  the 
valley  is  severe  work,  from  the  great  heat,  but  on 


PASTORAL  LIFE.  259 

the  terraces  it  is  much  cooler,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, those  who  work  half  the  year  on  the  val- 
ley, for  the  other  half  cultivate  the  mountain 
side,  and  vice  versa.  This  arrangement  is  condu- 
cive to  health  from  the  change  of  air,  and  to  good 
labour  from  the  effect  of  this  change. 

The  llamaherds  never  visit  the  terraces  profes- 
sionally, except  when  driving  the  animals  with 
merchandise,  or  to  market,  their  dwellings  being 
on  the  top  plateau,  and  their  range  between  that 
and  the  perpetual  snow  line  of  the  Sierra  Paricis. 
The  wages  of  these  people  are  very  good,  and 
added  to  those  which  their  families  receive  for 
spinning,  are  sufficient  to  support  them  very  com- 
fortably. An  occasional  employment,  which  I 
am  about  to  describe,  is  very  profitable,  from  the 
receipts  being  entirely  their  own,  and  always 
attainable  by  manual  labour. 

To  every  herd  of  a  thousand  llamas  seven  men 
are  attached,  and  each  thousand  has  a  peculiar 
mark  by  which  their  drivers  can  recognize  their 
charges  in  any  part  of  the  Valley,  and  they  are 
so  marked  in  order  to  render  possible  the  separa- 
tion of  two  or  more  flocks  that  may  have  become 
intermingled.  When  they  feel  industrious,  or 
when  their  finances  are  at  a  low  ebb,  the  tenders 
of  a  dozen  herds  meet  together,  and  dividing  into 
two  equal  portions,  one  part  is  left  to  take  care 


260  PASTORAL  LIFE. 

of  the  united  flocks,  while  each  of  the  remaining 
half  procures  a  Lalama,  (see  Chap.  II.),  with  ten 
or  twelve  Jlamas  harnessed  to  it.  The  whole 
party,  numbering  perhaps  thirty  or  forty,  then 
starts,  armed  with  large  cutting  instruments,  for 
one  of  the  frozen  lakes  or  rain  pools  high  up  in 
the  glaciers  of  the  mountains.  Having  selected 
a  suitable  one,  they  clear  it  of  all  new  fallen  snow, 
rapidly  cut  out  large  blocks,  and  pack  them  in 
the  lalamas.  As  soon  as  the  party  lias  procured 
all  that  it  can,  the  llamas  are  reharnessed  to  the 
well  loaded  vehicles,  and  the  cold  regions  of  the 
*  hard  water,'  (the  translation  of  the  name  they 
give  ice,)  are  deserted  for  the  nearest  city,  where 
the  contents  of  the  lalamas  are  sold  at  a  high 
price  to  the  nobles,  who  are  glad  enough  to  get 
it  to  cool  their  chocolatl  and  other  drinks.  Snow 
is  regularly  brought  to  Geral  for  the  same  pur- 
pose, as  it  is  easy  of  access,  being  almost  within 
the  city ;  but  it  is  not  of  much  use,  as  it  melts  too 
quickly.  The  principal  consumption  of  it  in  the 
Capital,  is  in  packing  the  ice,  it  being  supposed 
to  prevent  the  latter  from  turning  into  'soft 
water,'  an  effect  much  to  be  desired,  but  not 
attained  in  that  way. 

I  cannot  remember  whether  or  no,  I  mentioned 
in  the  first  part  of  this  work,  the  fact  of  wine, — 
or  a  description  of  it, — being  manufactured  in 


PASTORAL  LIFE.  261 

small  quantities  for  the  use  of  the  wealthy.  For 
fear  I  did  not,  I  will  run  the  risk  of  repeating 
the  account.  There  are  but  two  factories  in  the 
valley,  one  in  the  Atolatepec, — the  largest  and 
most  prolific, — the  other  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Huaxtepec  within  the  walls  of  Geral.  The 
annual  product  of  both  these  vineyards  does  not 
exceed  two  hundred  gallons,  which  is  divided  into 
three  equal  portions,  one  for  the  Inca,  another  for 
such  nobles  as  he  may  designate,  and  the  third 
for  the  High  Priest  of  the  Sun,  whose  agents  sell 
it  at  immense  prices  to  any  one  who  can  afford  to 
buy  it.  Orteguilla  named  Ned  and  I  among  the 
recipients  of  the  second  third  in  the  distribution, 
each  of  us  being  presented  with  four  bottles,  if  I 
may  so  term  earthen  jars  with  narrow  necks,  hold- 
ing about  three  pints.  Cioaco  sent  us  two  others 
from  his  share,  thinking  we  had  not  received  any ; 
we  wished  to  return  it,  but  he  obliged  us  to  keep 
it,  and  I  brought  mine  home  with  me,  besides 
three  that  I  had  not  opened  out  of  the  Inca's  pre- 
sents. 

It  is  made  of  a  black  grape,  and  is  exceedingly 
sweet  and  luscious,  so  much  so  that  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  dilute  it  with  water,  in  order  to  render 
it  palatable.  When  first  poured  out,  it  is  of  a  dark 
red  colour,  but  if  allowed  to  stand,  becomes  pale 
pink,  while  a  jar  that  I  opened  in  July,  1849,  was 


262  PASTORAL  LIFE. 

quite  yellow,  something  like  sherry,  so  that  I  almost 
thought  I  had  a  different  sort ;  the  taste,  however, 
was  nearly  the  same,  though  unquestionably  im- 
proved by  keeping.  The  vineyards  are  kept  beauti- 
fully, on  a  plan  similar  to  the  Italian,  growing  on 
horizontal  lattice  work,  and  very  cool  and  shady. 
That  on  the  Huaxtepec  was  used  as  a  promenade 
by  the  Inca  and  nobles  of  the  highest  rank ;  both 
are  under  the  direction  of  an  officer,  and  such 
care  is  taken  of  them,  that  there  is  a  man  for 
every  thirty  plants,  paid  from  the  Inca's  private 
purse. 


263 


Reader : — 

I  plead  guilty  to  the  charge  of  an  unallowably 
abrupt  conclusion,  and  feel  bound  to  account  for 
this  dereliction  of  duty  as  well  as  I  may. 

While  writing  these  few  supplementary  chap- 
ters, I  have  become  more  and  more  aware  of  my 
incapacity  to  continue,  with  any  accuracy,  my 
accounts  of  private  life,  or  to  make  any  investi- 
gations regarding  the  working  of  numerous  insti- 
tutions, whose  very  titles  are  unmentioned  in  the 
foregoing  pa^es,  being  known  to  me  scarcely  but 
by  name.  In  my  Supplement,  I  have  given  as 
clear  an  insight,  as  I  am  now  able,  into  domestic 
manners,  and  am  sure,  that  in  carrying  out  my 
original  plan  for  this  volume,  I  should  fail  to  do 
justice  either  to  my  subject  or  to  myself. 

It  is  my  present  intention  to  revisit,  at  some 
close  period,  the  Valley  of  the  Incas,  and  make 
a  longer  stay  than  I  was  able  to  do  in  184T,  the 
only  drawback  being  my  want  of  companionship, 
my  good  friend  Grey  being  unwilling  to  leave 
home  for  another  long  absence  in  a  foreign  land. 


264  CONCLUSION. 

But  rather  than  abandon  my  project,  I  would 
journey  alone,  in  which  manner  it  is  more  than 
probable  that  I  shall  be  obliged  to  travel. 

A.  R.  MIDDLETOUN  PAYNE. 


Rambles  in  Brazil 


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